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4X6 Blind with Metal Studs

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    #1

    4X6 Blind with Metal Studs

    I haven't seen anyone else here use metal studs for a deer blinds. I personally thought it was worth trying due to the light weight and it is rot resistant.

    The floor I built out of 2X6 and I put 5" blocks of Styrofoam. I used OSB for the floor which Ill probably regret later.

    On the walls I used 20 gauge 2 1/2" studs and riveted them all together. Then framed it walls.

    I also used smart siding from Lowes for the exterior panels. I still have to paint, put in windows and door...but Im making progress.
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    #2
    I am also planning on having closed cell foam strayed in both blinds to help with rigidity and make them wasp proof. Not two worried about cold temperatures here in Texas, but that is a added benefit.

    I did this on another blind before and it kept those suckers out.

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      #3
      I would love to see any other blinds where metal studs were used. Post pictures if you have any.

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        #4
        I like light-weight options... How do you think these blinds compare in weight to traditional blinds of this size built with wood framing ?

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          #5
          They are super light. Metal studs are 1/3 the weight of wood studs. I can push on a wall and lift the entire blind off the ground. Planning on dragging it into place with my ATV

          They didn't appear at first to be stable enough but once everything was fully assembled...it became solid.

          Once I spray foam with closed cell foam...this thing will be awesome!!

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            #6
            Not that the outside isn't impressive already, looking forward to the finished interior pics. I like this idea.
            Tuned in.

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              #7
              Can you purchase the rivot tool that is needed at Lowe's and/or Home Depot ??

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                #8
                I used 3/8" rivots and used a hand tool after pilot holing.. You can get one cheap at Harbor Freight pretty cheap...

                Not planning on finishing the interior...except with closed cell foam. The idea was to limit the weight...I used only metal on the roof with no plywood for that reason...

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                  #9
                  i bet that took awhile, pre drilling each rivot hole and then working the rivots in one after another.... estimated time you have on this project?

                  they look pretty awesome though!!

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                    #10
                    That looks great, I've thought about doing that before, just seemed like it would take me twice as long. Good job on those.

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                      #11
                      how do you shoot your bow out of those skinny windows?

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                        #12
                        I really like this. I've worked with a lot of rivets in the past and they are great in an application like this because they won't back out.

                        To the OP what do you think the total weight of the blind is/will be after the insulation?
                        Last edited by RascalArms; 08-06-2014, 02:26 PM.

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                          #13
                          That's looking great!

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                            #14
                            I have another blind I bow hunt out of that I build in a trailer bed. I spend a couple of weekends on the wall for both blinds. A pair of tin snips is all you need to cut them...so the cutting part goes pretty fast. I also got some cheap clamps at Harbor freight to get all my connections done before drilling them and riveting. They do bend and twist before the walls are completely assembled...

                            BUT NOW IT IS SOLID...closed cell foam will seal the deal...

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                              #15
                              My other blind

                              Here are a few pictures of my other blind with closed cell foam sprayed in the interior. I expect this blinds interior to look similar.
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