I remembered this thread and on archery talk there were several lefties in the 40-45 range and priced very reasonable
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I am not a fan of archery talk anymore. My phone was always blowing up with notifications from archery talk so I deleted my account. Also I don't like buying stuff sight unseen like that. Been burned a couple of times.Originally posted by RJH1 View Post
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A samick sage is a 62” bow. They are great for starting out. I have lots of bows but i still shoot my samick 64” journey regularly. I like the journey better at my 29” draw, but the 64” journey is harder to find now. Another option is a samick polaris for $125 from Lancaster archery. You can get up to 40# limbs on a 66” bow with the polaris. This will be much more fun to shoot if you have a 30” draw. The limbs on the sage will fit a polaris riser, so if you get a sage and you feel it stacks too much at your draw you could get a polaris riser later.
If i were you, I’d start with a 66” 30#/@28 polaris from lancaster archery and shoot the heck out of it.Comment
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Myself and others honestly don't know your budget when it comes to stuff like this. I am a proponent of the samick sage because relatively speaking, it is cheap, but yet a good shooting bow. By cheap, I mean you get a brand new, ready to shoot bow, that can take a new fast flight string for about $160 +/-. You can definitely find some used "nicer" bows in that price range, but you will have to buy used and really know what to look for. Lots of used bows have cracks that could be cosmetic, but could be worse. You could spend $400 on a bow that you will absolutely love and not have to buy another bow... but you have no clue going into it.
I have sold 2 samicks, and they both sold within a day of posting it. They go that fast. Being a lefty means it might take a few days more...
I still own a samick, I have my bow fishing reel on it. I bought a second as a backup/camp bow. I now shoot a $1200 bow and I am very hesitant to just buy any bow with the idea of selling it and trying to find another one... just not my thing.
BTW, folks have killed deer and hogs, etc with their sages on this site every year. They ain't pretty, but they are no less shooters than most other bows.
On draw weight, I'd start off lighter. In fact, I'd say buy a #40 or #35 bow... you'll thank me later. Then, decide from there if you want to sell it for something else, or just pay $75 for a set of #45 or #50 limbs.
Custom bows are great... buying and selling used bows can be fun... but when you are starting out, there is a lot to learn and there is nothing wrong with a good intro bow.Comment
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Hey MONSTERKEN - I have a 40# left-handed Sage gathering dust in my closet. I bought it for my son years ago - he moved out-of-state and didn't take it with him. If we can figure a way to get it to you, you are welcome to try it out for a few weeks to see if you like it before you buy one. Only problem is I don't have any arrows built for it.
JohnComment
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I started with a Sage. Inexpensive and adequate. Good if you aren't sure if trad is gonna work for you and don't want to over invest.
However I sold mine within 6 months and had moved up to a name brand used bow that was better for what I wanted.
I can see both sides.
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Great gesture Mr John! These guys are top notch here. I highly recommend going to a 3D shoot and just ask questions. There will be plenty people ready and willing to help. Also the guys that are asking you to start out at a lower poundage are the guys just like me who thought they could easily handle more when we started out and quickly realized we needed to drop weight to get the shot sequence and form part down. Best of luck!Originally posted by jerp View PostComment
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So bc I don't know, I am going to ask. What is the difference between say a 62" bow from a 64", or a 66"? I am assuming it'll affect the draw weight??Originally posted by SwampRabbit View PostMyself and others honestly don't know your budget when it comes to stuff like this. I am a proponent of the samick sage because relatively speaking, it is cheap, but yet a good shooting bow. By cheap, I mean you get a brand new, ready to shoot bow, that can take a new fast flight string for about $160 +/-. You can definitely find some used "nicer" bows in that price range, but you will have to buy used and really know what to look for. Lots of used bows have cracks that could be cosmetic, but could be worse. You could spend $400 on a bow that you will absolutely love and not have to buy another bow... but you have no clue going into it.
I have sold 2 samicks, and they both sold within a day of posting it. They go that fast. Being a lefty means it might take a few days more...
I still own a samick, I have my bow fishing reel on it. I bought a second as a backup/camp bow. I now shoot a $1200 bow and I am very hesitant to just buy any bow with the idea of selling it and trying to find another one... just not my thing.
BTW, folks have killed deer and hogs, etc with their sages on this site every year. They ain't pretty, but they are no less shooters than most other bows.
On draw weight, I'd start off lighter. In fact, I'd say buy a #40 or #35 bow... you'll thank me later. Then, decide from there if you want to sell it for something else, or just pay $75 for a set of #45 or #50 limbs.
Custom bows are great... buying and selling used bows can be fun... but when you are starting out, there is a lot to learn and there is nothing wrong with a good intro bow.
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It doesnt affect your draw weight. The draw weight on the bow is the draw weight on the bow.Originally posted by MONSTERKEN View Post
It has more to do with performance, feel and forgiveness. Longbows tend to need to be longer than a recurve. This is why for a factory bow, recurves are 62 and longbows 66.
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Generally, longer bows are smoother drawing for guys with longer draw-lengths and for some folks longer bows are easier to shoot accurately. (ie. more stable) I shot/shoot best with 62-66" recurves. For a new trad shooter I would recommend a 62-64" bow if you can get one.What is the difference between say a 62" bow from a 64", or a 66"? I am assuming it'll affect the draw weight??
FYI. It has been over 20 years since I lived in Plano, TX but when I was there some of the best trad shooters in the state were regulars at the Collin County monthly shoots. Hanging out with those guys really helped me out when I was a new trad shooter.Comment
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Generally, a longer bow is a little more forgiving, and as such, sometimes easier to learn with. Really short bows tend to be a lot more dependent on solid form, and as such, are probably not the best to try to learn on.
Unless your draw length is crazy long, a bow in the 60”-64” range should work just fine.
Bisch
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