Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yellow St. Augustine grass

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Randy Lemmon says...

    Randy's Lawn Fertilization Schedule

    For southern grasses including: St. Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia

    FERTILIZE - four times a year:
    Late February-Early March - apply a simple 15-5-10 for an early green-up. Most companies that make slow-release fertilizers also make a non slow-release 15-5-10 that provides for a quick two-week green up before we get to the heart of the fertilizer schedule.

    WARNING: Some people will be tempted to use a weed-and-feed at this time, but if you've been following the GardenLine herbicide schedule, there should never be a need. However, spot weed-and-feed treatments are recommended for those with turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been established for many years. Most weed-and-feeds contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs.

    Late March-Early April - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
    Recommended formulations:
    19-4-10 Nitro Phos Super Turff
    18-4-6 Fertilome Southwest Greenmaker
    18-0-6 Fertilome's Zero Phosphate Formula
    15-5-10 Southwest Fertilizer Premium Gold
    20-0-10 Bonide Premium Lawn Food
    Late June-Early July - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
    (recommended formulations 19-5-9, 19-4-10, 18-4-6, 15-5-10.)

    October-November - apply winterizer formulas for winter hardiness. Ratios vary, but make sure they are "winter" or "fall" formulas designed for southern grasses.
    (examples: 18-6-12, 8-12-16, 10-5-14) Will make lawns winter-hardy.

    June-September - if turfgrass looks yellow (chlorosis) or necrotic, use an application of either granular or liquid iron. Once a year should be enough.

    FUNGICIDE - two times a year:
    July-September - Gray Leaf Spot is a blotchy spot on the grass blade leafs. (mostly on St. Augustine lawns) Use fungicides with active ingredients like Daconil, Consan or Banner.

    September-October - To control the dreaded Brownpatch fungal disease (symmetrical brown circles in the grass) you must prevent it from coming up with a systemic lawn fungicide with Bayleton, Terrachlor, Banner or Benomyl.

    HERBICIDE - three times a year:
    (Pre-Emergent controls to prevent weeds)
    Late October-Early November - Use two (2) different pre-emergent herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in February and March. First is a pre-emergent with Portrait or Gallery for broadleaf weeds like clover. Second, use a pre-emergent with Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan for grassy weeds like poa anna or annual bluegrass. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

    February-March - Use the pre-emergent controls for grassy weeds again, to prevent such weeds as Crabgrass, Goosegrass and Dallisgrass from popping up late in the spring and summer. Again, use the grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

    May-Early June - One more application of a grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan, or Treflan will keep fall weeds from invading from August on. There is also Barricade, Dimension-based or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

    INSECTICIDES — It is our belief on GardenLine, as a way to be kind to the environment, that you do not put down insecticides unless you know you have a problem. However, be prepared during the hot summer months — July through September — to attack chinch bug damage. This will show up as irregular shaped spots in the lawn along the concrete. Any liquid insecticide, like Permethrin or Cypermethrin, will treat the spot well. Then apply a granular insecticide like Deltamethrin or granular Permethrin in a broadcast applicator throughout the rest of the yard.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Codypatt1 View Post
      Dan is correct. This is Take all Root Rot. I would spread about an inch of peat moss immediately and use back side of leaf rack to spread it out evenly after tossing on the ground. Water it in and you’ll see results in a few days. It’s a messy job but it works.l, something to do with changing the ph level quickly causes the fungus to halt. Only thing I have found that works.
      Peat moss is acidic, so that will lower the pH of the soil. If the soil pH is over 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil. So adding the Peat moss is a win win if you have Alkaline soil. The Ironite won't hurt either. I will say, I have very, very Alkaline soil, and I never once had chlorosis when I had St. Augustine grass. I did have fungus issues, but I just let them run their course. Now I have fescue.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by shark79 View Post
        Iron deficiency?
        what he said give it iron! also lack of sunlight I see that it is between buildings.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by mastercraftka View Post
          what he said give it iron! also lack of sunlight I see that it is between buildings.
          Yup, being between buildings, lack of airflow could contribute to fungus issues. St. Augustine does well in shade, but has to have at least 5-6 hours of sunlight.

          Comment


            #20
            Put some ironite on it.

            Comment


              #21
              Bump for verdict

              Comment


                #22
                ttt

                Comment


                  #23
                  It could be the compost you put on the yard, top dressing/manure. As compost decomposes it will pull the nitrogen from you ground and cause yellowing, also compost should not be put on in the hot time of the year, you should spread in late fall or early spring for best results.....I would use a fertilizer with 20% nitrogen, (Nitrophos or EasyGro 19-5-10), and your grass should green up quickly.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Spread some peat moss on it. Mine was looking this way. I put peat down and now it’s looking better.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Im surprised no body asked what kind of manure. Different manures from differnt critters contain higher amounts of minerals than others...eg...cow manure is high in sodium, etc....which will increase your soil pH level and make it more alkaline....making certain nutrients unavailable for uptake.

                      Since it looks like there is a thick bed...Id say you have enough sunlight. Since the yellowing is not consistent throughout the old and new leaves...not fungus. Since the yellowing appears to be on the new growth and old growth is dark green and iron is an immobile nutrient (cant take from old leaves and give to new leaves...like nitrogen)... I concur with iron chlorosis. Apply Ironite.
                      Last edited by Briar Friar; 07-11-2018, 11:37 AM. Reason: UptakeSpake

                      Comment


                        #26
                        The manure you used could have a weed killer in it, when farmers spray their hay to kill unwanted grass/weeds, then feed it to cows/horses the weed killer can move through the animal with the manure then spreading out that manure could cause grass die off...

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Post a close-up of the leaf blade and stolon (runner) or better yet take the same to your local ag extension. Could be fungal or simply new grass filling in.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Mine looked just like this, I put iron on it and dark green again.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I put ironite on it. Looks worse than ever now.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Fungicide, pouring fertilizer to it will make it worse. Just get a sprayer that fits on hose and use st augustine compatible fungicide concentrate

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X