I’ll give you $300 for as is. Lol
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Frustrated with my Kimber 84m Hunter
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Originally posted by kkp005 View PostThanks for the input guys. I've got a lot of money tied up in this thing which makes fighting the accuracy issues frustrating.
I took it home today to clean and did come across something. When setting the end of the gun barrel down against my carpet to drop in a bore snake I noticed a lot of play / wobble between the stock and barrel/receiver. Upon further inspection
I discovered the hex head screw on the rear (torques up the stock to the action) was very loose. Once I tightened it up there wasn't any play. We will see what she does tomorrow if the weather cooperates and I can get some more Ammo.
I was reading and going to suggest using a torque screwdriver in the screws holding the action to the stock. My Tikka T3 would ‘wander’ 3 shot groups going up and left each time. After tightening to factory torque it drove tacks.
Use a torque screwdriver, great sub $50 investment if you don’t already have one. I bought the Wheeler scope mounting kit for around $100.
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Sounds like you found the culprit! I'd ditch the lead sled as well. They can be really hard on optics, especially so on light weights. Not to mention your POI will likely be quite different when you are shooting in actual field positions.
Rifles under 7 pounds generally require a different technique as compared to the semi free recoil method most shooters use with standard or heavy barreled hunting rigs off the bench. Most light weights will respond much better by gripping the forearm and applying a little downward pressure. It doesn't need to be a white knuckle death grip, just some firm consistent pressure. Some of my most accurate rifles are really thin barreled light weights that are a joy to carry. A few can hang with my heavy barreled comp rigs, they are just a lot harder to drive
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Frustrated with my Kimber 84m Hunter
Originally posted by Stick1 View PostSounds like you found the culprit! I'd ditch the lead sled as well. They can be really hard on optics, especially so on light weights. Not to mention your POI will likely be quite different when you are shooting in actual field positions.
Rifles under 7 pounds generally require a different technique as compared to the semi free recoil method most shooters use with standard or heavy barreled hunting rigs off the bench. Most light weights will respond much better by gripping the forearm and applying a little downward pressure. It doesn't need to be a white knuckle death grip, just some firm consistent pressure. Some of my most accurate rifles are really thin barreled light weights that are a joy to carry. A few can hang with my heavy barreled comp rigs, they are just a lot harder to drive
What Robert said!
Did you clean the bore at all before shooting?
Additionally I am close by, have private range and an extra scope if you need help sorting out some of the variablesLast edited by bboswell; 11-07-2017, 08:44 PM.
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Originally posted by kkp005 View PostShut up Roy toy. Hope all is well your way!
Can't help I'm left eye dominant.lol But hell I shot the gun left and right handed.
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Originally posted by trophy8 View PostA $1000+ rifle shouldn't have to be sent back to begin with. I've had a few that were hammers. A couple that were not very impressive to say the least.
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The only thing I can add is, you are probably getting barrel/stock contact. The effect would be magnified in a thin profile barrel. The action screw could definitely be the culprit so, I would find the torque specs and cinch it down accordingly.
I have a Rem M700 300 RUM that would should terribly. Same deal, 3"-4" groups at 100 yards. Was about ready to fling it in the brush when I decided to rip it all down and rebuild it at the range. I took off the scope to find the scope ring was bad. Called Leupold, they sent me a new one and it shoots 3/4 MOA readily.
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