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    #1

    Arrow Selection Help

    I have a Samick Sage recurve with #55 limbs. I was given some cedar arrows with it that shoot excellent, but they have field points. I am looking to buy some carbon arrows that I can use for hunting and I am not looking to break the bank. I am not too sure what I should be looking at buying and would like some input.

    As stated the bow has #55 limbs, my draw is about 29", and based upon the arrow selection chart from 3 Rivers I believe I need a 400 spine.

    I am considering the following arrows:

    http://www.3riversarchery.com/Gold+Tip+Traditional+Carbon+Arrows_i67030X_variablekit.html


    http://www.3riversarchery.com/Gold+Tip+Warrior+Arrows_i67080X_variablekit.html


    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Tags: None
    #2
    The other variable is how heavy a head you plan to use. For example with my 55# recurve, I shoot 340 shafts but I have a total of 225gr out front which weakens spine. I think 400 shafts are good for your set up but you will have to experiment with tip weight.

    Comment

      #3
      Another thing to consider. While you will have no problem tuning the 400 spine shafts to fly true, you will have a problem getting your total arrow weight up to 10 grains per pound of draw length. Many (not all) consider a that the minimum for hunting arrows. Just adding more weight out front to get to 10 GPP won't help - that will just make for a weaker spine.

      Comment

        #4
        Start with your minimum arrow length 29" and add whatever amount you want past the shelf. You are probably going to end up with an arrow about 30" or more.

        Then you need to determine your arrow weight. Recommend 10gpp or higher. So say 570grains or higher.

        Pick your Broadhead - not all come in all available weights like field points.

        The spine calculator on the 3rivers site is pretty good about getting close with my sage. Punch in the numbers and start playing with arrow type and tip weights until you get them pretty close. I'm guessing you are going to be in the 340 spine to handle a heavy broad head up front with that long of an arrow shaft. Shorter draw folks, like myself, can get away with 400.

        I then buy some shafts in that range and use field tips or cutting arrow length down from stock length to confirm where I need to be.

        It is a process. Most folks who can spout out a number that is in the ballpark have been doing this long enough that they likely remember a setup exactly like yours and can give an better estimate.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by jerp View Post
          The other variable is how heavy a head you plan to use. For example with my 55# recurve, I shoot 340 shafts but I have a total of 225gr out front which weakens spine. I think 400 shafts are good for your set up but you will have to experiment with tip weight.
          This summed it up. I shoot 54# at 28" (draw is 28"). I use a 340 shafts with a 175 great point, 100 grain brass insert and 50 grain additional screw in behind the insert. I am sitting at about 656 grains total weight on my arrows.

          The 400 spine shafts will fly quick but you will only have about 125 grain tips up front. Makes for very low FOC.

          Comment

            #6
            Why not get some glue on broad heads for your wood arrows?

            Comment

              #7
              I'm shooting 43# at 28" recurve
              I shoot 32" Gold Tips pro Hunter in a 340 spine. My arrows weigh 533 grains.
              I'm using 10 grain brass inserts and 125 grain heads.
              If I want to run more weight up front I'd switch up to a 300 spine arrow or maybe even a 250.
              I think my FOC is 18% or so

              Comment

                #8
                Update:

                I shot some of my brother-in-law's collection of arrows, and found a combination that flew like darts. The specs are as follows:

                Shafts- GT Traditional 400 (9.3 gpi)
                Length - 30.5"
                Insert- 100 grains
                225 grain field point
                TOTAL weight around 640 Grains

                He had a chronograph and this arrow was registering about 150 fps which was the same speed as the cedar shaft arrows I have as mentioned above.

                I am slightly concerned about the lower arrow speed, but mainly wondering if it would make more sense to drop down to a 500 shaft (he did not have any). Hopefully this would increase arrow speed, and eliminate the need for all the extra weight up front and allow more broadhead options.

                Comment

                  #9
                  You could certainly try the .500, and see how it does. I would not go below 9gpp if you are going to hunt with that arrow.

                  Bisch

                  Comment

                    #10
                    If I stick with the 400 spine arrow, what are the best options for a 200-250 grain broadhead? I would prefer a 1 piece screw in head as opposed to a 125 glue on head with 100 adapter.
                    Last edited by Grand Passage; 08-31-2015, 06:46 AM.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      If you want to stick with the 400 spine you could increase the shaft length - say to 31.5" and that would allow you to use a lighter head. I think a longer shaft combined with a 100 grain insert and a 150 grain head will get you close. That will also increase speed and still be at about 9.5 GPP of draw weight. Are you sure you are drawing a full 29"? Many of us starting out aren't drawing what we think we are, and that changes everything in arrow selection. BTW there aren't any 150 grain field tips that I am aware of. 3Rivers sells 5 grain brass washers I put behind a 145 grain field point so they will exactly match my 150 grain broadheads.
                      Last edited by jerp; 08-31-2015, 07:40 AM.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        buy full length 400 spine shafts, put in the tip weight of your choice and shoot them from about 15 feet. should come up weak spined (nock left). trim them back on the nock end 1/2" at a time and shoot-keep doing that until your only slightly nock left (fletching will stiffen up the shaft a little bit). thats it-done. fletch them up, add your broad heads and go hunt.

                        shaft length shouldn't be determined by your draw length but by at what arrow length you get perfect flight.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Grand Passage View Post
                          Update:

                          I shot some of my brother-in-law's collection of arrows, and found a combination that flew like darts. The specs are as follows:

                          Shafts- GT Traditional 400 (9.3 gpi)
                          Length - 30.5"
                          Insert- 100 grains
                          225 grain field point
                          TOTAL weight around 640 Grains

                          He had a chronograph and this arrow was registering about 150 fps which was the same speed as the cedar shaft arrows I have as mentioned above.

                          I am slightly concerned about the lower arrow speed, but mainly wondering if it would make more sense to drop down to a 500 shaft (he did not have any). Hopefully this would increase arrow speed, and eliminate the need for all the extra weight up front and allow more broadhead options.
                          Maybe it is just me, but that combo sounds like it would be overly weak for a 55# bow drawn at 29". I am shooting my sage at 50# and when I use a 400 spine arrow, I have it cut to 28" and 250 up front total. You are theoretically putting more power into your arrow and your arrow is not only longer (reduces dynamic spine) but also heavier up front (reduces dynamic spine ever MORE!)

                          One thing I have learned of course, is that there isn't always a precise equation... especially when you consider form and the concept of where you are looking, etc. But what you have seems off to me, at least.

                          I did go up and try to see what ballpark spine your bow was vs the arrow you described. Your bow had a spine rating of somewhere in the low 60s... and as I figured, your arrow had a spine in the mid 30s. I didn't see an option for a GT Trad 400... just the 5575, etc. I threw in the 400 beemans I had and at that length and insert/point weight... it came out to mid 35s for spine as well.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by boomer453 View Post
                            buy full length 400 spine shafts, put in the tip weight of your choice and shoot them from about 15 feet. should come up weak spined (nock left). trim them back on the nock end 1/2" at a time and shoot-keep doing that until your only slightly nock left (fletching will stiffen up the shaft a little bit). thats it-done. fletch them up, add your broad heads and go hunt.

                            shaft length shouldn't be determined by your draw length but by at what arrow length you get perfect flight.
                            Except when you are shooting off the shelf of course. If your draw length is 29"... good luck trying to reach your anchor with a 28.5" arrow with a broadhead.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              my point is that there's nothing wrong with shooting a 32" arrow if thats where you spine correctly. thats why you start with a full length weak shaft, every time you trim your stiffening up the arrow. if you get to the shortest length possible you need to drop to a lighter tip or go to a stiffer shaft and start over.

                              Comment

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