Originally posted by RJH1
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Rick
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The primary reason I want a bow to be cut to or past center is: it allows me to shoot a stiffer arrow, which translates to more of the bows energy being transferred to that arrow.
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Gary: First off: great to meet and visit with you yesterday at Cowtown.
Here's a close-up of my new hickory longbow's riser with an 11/32" arrow on the shelf. Shooting instinctive, real different sight picture needed, compared with center-cut recurve. I feel like brain has made the adjustment in less than a week and 300-400 arrows.
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Okay but I can shoot a long bow with field point decently. But I'm too frustrated to deal with trying to rune arrows for flight and sound. Not worth the frustration and effort at thus point in my journey.
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Rick hit the nail on the head.Originally posted by RJH1 View Post
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Need all that I can get.
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If you maintain form, brain can adjust to pretty much anything. Assuming instinctive aiming, short-of-center, center, past center, shouldn't matter; although spine flexibility may be limited, as Rick noted. I know that I can use the same 70-75 spine (11/32") cedar arrows in my 70# recurve as in my 90# longbow. Now, I use 400 spine carbons in the recurve, but 340s are needed for the heavier longbow.
For the record, I haven't chrono'd either bow with either sets of arrows, but it seems like speeds are similar among all these combinations (632-grains to 730-grains) mentioned above.Comment
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One thing I've noticed with every longbow I've shot. If I have a sloppy release it shows more than it does with my recurve. Not sure why and maybe it's just me. With you having that finger injury just something to keep in mind.Originally posted by DRT View PostComment
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Gary,Originally posted by DRT View Post
Just curious, isn't your Thunderchild cut past center? I had a Thunderchild and it was definitely cut past center.Comment
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No it's cut to center.Originally posted by caughtandhobble View Post
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The older TC's were only cut to center.
The newer ones are cut past center.
I'm not sure of how much past, but think I remember reading it is 1/8".
RickComment
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Something I think note worthy here is:
It takes very little change in center cut measurement of a bow to have a huge impact of the spine requirement for that bow.
An example of that is - when using an adjustable strike plate, that is moved via the use of turning a bolt in the berger button threaded hole:
I can visibly see differences in arrow flight, with as little as 1/4 of a turn/rotation of the bolt.
That is only changing the center position of the shaft 1/32", but it does make a noticeable/visible difference in arrow flight, and in down range lateral impact.
When only turning the bolt 1/8 turn/rotation, I normally can't actually visibly see a difference in arrow flight, but there is always a notable difference in lateral impact of the arrows.
Point is - a tiny bit of center cut position change goes a long way when tuning.
Even if you don't have a bolt to make the change, you can make those changes by thickening, or thinning your strike plate material. Of course you will be limited in adjustment depending on how far past center the bow is actually cut, but it can be done, and is a valuable process in your overall tuning process.
A side note to that is - if you are having to take the position of the arrow inside of center to get it to shoot, then it's way to stiff. Go the other way with it, and adjust spine of shaft and/or point weight to compensate.
I've always found the best arrow position for me to be "slightly" outside of center, but with some bows you just can't get that, and they hold the arrow well outside, so you have to resort to making arrow changes. On those bows, just get the arrow as close to center as you can, then make the changes in the arrow you need to get it flying, and impacting how/where you where you want it to.
Lets also not overlook - the diameter of the shaft changes it's position of center, so that too can be effectively used to get where you want/need to be "IF" you have the resources to do so, and don't mind experimenting with the diameters.
RickLast edited by RickBarbee; 02-28-2018, 08:39 AM.Comment
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You can get them cut any way you want them. At a lot of the shoots that I go to, if you shoot in LONGBOW class the shelf has to be at least 1/8" FROM center (not past center) and there are rules about riser width and length, also I think aimed at limiting center cut. Usually, wood arrows are also required.
You can shoot in MODERN LONGBOW class with center cut and any arrow material other than wood.
I have a dual shelf recurve (St. Charles Thunderbird) that is cut over 1/4" from center which requires a much weaker shaft. It is not a problem, just have to tune it accordingly. Probably not a good idea for a beginning trad shooter to tackle one like that. Much simpler to tune a bow that is cut to, or past center.Comment
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I'm just not willing to spend the time, money, effort and frustration to make this one work.
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What are you trying to make work?Comment
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