I posted this on another sire and thought this may help somebody over here. Please feel free to add any tips or suggestions that may help someone down the road. I will try to answer any questions that may come up, if I don't have answer one of the pros will hook you up.
-Start off with the bow at mid range recommended brace height.
-Check on 3 Rivers or Stu's arrow spine calculator for a starting point. Both are the same, and if fed the correct information they will be very close.
-Set nocking point higher than needed and tune for up and down arrow flight first using bare shaft tuning or paper tuning. If using bare shaft tuning, the bare shaft results must be compared to the fletched shaft (Adcock's Tuning). The Adcock tuning can be found at A&H web site under tuning. If your bare shaft hits below the fletched arrows the string nock needs to be lowered, if high raise nock point.
-Always use two string nock points. I like to tie on my string nocks, use a material that is a least the same size as your serving material. The same size or larger nock material will prevent your serving from spreading and causing damage to your string.
-After your up and down is set, it's time to fine tune your dynamic spine. Once again using Adcock's tuning... Right hand shooters, a weak spine will be shown by the bare shaft hitting to the right of the fletched arrow and a stiff spine will hit to the left of the fletched arrow. Shoot several groups to make sure your results are consistent.
-For a slightly stiff spine you can increase your point weight or increase your brace height (among other things).
-For a slightly weak spine you can decrease your point weight or decrease your brace height. For a weak dynamic spine you can also add an extra set of string silencers to your string. You can also add to the side plate (among other things).
-After bare shaft tuned I will weigh the field points and broadheads to make certain they are the same. I have always found that broadheads fly perfect after the bare shaft or paper tuning has been done correctly as long as the weigh the same (no matter how big).
-For wood arrows I do the same thing, except I use broadheads in the place of bare shafts. A wood bare shaft can and will break fairly easily.
Good luck and have fun with it. I have found that a perfectly tuned bow is far more forgiving. I personally hunt and target shoot with the same arrows. Personally I have found that ~10gpp and ~15% FOC works best for me. Good Luck!!!
-Start off with the bow at mid range recommended brace height.
-Check on 3 Rivers or Stu's arrow spine calculator for a starting point. Both are the same, and if fed the correct information they will be very close.
-Set nocking point higher than needed and tune for up and down arrow flight first using bare shaft tuning or paper tuning. If using bare shaft tuning, the bare shaft results must be compared to the fletched shaft (Adcock's Tuning). The Adcock tuning can be found at A&H web site under tuning. If your bare shaft hits below the fletched arrows the string nock needs to be lowered, if high raise nock point.
-Always use two string nock points. I like to tie on my string nocks, use a material that is a least the same size as your serving material. The same size or larger nock material will prevent your serving from spreading and causing damage to your string.
-After your up and down is set, it's time to fine tune your dynamic spine. Once again using Adcock's tuning... Right hand shooters, a weak spine will be shown by the bare shaft hitting to the right of the fletched arrow and a stiff spine will hit to the left of the fletched arrow. Shoot several groups to make sure your results are consistent.
-For a slightly stiff spine you can increase your point weight or increase your brace height (among other things).
-For a slightly weak spine you can decrease your point weight or decrease your brace height. For a weak dynamic spine you can also add an extra set of string silencers to your string. You can also add to the side plate (among other things).
-After bare shaft tuned I will weigh the field points and broadheads to make certain they are the same. I have always found that broadheads fly perfect after the bare shaft or paper tuning has been done correctly as long as the weigh the same (no matter how big).
-For wood arrows I do the same thing, except I use broadheads in the place of bare shafts. A wood bare shaft can and will break fairly easily.
Good luck and have fun with it. I have found that a perfectly tuned bow is far more forgiving. I personally hunt and target shoot with the same arrows. Personally I have found that ~10gpp and ~15% FOC works best for me. Good Luck!!!
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