How I tune my bow, from start to finish.
If it a new bow I break everything down, here is what I do:
Limbs, for any deformities, or manufacturing defects, make sure the axle holes are drilled square (90 degrees) to the limb, and that they are not oblong.
Axles, roll axles to check for any bent or deformed axles, also check for burrs around c-clip notch.
Cams, check all the string and cable tracks for burrs, dings or pinch points. Check to make sure they are straight and true (flat and not twisted), also check module screw holes for any that may be damaged, striped. Easy to fix with a tap tool.
Riser, check limb cup alignment, check for true along longest points, check all screw holes for burrs etc. If installing new grip I do it now, easier to do with strings and cables out of the way.
String, measure string and cable(s) for proper length, check end serving and center serving for proper install. Remove Mono center serving (if this is what it has on it) and replace with BCY center serving.
Put everything back together, adding graphite dust to areas that need lubrication, I do not use grease or oils as they pick up debris. I use an egg carton to keep all of my small screws, axles, axle clips and other similar stuff. Also, I usually take a few digital photos of everything, especially the cam and cable/string routing, so if I get confused putting it all back together I have a quick reference guide.
Obviously you don’t need to do all this, I do it for my own peace of mind and because I have found each and every one of these flaws in bows. At some point you will need to put new strings on your bow, or twist up the strings you have; breaking the bow down and checking this stuff only takes an hour or two and may uncover a problem before it becomes a disaster.
Timing, or synchronizing the cams is next.
If you will be using a fall away arrow rest that is slaved to the down cable, or a cable slide system like the Windstalker, then now is the time to install it and adjust them. Any pressure applied to the cables will affect cam rollover and/or letoff, even a fall away, so it is best to tune it in with these accessories installed, instead of having to go back and do it later. I have found that a cable driven rest will affect my Tribute by about 1 ½ turns on the cable, ½ turn on my Mathews and a full turn on my two cam bows. If you forget it is easy to make up after you have installed it later, like I said, it’s usually within ½ to 2 turns, so no big deal.
First, I tighten the limb bolts all the way down. The manufacturer specs are given for fully deflected limbs, so make sure the limb bolts are fully seated. I twist the cables and string until I get the advertised Brace Height, Axel to Axel, Draw Length and Letoff. Once everything is right I map out the Force Draw Curve.
Look up your specific bow on the internet to find out exactly how this is done. There are some very good tutorials on the tech heavy forums like Archery Site dot Net and Archery Talk, as well as individual sites people have put together; some of these are done by sponsored shooters for particular brands, Google is your friend here. There are also very good books, one of the best is by Bernie Pellerite called Idiot Proof Archery.
Base Line, once cam sync is achieved and I have the proper brace height, draw length, letoff and axel to axel I mark the cams with a scribe and take all the measurements down on a dated 3 x 5 index card, I draw the force draw curve on the back (more room).
Accessorize or Die, next I add all the hang-on stuff, rest, sights, string loop, stabilizer, STS, back weights, peep, limbsavers, even the quiver (with arrows -1), everything.
I set the rest to center (according to the string), adjust height so that the arrow’s centerline covers the Berger hole centerline, and set my nock point so it is perfectly level. If installing a fall away arrow rest that uses the limb (limbdriver) or the arrow slide (Muzzy ZE) now is the time to adjust the rest; if you are using a cable driven rest and you didn’t install it during the Timing sequence you will need to re-time after it is installed and before you proceed.
Dynamic Tuning, Paper, Bare Shaft, Walk Back, or French; whichever one you use now is the time to do it. I use Walk Back tuning
Third Axis Adjustment, after my Dynamic Tuning I adjust the sights for true Third Axis. I use the Plumb Bob method.
Group Tuning, I group tune my field points by rotating the nock and when need, by adjusting the nock point on the string in VERY SMALL increments (usually up), to tighten up the groups, then I mark the nock and arrow and name it.
Broadhead Tuning, if you have performed the above steps correctly then it is VERY likely that you will not need to make any adjustments to your broadheads, if you do it will be VERY minor.
There ya have it, my blow by blow tuning sequence to a Super Tuned, Super Shooting bow.
If it a new bow I break everything down, here is what I do:
Limbs, for any deformities, or manufacturing defects, make sure the axle holes are drilled square (90 degrees) to the limb, and that they are not oblong.
Axles, roll axles to check for any bent or deformed axles, also check for burrs around c-clip notch.
Cams, check all the string and cable tracks for burrs, dings or pinch points. Check to make sure they are straight and true (flat and not twisted), also check module screw holes for any that may be damaged, striped. Easy to fix with a tap tool.
Riser, check limb cup alignment, check for true along longest points, check all screw holes for burrs etc. If installing new grip I do it now, easier to do with strings and cables out of the way.
String, measure string and cable(s) for proper length, check end serving and center serving for proper install. Remove Mono center serving (if this is what it has on it) and replace with BCY center serving.
Put everything back together, adding graphite dust to areas that need lubrication, I do not use grease or oils as they pick up debris. I use an egg carton to keep all of my small screws, axles, axle clips and other similar stuff. Also, I usually take a few digital photos of everything, especially the cam and cable/string routing, so if I get confused putting it all back together I have a quick reference guide.
Obviously you don’t need to do all this, I do it for my own peace of mind and because I have found each and every one of these flaws in bows. At some point you will need to put new strings on your bow, or twist up the strings you have; breaking the bow down and checking this stuff only takes an hour or two and may uncover a problem before it becomes a disaster.
Timing, or synchronizing the cams is next.
If you will be using a fall away arrow rest that is slaved to the down cable, or a cable slide system like the Windstalker, then now is the time to install it and adjust them. Any pressure applied to the cables will affect cam rollover and/or letoff, even a fall away, so it is best to tune it in with these accessories installed, instead of having to go back and do it later. I have found that a cable driven rest will affect my Tribute by about 1 ½ turns on the cable, ½ turn on my Mathews and a full turn on my two cam bows. If you forget it is easy to make up after you have installed it later, like I said, it’s usually within ½ to 2 turns, so no big deal.
First, I tighten the limb bolts all the way down. The manufacturer specs are given for fully deflected limbs, so make sure the limb bolts are fully seated. I twist the cables and string until I get the advertised Brace Height, Axel to Axel, Draw Length and Letoff. Once everything is right I map out the Force Draw Curve.
Look up your specific bow on the internet to find out exactly how this is done. There are some very good tutorials on the tech heavy forums like Archery Site dot Net and Archery Talk, as well as individual sites people have put together; some of these are done by sponsored shooters for particular brands, Google is your friend here. There are also very good books, one of the best is by Bernie Pellerite called Idiot Proof Archery.
Base Line, once cam sync is achieved and I have the proper brace height, draw length, letoff and axel to axel I mark the cams with a scribe and take all the measurements down on a dated 3 x 5 index card, I draw the force draw curve on the back (more room).
Accessorize or Die, next I add all the hang-on stuff, rest, sights, string loop, stabilizer, STS, back weights, peep, limbsavers, even the quiver (with arrows -1), everything.
I set the rest to center (according to the string), adjust height so that the arrow’s centerline covers the Berger hole centerline, and set my nock point so it is perfectly level. If installing a fall away arrow rest that uses the limb (limbdriver) or the arrow slide (Muzzy ZE) now is the time to adjust the rest; if you are using a cable driven rest and you didn’t install it during the Timing sequence you will need to re-time after it is installed and before you proceed.
Dynamic Tuning, Paper, Bare Shaft, Walk Back, or French; whichever one you use now is the time to do it. I use Walk Back tuning
Third Axis Adjustment, after my Dynamic Tuning I adjust the sights for true Third Axis. I use the Plumb Bob method.
Group Tuning, I group tune my field points by rotating the nock and when need, by adjusting the nock point on the string in VERY SMALL increments (usually up), to tighten up the groups, then I mark the nock and arrow and name it.
Broadhead Tuning, if you have performed the above steps correctly then it is VERY likely that you will not need to make any adjustments to your broadheads, if you do it will be VERY minor.
There ya have it, my blow by blow tuning sequence to a Super Tuned, Super Shooting bow.
Comment