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Old 05-27-2009, 01:06 AM   #1
wes122984
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Default DIY---- Hog Light (Stabalizer Light)

OK guys here goes my first attempt at a DIY.

This light is a 3watt led, with about 120 yards stream on white, and I would say roughly 65 yards on red. It comes with a red removable lense. This light is awesome...plain and simple. OK so here goes.


The light is a Coleman from walmart. Rated for 117m visibility. Take the light out and test it just to make sure everything works.


Next, remove the battery holder. You will see a silver tab running along the side. Lets go ahead and remove it. There is a screw on the back to remove first. Take the silver strip completely off.


Next, I used a universal car charger extender cable. Clipped the ends, and stripped back both sides.


Go ahead and solder on a pressure switch. Mine came from radioshack for under $3.


Next, I took my light and laid a flat black coat of krylon paint. Let dry for 10 min.


Next, remove the end cap of light. Drill a 5/16 hole, right in the middle. Also drill another smaller hole for the wires off to the side.


OK, heres where it is slightly hard to explain...... Feed 2 of the wires from one end through the end cap's smaller holes. On the negative terminal directly to the left of where you removed the silver strip, you are going to solder one of those wires. BUT first drill a small hole to go through the back to reach the terminal. Solder it to the base of the spring terminal, then pull it back through.


Next, run the other wire along the place where the silver tab was, and solder it to the top metal ring.


Lay a strip of electrical tape to hold that wire down. Install batteries, preferably lithium, and slowly slide the battery holder back into the light. It will be a little tight.

I used a left over a-bomb, to bridge between my light and my bow. It allows it to still absorb the vibration. Otherwise you can just use a bolt to attach to bow.

Total cost without a-bomb was under $30

And.........


And Installed.....


And down my hallway


Like is said, this light works good, and shines far even with the red lense. At 65 yards, i had about a 6 foot circle of red hitting my fence. Tried to take pics, but camera didnt show that far.

Any questions?
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:10 AM   #2
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How did u connect the abomb to the light?"
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:05 AM   #3
Tomkat07
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The bolt for it went through the flashligts end cap I believe.



Nice construction mate.
It all looks real clean and matches pretty much.
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:37 AM   #4
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Looks great.

DJ
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:03 AM   #5
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Very nice! thank you for posting.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quackwacker58 View Post
How did u connect the abomb to the light?"
yup, goes through the hole i drilled in the endcap, then used a nut
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:13 AM   #7
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Looks great!
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:36 AM   #8
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Looks great and looks like it will work perfect for you. Keep us updated when you get your first kill with it.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:39 AM   #9
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looks great, i'm going to try it out
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:59 AM   #10
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Nice Job
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:00 AM   #11
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good idea
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:07 AM   #12
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That looks great.I think I'll give it a try
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:44 PM   #13
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Thats awesome, i think i'll give it a try
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:29 PM   #14
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Sweet!! I gotta try this.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:31 PM   #15
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Sweet write up Wes.
Would like to try this.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:40 PM   #16
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im gonna have to try this, great idea
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:03 PM   #17
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Nice
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:17 PM   #18
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looks good, and at 30 dollars you cant beat it!
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:29 PM   #19
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shoot im making one of these...great post....great price...
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:41 PM   #20
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nicely done!
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:49 PM   #21
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I just finished one. I used a different pressure switch also available at Radio Shack but the same idea. Pretty sweet! Can't wait to try it out.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:15 AM   #22
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Great job.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:23 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes122984 View Post
yup, goes through the hole i drilled in the endcap, then used a nut
When drilling the cap, don't drill into your hand like he did - lol
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blast-n-cast View Post
I just finished one. I used a different pressure switch also available at Radio Shack but the same idea. Pretty sweet! Can't wait to try it out.
lets see the pics!
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:26 PM   #25
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I used the tact switch. I also used shrink wrap on both ends of the wire to protect and make it a little sturdier. It seemed to really help the end that connects to the switch. To drill out the end cap I wrapped it in a rag and grabbed it with a pair of vice grips. Be careful not to crush it. The pricing was as follows: flash light $19.99 Wallmart, Tact switch (4) pack 3.99 Radio Shack, cell phone charger $7.95 clearance item at Radio Shack, variable solding iron 15-30 watt $10.99 Radio Shack, 5/16 fine thread-24 (4) pack bolts $.68 Lowes As for the 5/16 nut, lock washer, shrink wrap, flat black spray paint, and solder I already had them. Here are a few pics...
















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Old 05-28-2009, 05:04 PM   #26
wes122984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blast-n-cast View Post
I used the tact switch. I also used shrink wrap on both ends of the wire to protect and make it a little sturdier. It seemed to really help the end that connects to the switch. To drill out the end cap I wrapped it in a rag and grabbed it with a pair of vice grips. Be careful not to crush it. The pricing was as follows: flash light $19.99 Wallmart, Tact switch (4) pack 3.99 Radio Shack, cell phone charger $7.95 clearance item at Radio Shack, variable solding iron 15-30 watt $10.99 Radio Shack, 5/16 fine thread-24 (4) pack bolts $.68 Lowes As for the 5/16 nut, lock washer, shrink wrap, flat black spray paint, and solder I already had them. Here are a few pics...
















nice job! i wanted to use that switch and the 2 closest radioshacks were out! i didnt feel like waiting. I will switch it out though. good thinking on the shrink wrap! i need to do that!
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:05 PM   #27
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btw, pop some lithiums in it...it made a good difference in mine
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:33 PM   #28
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I will try the lithiums. I hope they are worth it for the $9 for (4) Thanks again for the info. Try the shrink wrap out. It really makes a difference. It feels a lot sturdier and gives it a clean look.
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:18 AM   #29
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That's pretty neat, i'm going to have to try that!
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:40 PM   #30
wes122984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blast-n-cast View Post
I will try the lithiums. I hope they are worth it for the $9 for (4) Thanks again for the info. Try the shrink wrap out. It really makes a difference. It feels a lot sturdier and gives it a clean look.
got mine at walmart for $5 for a pack of 4, and they last 4x longer
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:36 PM   #31
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I should have checked this earlier. I paid $9.99 plus tax at the Home Depot today. Oh well not too bad I guess if they work 4x longer.
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Old 05-30-2009, 02:52 PM   #32
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This is a great posting, but I do not understand how you connect the wiring to the battery assembly. Can one of you gentlemen explain again...

thanks, Andy
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:09 PM   #33
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Nothing like protecting the pocket book!!!!!!!!!
Great build guys.
Let us know how they work/hold up in the field after a few shots.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes122984 View Post
got mine at walmart for $5 for a pack of 4, and they last 4x longer
I looked at the package again. It says 8X and lithium premium.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxJustice View Post
This is a great posting, but I do not understand how you connect the wiring to the battery assembly. Can one of you gentlemen explain again...

thanks, Andy
One wire gets soldered to the negative terminal and the other gets soldered to the ring at the end of the assembly that you removed the contact bar from. The pic with the drill through the bottom of the assembly shows the negative one. I just drilled right through where the (-) sign was.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:26 PM   #36
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Here is the connection on the other end.

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Old 05-30-2009, 08:14 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blast-n-cast View Post
One wire gets soldered to the negative terminal and the other gets soldered to the ring at the end of the assembly that you removed the contact bar from. The pic with the drill through the bottom of the assembly shows the negative one. I just drilled right through where the (-) sign was.
and technically you can just clip the contact bar and solder to it, and then to the negative, and it should fit a little better in the housing, ive done it both ways, and both work fine
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:16 PM   #38
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has anyone took any night time pictures
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Let us know how they work/hold up in the field after a few shots.
ive shot it plenty, holds up like a rock. works wonderful, i got 2" groups at 40 yards in pitch darkness
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:18 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdafonte2000 View Post
has anyone took any night time pictures
i tried, but it doesnt show up well, cause me taking it 20-40 yards away the camera doesnt work that far in the dark, ill try to get a few tonight, and have someone else stand at 40 yards while i shine it
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:14 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdafonte2000 View Post
has anyone took any night time pictures
these pics dont really do it justice, first one is at 15 yards, rest are at 40, at 40 it lit up my entire fence that is 8 ft tall. could easily see everything. it gives a pretty good view out to about 65 yards.





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Old 05-31-2009, 06:58 PM   #42
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How did you guys attach the wires to the switch? do both wires solder to the switch? Just one?
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:46 PM   #43
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Quote:
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How did you guys attach the wires to the switch? do both wires solder to the switch? Just one?
both solder to the switch
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:48 PM   #44
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The switch has two prongs on one side and two prongs on the other. Which wires go where. I cant seem to get mine to work. I did everything as you instructed but it wont come on with the switch>
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:53 PM   #45
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sounds like you are using a double pull double throw switch (dpdt) you need at least a spdt, or spst switch. im not for certain, but i believe so. you may see if it is labeled on the prongs, no (normally open) and a ground is what you will need
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:58 PM   #46
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Ok. i looked at the switch it is a spst switch. looks exactly like the one in blasts post. I got it from radio shack also. What could be wrong. Which wires go where?
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:58 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntriderant View Post
The switch has two prongs on one side and two prongs on the other. Which wires go where. I cant seem to get mine to work. I did everything as you instructed but it wont come on with the switch>
will it come on when you touch the two wires together? make sure the override switch (the one already on the light) is on. if it works when you touch them, its the switch.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:01 PM   #48
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if it works when you touch them, then test out the different post on the switch before soldering, if it doesnt work when they touch, then something isnt right in the housing
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:06 PM   #49
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I have touched them and it doesnt work. I ran one up to the metal and one onto the spring that next to it.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:10 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntriderant View Post
I have touched them and it doesnt work. I ran one up to the metal and one onto the spring that next to it.
i know it sounds stupid, but...
make sure batteries are in correctly
make sure battery housing is pushed all the way in.

also, my first one i built, i tried to use a cord much like blast used, very small wiring inside, and i couldnt get it to work. i went with a heavier cord/wire and it worked

also, you did solder the connections right?
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