Building YOUR arrow...

[Rat]

So, I've been playing around with arrows all year; weights, broadheads, fletching, yad yada.

So last night I had all my arrows left from hunting this year and decided to make my GRXH arrows.

All of these arrows had been built, and shot, before; some just at foam, others at animals; you get the idea, they are used.

I had to drive the inserts out of the shaft after I removed the weights. I used the old drill bit trick to do this, I still lost two shafts. My thinking is they were either already damaged (I did have a few misses this year) or they were glued in so well they weren't coming out without being damaged.

I then stripped the fletching off and preped the shafts.

Since I had been using weights I knew exactly how much weight I wanted up front on my arrows; turn out it is 100 gr.

I am using Gold Tip Hunter and Velocity shafts; like I said, these are leftovers from this year's hunting.

I amusing the Gold Tip 100 gr brass inserts, so I glued them in. I am also using Grip Tip glue for the first time. If it works it will be a lot easier than needing to mix epoxy all the time.

Then I installed the nock bushings and pin nocks. I love pin nocks and I am using the Gold Tip HD pin nocks.

Then on to fletching. I am using Gateway Feathers Rayzr feathers; I've been using hem for a few years and they are great feathers. They are also very light, at 1.2 gr per feather instead of the 6 gr per vane of Blazers. This will in effect give me a better FOC percentage.

I use the EZ Fletch, and the feathers can be a little finicky in the jig, but if you pay attention it is easy enough. I also use Tip Grip on the feathers; we will see.

I ended up with two sets of arrows, Hunter and Velocity. Velocity is the lighter arrow so should give better FOC when all is said and done.

Each arrow has the exact same components, cut to the same length; in effect, they are identical except for the GPI weight of the different model shafts.

I ended up with this:
Hunter: 501 gr, 20.3% FOC
Velocity: 486 gr, 21.2% FOC

Less then 1% difference in FOC and about 15 gr difference in weight.

This is the arrow I want. For me it maximizes both FOC and weight, not too much of either, I can still use normal broadheads.

This is a very easy way to get to 500 gr and/or 20% FOC without using s bunch of special stuff, like heavy broadheads or weights. Just keep in mind, everyone is a little different and results will not be the exact same for every person; but this model will get you close.

Ranch Fairy also has a good video on this, if you haven't seen it yet, I suggest you head over and give it a watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEBe-gqAoEU

Remember, figure out what you want in your arrow and then build to that; there is no right arrow for every single person or set up.

[Stoof]

I really need to come see you buddy. This hoyt is giving me hell. I got a dozen arrows coming on Tuesday to start fresh with. The Mathews is still shooting lasers so I'm good for granger.

[pigstika1978]

Tagged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Stoof

I really need to come see you buddy. This hoyt is giving me hell. I got a dozen arrows coming on Tuesday to start fresh with. The Mathews is still shooting lasers so I'm good for granger.

Whenever you get ready brutha, we can get 'er done.

[Briar Friar]

Nice builds Rat. Id like to get where you are on my Dartons arrows. Im sitting right at 20% FOC on 575 gr for my recurve.

[kd350]

So this may be a dumb question but... I’ve seen the ranch Fairy video and it’s got me thinking. Before I go through the hassle of taking my current inserts out, how would I know if I’m weakening the spine too much by putting a 100 gr insert in?

I’m shooting gold tip velocity 300 spine 29” out of a 65 lb bow

[enewman]

Originally Posted by kd350

So this may be a dumb question but... I’ve seen the ranch Fairy video and it’s got me thinking. Before I go through the hassle of taking my current inserts out, how would I know if I’m weakening the spine too much by putting a 100 gr insert in?

I’m shooting gold tip velocity 300 spine 29” out of a 65 lb bow

Take one arrow and cut the fletchings off. Then shoot one bare and one fletched at a point on target at 20 yards. Now replace both tip to a heavier tip. And reshoot. Look at how far the bare shaft is below the fletched one. If very low like 1in or more spine is prolly underspined. That’s the hard way. You could just look at a program.

[kd350]

Originally Posted by enewman

Take one arrow and cut the fletchings off. Then shoot one bare and one fletched at a point on target at 20 yards. Now replace both tip to a heavier tip. And reshoot. Look at how far the bare shaft is below the fletched one. If very low like 1in or more spine is prolly underspined. That’s the hard way. You could just look at a program.

Thanks. What program? Any of them free?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Briar Friar]

Originally Posted by kd350

Thanks. What program? Any of them free?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Mr Newman has been busy.

https://shootingtime.com/archery/bui...ow-flow-chart/
http://www.thearcheryprogram.com

The flow chart is slick. Click the diagram figures and theyre embedded with links.

[Rat]

Originally Posted by kd350

So this may be a dumb question but... I’ve seen the ranch Fairy video and it’s got me thinking. Before I go through the hassle of taking my current inserts out, how would I know if I’m weakening the spine too much by putting a 100 gr insert in?

I’m shooting gold tip velocity 300 spine 29” out of a 65 lb bow

That arrow is going to be fine, even if it is a little weak (which I don't think it will be) you can always adjust the height of the arrow through the Berger hole as I described above.

But that would be pretty close to what I am shooting, and I am shooting a heavier draw weight, so you will be good.

[Rat]

If you want me to run your arrow...

Send me a PM with:

Your bow's make, model and year along with the current spec's (draw weight and length).

Your arrow build info, make model and length of arrow (carbon to carbon), fletching type and number, nock type (plus any bushings), tip weight and insert type. Anything that adds weight will also need to be included, like wraps or lighted nocks, etc.

Send your email in the PM and I will work it up and then send you a screen shot of the arrow as it is now and with the changes you want to make to show the difference.

For those of you wanting a program of your own. I use TAP Pro, this is a full ballistic program for everything. but there is also a product called Spinal TAP that is just for arrows. I have been using TAP Pro for years and is the most accurate arrow ballistic program I have found; as determined by the accuracy of the tape and cut chart outputs anyway.

It is not free and I don't know if there is a free trial period or not.

http://www.thearcheryprogram.com/products

Keep in mind that if you have a brand 2018 bow I will not have the specs for this bow until late Feb. or early March. But I can get it close enough for arrow spine selection.

[enewman]

Originally Posted by Briar Friar

Mr Newman has been busy.

https://shootingtime.com/archery/bui...ow-flow-chart/
http://www.thearcheryprogram.com

The flow chart is slick. Click the diagram figures and theyre embedded with links.

And more coming.

[Traildust]

Originally Posted by Rat

If you want me to run your arrow...

Send me a PM with:

Your bow's make, model and year along with the current spec's (draw weight and length).

Your arrow build info, make model and length of arrow (carbon to carbon), fletching type and number, nock type (plus any bushings), tip weight and insert type. Anything that adds weight will also need to be included, like wraps or lighted nocks, etc.

Send your email in the PM and I will work it up and then send you a screen shot of the arrow as it is now and with the changes you want to make to show the difference.

For those of you wanting a program of your own. I use TAP Pro, this is a full ballistic program for everything. but there is also a product called Spinal TAP that is just for arrows. I have been using TAP Pro for years and is the most accurate arrow ballistic program I have found; as determined by the accuracy of the tape and cut chart outputs anyway.

It is not free and I don't know if there is a free trial period or not.

http://www.thearcheryprogram.com/products

Keep in mind that if you have a brand 2018 bow I will not have the specs for this bow until late Feb. or early March. But I can get it close enough for arrow spine selection.

Email sent.....#PotLicking!

[Dry Bones]

Rat, after my bow experimentation, I did play with some arrows from my longbows and ran a few through my compound. I have some Gold Tip Traditional arrows spined 340, with 100 grain brass inserts. @ 20 yards the difference was minimal, but from there the gap between pin and point of impact grew substantially, which I already knew was going to be the case.
Point to all this.
I REALLY like heavy points in my traditional bows, but had not moved that route in my compound. No chronograph so no way for me to really know what the change in arrow weight does for me, but in the target, (again not scientific as density changes all over the target), but the added FOC did not change the penetration by more than 1" (close to 50 comparable shots).
All my tinkering came back to was, I have had great success with my past set-up and did not see enough improved penetration from adding brass inserts that I wanted to add more money per shaft.
Have you had a chance to put any numbers on different shafts to see what you were getting in speed, kinetic energy (I also realize there is some fault at the physical number kinetic energy when looking at arrows but it's a measurable standard) and actual penetration?
My current compound set-up is 68#At 27.75" draw G5 Quest Rogue. Arrows are 28" off a QAD rest.
Sorry for the long one, still trying to make sense of FOC and actual real results.

[enewman]

Originally Posted by Dry Bones

Rat, after my bow experimentation, I did play with some arrows from my longbows and ran a few through my compound. I have some Gold Tip Traditional arrows spined 340, with 100 grain brass inserts. @ 20 yards the difference was minimal, but from there the gap between pin and point of impact grew substantially, which I already knew was going to be the case.
Point to all this.
I REALLY like heavy points in my traditional bows, but had not moved that route in my compound. No chronograph so no way for me to really know what the change in arrow weight does for me, but in the target, (again not scientific as density changes all over the target), but the added FOC did not change the penetration by more than 1" (close to 50 comparable shots).
All my tinkering came back to was, I have had great success with my past set-up and did not see enough improved penetration from adding brass inserts that I wanted to add more money per shaft.
Have you had a chance to put any numbers on different shafts to see what you were getting in speed, kinetic energy (I also realize there is some fault at the physical number kinetic energy when looking at arrows but it's a measurable standard) and actual penetration?
My current compound set-up is 68#At 27.75" draw G5 Quest Rogue. Arrows are 28" off a QAD rest.
Sorry for the long one, still trying to make sense of FOC and actual real results.

If I’m reading this right. You increased foc but didnt see penetration difference in a target. That is correct. You won’t. I’m suprized with the added weight you didn’t notice less penetration vs more on a lighter faster arrow.

When doing penetration test you cannot use targets. Targets work on friction. So a slower arrow will not penetrate as much as a faster arrow. Just how it is. Targets can grip a slow moving arrow easier

If you want to look at penetration sand is the best. Sand has little restriction somarrow stops when it runs out of forward momentum This is a good way to prove physics. Now a high foc arrow vs low foc same weight arrow shot into sand will have about same penetration. Foc comes into play when there is restriction on impact. Meaning to see if foc will out perform you need more restriction on impact.

[enewman]

https://shootingtime.com/archery/high-foc-arrows/

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Dry Bones

Rat, after my bow experimentation, I did play with some arrows from my longbows and ran a few through my compound. I have some Gold Tip Traditional arrows spined 340, with 100 grain brass inserts. @ 20 yards the difference was minimal, but from there the gap between pin and point of impact grew substantially, which I already knew was going to be the case.
Point to all this.
I REALLY like heavy points in my traditional bows, but had not moved that route in my compound. No chronograph so no way for me to really know what the change in arrow weight does for me, but in the target, (again not scientific as density changes all over the target), but the added FOC did not change the penetration by more than 1" (close to 50 comparable shots).
All my tinkering came back to was, I have had great success with my past set-up and did not see enough improved penetration from adding brass inserts that I wanted to add more money per shaft.
Have you had a chance to put any numbers on different shafts to see what you were getting in speed, kinetic energy (I also realize there is some fault at the physical number kinetic energy when looking at arrows but it's a measurable standard) and actual penetration?
My current compound set-up is 68#At 27.75" draw G5 Quest Rogue. Arrows are 28" off a QAD rest.
Sorry for the long one, still trying to make sense of FOC and actual real results.

As Enewman said, it doesn't make common sense when shot into a friction stop target.

MANY years ago, some friends and me got together to try some things. This was when we first started reading about Ashby and his experiments. We built what we called the "Domino Target".

You see, we had heard that 10 gauge metal was equal in tensile strength to rib bones; I don't know if that is true or not, but that's what we heard. I worked for a sheet metal shop at the time, so we started shooting stuff. We built a target stand that would hold four 12 x 12 pieces of 10 gauge sheet metal 6 inches apart; they looked like dominoes when inserted into the target, hence the name.

We then started to tear stuff up, broadheads, arrows, sheet metal plates, everything. We shot all different kinds of arrows into those plates, heavy, high FOC, light, weak spine, stiff spine; just about everything you can think of. We could change the orientation of the plates from a "broadside" shot to any angle we wanted; and each plate was able to be at a different angle. We shot a lot of arrows. We had 100 plates.

What we found was that the higher the FOC the better the penetration through the plates, especially at weird angles. We only used three broadheads, Muzzy, Thunderhead and Zwickey. The Muzzy trocar tip never failed to penetrate, while every now and then with a steep enough angle we could get a Zwickey or a T-head to skip off; these were extreme angle cases.

Shooting arrows through two plates, and then three and eventually four, really opened our eyes to what an arrow broadhead combination is capable of when done right.

The main thing I retained out of these experiments was this; for the same weight arrow, the one with higher FOC will out penetrate every time, and if it was a two blade, it was a lot more penetration.

We didn't keep records, but we shot everything we had, three different bows and shooters, hundreds of different arrow/broadhed combinations and case after case of beer.

We didn't have a chrono back then so I can't say what the speeds were, but I would imagine they were probably around the 260-280 FPS mark. My PSE at the time was the only bow that had been chronoed and it shot 277 FPS.

Other than my broadhead target, which is a sand trap, this is the only penetration testing I have ever done.

Now that I'm waxing nostalgic I may re-run this little experiment and make a video of it all. It was very interesting to say the least.

Here is a good video with a bunch of numbers that Ranch Fairy just put out a few days ago with some good shots on a 175 lb dead pig; many different arrows and broadhead combinations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3ZzJlrSV7A

[enewman]

Originally Posted by Rat

As Enewman said, it doesn't make common sense when shot into a friction stop target.

MANY years ago, some friends and me got together to try some things. This was when we first started reading about Ashby and his experiments. We built what we called the "Domino Target".

You see, we had heard that 10 gauge metal was equal in tensile strength to rib bones; I don't know if that is true or not, but that's what we heard. I worked for a sheet metal shop at the time, so we started shooting stuff. We built a target stand that would hold four 12 x 12 pieces of 10 gauge sheet metal 6 inches apart; they looked like dominoes when inserted into the target, hence the name.

We then started to tear stuff up, broadheads, arrows, sheet metal plates, everything. We shot all different kinds of arrows into those plates, heavy, high FOC, light, weak spine, stiff spine; just about everything you can think of. We could change the orientation of the plates from a "broadside" shot to any angle we wanted; and each plate was able to be at a different angle. We shot a lot of arrows. We had 100 plates.

What we found was that the higher the FOC the better the penetration through the plates, especially at weird angles. We only used three broadheads, Muzzy, Thunderhead and Zwickey. The Muzzy trocar tip never failed to penetrate, while every now and then with a steep enough angle we could get a Zwickey or a T-head to skip off; these were extreme angle cases.

Shooting arrows through two plates, and then three and eventually four, really opened our eyes to what an arrow broadhead combination is capable of when done right.

The main thing I retained out of these experiments was this; for the same weight arrow, the one with higher FOC will out penetrate every time, and if it was a two blade, it was a lot more penetration.

We didn't keep records, but we shot everything we had, three different bows and shooters, hundreds of different arrow/broadhed combinations and case after case of beer.

We didn't have a chrono back then so I can't say what the speeds were, but I would imagine they were probably around the 260-280 FPS mark. My PSE at the time was the only bow that had been chronoed and it shot 277 FPS.

Other than my broadhead target, which is a sand trap, this is the only penetration testing I have ever done.

Now that I'm waxing nostalgic I may re-run this little experiment and make a video of it all. It was very interesting to say the least.

Here is a good video with a bunch of numbers that Ranch Fairy just put out a few days ago with some good shots on a 175 lb dead pig; many different arrows and broadhead combinations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3ZzJlrSV7A

Since there is no like button. LIKE.

[Dry Bones]

Best part of this site is the wealth of knowledge that is shared. Thank you both for the threads and responses on mt let off thread.
(LIKE!!!)

[Radar]

I would like to ask y'all something, if I switch from a 100 gr broadhead to a 125 gr broadhead how much more drop do you have at 60 yards?

[kd350]

Originally Posted by Rat

If you want me to run your arrow...

Send me a PM with:

Your bow's make, model and year along with the current spec's (draw weight and length).

Your arrow build info, make model and length of arrow (carbon to carbon), fletching type and number, nock type (plus any bushings), tip weight and insert type. Anything that adds weight will also need to be included, like wraps or lighted nocks, etc.

Send your email in the PM and I will work it up and then send you a screen shot of the arrow as it is now and with the changes you want to make to show the difference.

For those of you wanting a program of your own. I use TAP Pro, this is a full ballistic program for everything. but there is also a product called Spinal TAP that is just for arrows. I have been using TAP Pro for years and is the most accurate arrow ballistic program I have found; as determined by the accuracy of the tape and cut chart outputs anyway.

It is not free and I don't know if there is a free trial period or not.

http://www.thearcheryprogram.com/products

Keep in mind that if you have a brand 2018 bow I will not have the specs for this bow until late Feb. or early March. But I can get it close enough for arrow spine selection.

Sent you a pm

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Radar

I would like to ask y'all something, if I switch from a 100 gr broadhead to a 125 gr broadhead how much more drop do you have at 60 yards?

Hard to say exactly, every arrow is different. Speed isn't the only factor, there are drag coefficients and mass location (FOC) to take into consideration as well; that's why we use ballistic programs like TAP Pro.

If you send me your information, as outlined, in a PM I can tell you what the numbers are based on the ballistic charts. It isn't going to be much though.

[Rat]

Originally Posted by kd350

Sent you a pm

Got it, I'll run the specs tonight and send you an email.

[Traildust]

Originally Posted by Rat

Got it, I'll run the specs tonight and send you an email.

Did you get my email?

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Traildust

Did you get my email?

No email Traildust...
hvacrat@gmail.com

[Traildust]

Originally Posted by Rat

No email Traildust...
hvacrat@gmail.com

Sent

[Saltyag15]

Great info on this thread! Rat and enewman have made me aware of the advantages of momentum and FOC through threads like these. I would have never known the advantages otherwise. Glad this forum is back!

[Pushbutton2]

Originally Posted by enewman

Since there is no like button. LIKE.

There is
Kinda ;-)

[trophy_seeker]

Tag

[equyst]

tagged

[Briar Friar]

Originally Posted by enewman

If I’m reading this right. You increased foc but didnt see penetration difference in a target. That is correct. You won’t. I’m suprized with the added weight you didn’t notice less penetration vs more on a lighter faster arrow.

When doing penetration test you cannot use targets. Targets work on friction. So a slower arrow will not penetrate as much as a faster arrow. Just how it is. Targets can grip a slow moving arrow easier

If you want to look at penetration sand is the best. Sand has little restriction somarrow stops when it runs out of forward momentum This is a good way to prove physics. Now a high foc arrow vs low foc same weight arrow shot into sand will have about same penetration. Foc comes into play when there is restriction on impact. Meaning to see if foc will out perform you need more restriction on impact.

I have noticed this in particular and thought it contrary to popular notion and been wondering...why the heavy and high foc arrows werent deeper than lesser arrows.

Good stuff.

[bm22]

How are you removing the old inserts with a drill bit?

[JES]

Originally Posted by bm22

How are you removing the old inserts with a drill bit?

Pull the nock out, insert a drill bit that just is slightly smaller than the inside of the arrow shaft, drill bit base down so that it lands on the insert, then raise the arrow, and whip it down, you'll have to do this several times. It will eventually drive the insert out or damage the arrow if the insert is really glued in well.

Search in on YouTube, several videos on it.