Clocking left...fletched right

[Briar Friar]

Whilst paper tuning last night I got to noticing my cock vanes were clocking counter clockwise...where as Im tuning right helical feather fletched arrows.

Im arrow tuning to a recurve and am focusing/shooting left handed. The recurve I shoot is dual shelved and I shoot left and right handed off the same bow during my shooting sessions. My focus is left handed.

I have a left helical AZ EZ Fletch jig and think it might be appropriate to stsrt fletching left.

How are your arrows clocking? How are your arrows fletched?

[enewman]

Whilst paper tuning last night I got to noticing my cock vanes were clocking counter clockwise...where as Im tuning right helical feather fletched arrows.

Im arrow tuning to a recurve and am focusing/shooting left handed. The recurve I shoot is dual shelved and I shoot left and right handed off the same bow during my shooting sessions. My focus is left handed.

I have a left helical AZ EZ Fletch jig and think it might be appropriate to stsrt fletching left.

How are your arrows clocking? How are your arrows fletched?

I have no clue for a recurve. But a compound 95% plus arrows clock left no matter right hand or left hand. Now question does is matter. I say no.

When shot the vanes are causing drag just as soon as shot. So depending on offset and speed how far an arrow travels before it starts rotating. So if you match clocking it only means it will start turning a few ft sooner.

[Briar Friar]

I have no clue for a recurve. But a compound 95% plus arrows clock left no matter right hand or left hand. Now question does is matter. I say no.

When shot the vanes are causing drag just as soon as shot. So depending on offset and speed how far an arrow travels before it starts rotating. So if you match clocking it only means it will start turning a few ft sooner.

Thanks Enewman.

Watching longer distance flight pattern on these arrows, they seem to barrel roll a bit erratically. Maybe contact too.

I think I may be having my arrows working against themselves clocking left and fletched right.

[Low Fence]

An object in motion will stay in motion.

Once the fletching starts the “spin” the clocking has zero influence unless that arrow stays in flight so long and so slow that it stops spinning.

My OPINION is it’s overthought and will have no shootable difference Again my opinion

[Briar Friar]

An object in motion will stay in motion.

Once the fletching starts the “spin” the clocking has zero influence unless that arrow stays in flight so long and so slow that it stops spinning.

My OPINION is it’s overthought and will have no shootable difference Again my opinion

Thank you for your opinion.

I truly believe it is an energy drain. Spending energy left to only spend/rob/expend more energy to come back right. The energy is focusing forward whilst in flight but there is still lateral and centripetal movement and energy being expended.

My thought is that I should complement the expended left clocking energy by fletching left versus detracting energy by allowing it to go back right with right fletchings.

[enewman]

Thank you for your opinion.

I truly believe it is an energy drain. Spending energy left to only spend/rob/expend more energy to come back right. The energy is focusing forward whilst in flight but there is still lateral and centripetal movement and energy being expended.

My thought is that I should complement the expended left clocking energy by fletching left versus detracting energy by allowing it to go back right with right fletchings.

Do you have a thought on how to test.

I would think since the average shot is 20 yards for hunting. If we took two arrows made sure they clocked to the left. Then fletched one right other left and shot it through a chrono and see if there is a speed difference. I would think it would need to be more then 5 fps difference to mean anything at all. But that is just a number I’m looking at.

Then shoot them both at 50 yards and look at the group between the two. If it truly is using less energy then it should always be above the other arrow. I would think or for me the one matching the clocking shaft would need to be at least 90% above the other arrow at around 10 group shots.

Just me looking at it.

For me to have to change my arrows to match would cost me $35 in a new clamp and could $100 to replace my broadheads to left bevel.


But I’m all for testing.

[Briar Friar]

Do you have a thought on how to test.

I would think since the average shot is 20 yards for hunting. If we took two arrows made sure they clocked to the left. Then fletched one right other left and shot it through a chrono and see if there is a speed difference. I would think it would need to be more then 5 fps difference to mean anything at all. But that is just a number I’m looking at.

Then shoot them both at 50 yards and look at the group between the two. If it truly is using less energy then it should always be above the other arrow. I would think or for me the one matching the clocking shaft would need to be at least 90% above the other arrow at around 10 group shots.

Just me looking at it.

For me to have to change my arrows to match would cost me $35 in a new clamp and could $100 to replace my broadheads to left bevel.


But I’m all for testing.

I cogitated all day on how to test. The easiest thing I could think of was a penetration test...being that is my ultimate goal.

I thought about chrono too but am without a chrono.

I like the 50 yd test... But I think Im too variable of a shooter at those distances.

Rick Barbee has done alot of penetration tests I could copy.

[enewman]

I cogitated all day on how to test. The easiest thing I could think of was a penetration test...being that is my ultimate goal.

I thought about chrono too but am without a chrono.

I like the 50 yd test... But I think Im too variable of a shooter at those distances.

Rick Barbee has done alot of penetration tests I could copy.

The only media I’ve came up this tomtest is sand. It’s hard on arrows but it will show you penetration. The cheep way is to go by 4 bags of 50lbs bags. And just set them in front of each other. And tight. Then get some blue painters tape. Just tape over hole on first bag. As long as bags are tight together you lose very little sand from the other bags.

Other way is to build a box 2’hx2’wx3’d. Cut a 12”x12” window and place cardboard over it. Fix it so when you replace the cardboard sand don’t run out.

[enewman]

sand box

[Briar Friar]

The only media I’ve came up this tomtest is sand. It’s hard on arrows but it will show you penetration. The cheep way is to go by 4 bags of 50lbs bags. And just set them in front of each other. And tight. Then get some blue painters tape. Just tape over hole on first bag. As long as bags are tight together you lose very little sand from the other bags.

Other way is to build a box 2’hx2’wx3’d. Cut a 12”x12” window and place cardboard over it. Fix it so when you replace the cardboard sand don’t run out.

Nice. Thank you for the drawing and layout Enewman.

After Im done FLOing my barehsafts Im gonna fletch some left and paper tune then test. Im going crosseyed from staring at laser trails.