Want to learn machining

[kmitchl]

Oh yeah, forgot about drills. What about HSS tools?

HSS drills work well for most applications. I use a lot of carbide but there are also indexable turning inserts in HSS available. I use carbide because the last lathe I bought the seller threw in about 30# of carbide inserts and toolholders.

[Scoobyh]

HSS drills are fine. For cutting tools I would definitely go with inserted carbide. A little more cost upfront but will pay off. You can get a grade and chip breaker that will do a wide range of materials. I'm probably a little to far from you, but I have a shop full of machines and some scrap material if you would like to do some learning.

Scott

[GrapeApe]

a couple of Nogas, dial indicators, coolant/oils, emery paper, deburring tools, a few decent rules, spend the cash on a good set of real american or german twist drills, a set of left hand twist drills is a lifesaver in my shop, acme threading tools, magnifying lenses of all types come in handy, live centers, telescoping hole gauges, pin gauges, boring bars from .025 to 1.5 inch shank

i use insert tooling, brazed carbide and ground HSS

this is what I used just this week in addition to what is listed above.

[txfireguy2003]

Dang, I know so little I don't even know what I don't know!

[Graysonhogs]

Dang, I know so little I don't even know what I don't know!

There are enough machinists here that you have plenty of backup.


I think we all agree, you never stop learning in this trade.

[Goldeneagle]

There are enough machinists here that you have plenty of backup.


I think we all agree, you never stop learning in this trade.

This ^^^^^. There are still things I learn even after 40yrs of it.

[GrapeApe]

I consider myself a relative idiot when it comes to machining. I learn a dozen new things a week, honestly.

[txfireguy2003]

Seems like there is a hundred different ways to do most things too. For example, I've seen guys drill holes on the lathe, and I've seen them bore holes. Just last night I saw a guy on YouTube facing a part with what I would call a turning tool based on geometry, by turning his tool post 90 degrees and coming at it from the end. Maybe not the RIGHT way, but it got the job done, and his finish looked good. I even saw a guy chambering a Remington 700 barrel, and when he did the relief cut for the bolt nose, he started it with an end mill, then finished it with a boring bar, whereas others might have single point cut that relief.

[Lungbustr]

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I bought me a mill and have done a whole bunch of ar receivers and have been just learning as I go. Planning on putting a dro on it pretty soon. I think for the next projects I am going to get started on is 1911's.

I'll tell you one thing, it will keep you busy and broke. I can't seem to keep my hands off the **** thing.

In the future I plan on buying a lathe to do the same type projects you are wanting one for. I figure you might as well dive on in head first and start learning.

[Younggun1996]

That's what I'm going to school for, It's fun stuff!!!

[Goldeneagle]

Seems like there is a hundred different ways to do most things too. For example, I've seen guys drill holes on the lathe, and I've seen them bore holes. Just last night I saw a guy on YouTube facing a part with what I would call a turning tool based on geometry, by turning his tool post 90 degrees and coming at it from the end. Maybe not the RIGHT way, but it got the job done, and his finish looked good. I even saw a guy chambering a Remington 700 barrel, and when he did the relief cut for the bolt nose, he started it with an end mill, then finished it with a boring bar, whereas others might have single point cut that relief.

You need to bore holes for close tolerances and/or a smooth finish. As far as facing and turning with the same tool, that's how we run day in and day out. With our tooling we don't turn the tool. Just face and turn. The hole that started out with an end mill probably needed to be flat bottom, so an end mill is a good way to get a hole with a flat bottom started.

[Goldeneagle]

That's what I'm going to school for, It's fun stuff!!!

You going to TSTC? I've known quite a few that went there.

[txfireguy2003]

So, after looking on Craigslist last night for several hours, I may end up buying a used machine. Many of them seem to come with his usable tooling, and much cheaper than a new machine. Of course, they are going to have some wear, but hopefully not too much. I'm still not quite ready to jump in head over heels, maybe in a couple months I'll start looking real serious. I saw a South Bend Heavy 10 out of a HS shop up for sale for $2500 with the stand/cabinet and some tooling iirc. Also a full machine shop setup (albeit Asian machines) for the price of the lathe alone and that one had a mill, surface grinder, mill/lathe combo machine, and a 12x36 lathe and what appeared to be a ton of tooling still in sealed packaging.

[kmitchl]

On used lathes look for way wear near the headstock. That is the area most frequently used. Also check the spindle bore on a SB heavy 10. Check the chuck mounting. I don't care for threaded chucks. They are well known for getting stuck on the spindle and can't be turned backwards because they will unscrew. My preference is D1-4 or D1-5. Just a few things to be aware of.

I use a quick change tool post and make some of my own tool holders. The one I use most frequently is a carbide insert tool older with one end set up for turning and one end set up for facing. To go from turning to facing I just move the tool over to the other position on the QCTP. Aloris QCTP are nice but the Phase II stuff works for me. Look at CDCO and Shars for "cost effective" tooling.

[txfireguy2003]

That all makes sense. Except I can't figure out the wear on the ways. I mean, seems to me that it would take a ton of work to wear the ways enough to be of concern. I mean like millions of turning passes, but maybe I'm overestimating.