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    #31
    Think circle ...it looks like you are ONLY bending in the fades and not hardly bending anywhere else...one trick is to take a pictire and then use a quarter as a guide..so scrape scrapescrape.check tiller ..take the pic and check that against the quarter..the limbs should follow the edge of the quarter ...clear as mid...and make a tillering gizmo (thats the name of it),, google that...that little tool will help.

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      #32
      And give yourself about 4 to 6 inches from the nocks to fades that are stiffer than the rest of the limb...always excercise the bow between scraping ..that will help keep string follow down slightly

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        #33
        At the risk of sounding like a dumbs#:, what are the fades?
        Originally posted by 4dog View Post
        Think circle ...it looks like you are ONLY bending in the fades and not hardly bending anywhere else...one trick is to take a pictire and then use a quarter as a guide..so scrape scrapescrape.check tiller ..take the pic and check that against the quarter..the limbs should follow the edge of the quarter ...clear as mid...and make a tillering gizmo (thats the name of it),, google that...that little tool will help.
        Sent from my LG-M150 using Tapatalk

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          #34
          Originally posted by Ronnie View Post
          At the risk of sounding like a dumbs#:, what are the fades?

          Sent from my LG-M150 using Tapatalk
          I mean it seems to me that the "fades " would be the taper. I tapered this one from the grip all the way to the ends.

          Sent from my LG-M150 using Tapatalk

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            #35
            Where the riser fades into the limbs.

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              #36
              Zactly ^^^^ handle then where it "fades " into the the actual limb ...it looks like you are thinking that is where all the action of the bow happens ..so it looks like that is where you are concentrating on the bend..in reality ..the limb starts to bend in that area and progresses out towards the tips ..so..slight bend in fades then more so as you go out and then gradual slow down 4 to 6 inches from the actual nock

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                #37
                There is a ton of info on youtube ...and many sites devoted to selfbows ..primitive archer comes to mind but there are many others.

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                  #38
                  The "taper" is the shape of the bow looking from the back and or belly ..the "fades is when your looking from the edge profile

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                    #39
                    Ronnie if you want to shorten the learning curve spend some money and come do a bow build with me and leave with a Osage selfbow. If you put any backing on it it's not a selfbow. Yes do not pull past intended draw weight. Yes your outer limbs was to heavy. Oak board bows are want to be bows. Only good to practice tiller on. Set is caused by crushing of the belly fibers in the wood. Causing shock. excessive mass of any kind causes shock. Fades are the transition between handle area and limbs. I Started much just like you . If you are bit-by the bug find $600 and come see me. Or go to OJAM next march . By the time you buy the gas and a stave you could have done the bow build with me though. Good luck with your bow builds and most of all have fun doing it. Arvin
                    Last edited by Selfbowman; 06-08-2018, 04:30 AM.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by 4dog View Post
                      ...and make a tillering gizmo (thats the name of it),, google that...that little tool will help.
                      I agree, that is why I suggested it earlier. We didn't call it a "gizmo" back in PA but I like that. It really works when new to building bows. Some people have a hard time seeing a bend vs a flat spot. Using that takes the guess work out.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Selfbowman View Post
                        Ronnie if you want to shorten the learning curve spend some money and come do a bow build with me and leave with a Osage selfbow. If you put any backing on it it's not a selfbow. Yes do not pull past intended draw weight. Yes your outer limbs was to heavy. Oak board bows are want to be bows. Only good to practice tiller on. Set is caused by crushing of the belly fibers in the wood. Causing shock. excessive mass of any kind causes shock. Fades are the transition between handle area and limbs. I Started much just like you . If you are bit-by the bug find $600 and come see me. Or go to OJAM next march . By the time you buy the gas and a stave you could have done the bow build with me though. Good luck with your bow builds and most of all have fun doing it. Arvin
                        , and if the staves from jim in Mo. its worth it....

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                          #42
                          Selfbowman, did I meet you at the Shoot-Out? A man there told me about OJAM, was gonna meet him there but I lost my phone and his number.

                          Sent from my LG-M150 using Tapatalk

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                            #43
                            What shoot out? Pm me your phone and we can talk. Arvin

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by Selfbowman View Post
                              What shoot out? Pm me your phone and we can talk. Arvin


                              Vanderpool!!!! DUH!!!!

                              Bisch


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                                #45
                                Could have I went to vanderpool. Thanks Bisch. Mr know it all! Lol
                                Arvin

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