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Old 02-12-2013, 10:11 AM   #1
Bucksaw
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Default Another Knife Attempt

OK, I finished another knife, and I was wondering what you guys REALLY thought about it. Be honest, especially all of you that regularly make knives to sell. What would you do different?

The basic design was picked out by the future owner of the knife. The guy I made this for is the one that brought me all the antlers that I used, so he picked the shape and design, so i didnt really have any controls over those aspects. But, what about the finish job? Any tips or pointers?

Also, if you will notice in the last picture, I had some epoxy ooze out. How do you stop this from happening? Am I using too much epoxy?I was told that all I needed was a thin layer, but I got it as thin as possible and still get ooze. How do you guys prevent this?







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Old 02-12-2013, 10:20 AM   #2
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Nice job!
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:41 AM   #3
Bill in San Jose
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I like it. When I've worked with epoxy I use a little too much to be sure it gets into all the nooks and crannys for a strong bond, and then wipe off the excess using a paper towel with some acetone on it before it hardens. You should be able to chip it off with a single edge razor blade now I'd think then wipe down with acetone.

On knives without a hand guard (bolster?) your thumb will naturally be on the top of the blade and it's screaming for some nice file work there.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #4
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Looks good to me!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill in San Jose View Post
I like it. When I've worked with epoxy I use a little too much to be sure it gets into all the nooks and crannys for a strong bond, and then wipe off the excess using a paper towel with some acetone on it before it hardens. You should be able to chip it off with a single edge razor blade now I'd think then wipe down with acetone.

On knives without a hand guard (bolster?) your thumb will naturally be on the top of the blade and it's screaming for some nice file work there.
I might try the acetone trick.

My next attempt will have pins so I can shape the handle scales, remove them to polish the steel, and then reinstall them in the exact same position.

I tried some file work on one but I havent finished it yet so I dont know how well it will turn out.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:42 PM   #6
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Yeah, acetone for sure. Qtips work well to get into that junction between the handle and the blade. It's hard to tell how thick the blade is, but I'd take the bevels up higher if it was me.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:04 PM   #7
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i really like it alot,did you bend the tang for the curve or cut it bent like?how did you grind it,the blade i mean?what kind of metal is it?sorry for all the q's but im still learning so ive been asking everyone questions,thanks for sharing
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:08 AM   #8
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Looks good!
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:29 PM   #9
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i really like it alot,did you bend the tang for the curve or cut it bent like?how did you grind it,the blade i mean?what kind of metal is it?sorry for all the q's but im still learning so ive been asking everyone questions,thanks for sharing
The steel I have is around 1/4" thick and cut from an old 6' circular saw blade from my buddies family mill. I know its not the best steel to use since I cant be sure of the makeup of the steel, but I do know its got a very high carbon content, as well as a high nickel content. I cut the blanks using the plasma at work, and shape them with a series of files, a dremel, and a belt sander. This particular knife is a full tang model with antler scales, not a hidden tang, so the tang was cut to fit the shape of the antler. The bevel was cut with a file, so I didnt get it as high as I wanted, but the steel is hard and I go tired.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #10
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Looks great
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:52 PM   #11
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Nice
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:56 AM   #12
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I like it. Good work
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:34 AM   #13
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I like it, man that blade looks thick... bet it'll take some punishment
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:44 AM   #14
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Correction, the blade thickness is 5/32. Dont know what I was thinking when I said 1/4".
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:45 AM   #15
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Good job! I like the handle shape and the cutout area on top for your thumb.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:06 PM   #16
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Here are some others that I finished yesterday afternoon. I decided I like polishing and finishing much more than hollow grinding the blade.

Only problem is, the polisher takes the edg off of them. What kind of sharpener do most pf you kive builder use, or do you even bother sharpening, and let the customer do the sharpening?
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #17
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I put some of these up before, but I finally got em finished. Some with mirror finishes, and some with satin finishes.









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Old 02-14-2013, 02:45 PM   #18
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Sharpening is the very last thing I do before it goes out the door. All polishing, etc. is done before the knife is sharp. IMO, if you're going to sell a knife, it had better arrive able to shave hair.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:12 PM   #19
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thats what I was thinking, but the sharpener I have is hard to use without running the risk of scarring the finish. What kind of sharpener do you use?
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #20
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I've pretty much gone to sharpening free hand on my belt grinder. 160 grit belt, then 400 grit belt, then 600 and 1000 stones, then strop.
I used a Lansky alot back in the day, worked OK.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:19 PM   #21
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Nice, looks good!
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:27 PM   #22
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it does look very nice!
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:10 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Fry View Post
I've pretty much gone to sharpening free hand on my belt grinder. 160 grit belt, then 400 grit belt, then 600 and 1000 stones, then strop.
I used a Lansky alot back in the day, worked OK.
You ever use diamond steels?

Whats a Lansky? Is that a brand name?
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:58 PM   #24
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Here is my first attempt at using pins. I think it turned out OK until I decided to lacquer it. Im gonna have to sand the lacqer and try it again. Had some contamination in the final coat.

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:33 PM   #25
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Got another question. I just finished one that I would like to put bolsters on. What should I use for silver bolsters, and where can I get it?
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:04 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyhuck View Post
Got another question. I just finished one that I would like to put bolsters on. What should I use for silver bolsters, and where can I get it?
Jantz has what you need and they take Paypal
Here's the link.

http://www.knifemaking.com/
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:15 PM   #27
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Cant see it at work (filtered), but Ill look at it when I get home. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:47 PM   #28
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So, do I just by one of the preshaped bolster sets and reshape it to my knife? How hard is stainless to shape?
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:24 AM   #29
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Lansky is a brand of knife sharpener that has a jig to clamp on the blade to set the angle and different coarseness stones. They're an amazon.com.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #30
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i like it!!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:36 AM   #31
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making good progress there. Agree with Jason on bringing the grind up on future blades if you're able. You might also consider more attention to the shape of the front end of your scales. IMO, that really sets knives apart from others and gives a more finished look. When compared to some that are "blocked off", you'll notice a big difference. Also graduating down through additional grits up to superfine or micron levels will help remove scratches. Keep it up
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:44 AM   #32
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I prefer a knife that has been either flat ground or Hollow ground....when they are shaped on a sanding belt ,they end up with a rounded look to the sides...a ground finish normally uses a jig to hold the blade perfectly flat[or at a precise angle]so that everything is flat angles...not sure if that is the proper terminology but hope you get my meaning,flat areas flat,not rounded is what I am trying to say....this is personal prefence ....you do better work than I could for sure....just saying what I like... The flats look more professionally done to my eyes....Lee Childers,Mike Harrigan, Ruffin Johnson,Gordon Johnson,T.D.Bennet....these makers and many others exemplify what I am saying...
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:47 PM   #33
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Your making progress; just listen to some good advise given here. It's a lot of trial and error, we all learned the hard way.. when I first started I used alot of OF steel (old files) they didn't cost much and didn't throw away a lot of money on steel. It was easier to toss an old file in the trash than some good steel I had to pay more for.
In making knives you learn a lot of short cuts along the way, the more you do the better you get. I don't think any of us will ever know it all, you learn something new everyday. Welcome to the addiction.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:44 PM   #34
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Thanks for the advice guys. Ive been taking some of the advice given here, and on other threads, and have been steadily experimenting with various aspects. Lately, Ive tried my hand at heat treating with a torch, and I think Im doing pretty good, all things concidered. I know a torch isnt ideal, but neither is using mystersy steel. But, Im working with what I have.

I even tried my hand at forging. It isnt very pretty as far as the profile is concerned, but I like the pattern it left on it. I heated it, pounded it and shaped it. Then once it was ground and final shaping was done, I heated and quenched it to harden it. Then a trip to the polisher gave me an interesting texture. The handle is dymondwood that i pinned with aluminum pins (again, not the best choice, but its what I had and it beats a 12d nail like ive used before.). Once the epoxy dried, I hit the whole thing with the buffer and it turned out very smooth. Not sure if buffing wood on your polisher is bad, but I did it and it worked OK IMO.





This one is still drying, but will get a final buff tomorrow. I used a grinder with a sanding flap disk on it to shape it. I did what you guys suggested and brought the edge all the way up, which makes it look a lot better. I dont have any guard material or I would have used some, so I just epoxied the antler handle on by itself. I did however put some of the antler shavings into the epoxy to give it a more natural color when it dries. So far it blends really well, or at least better than the plain epoxy did.



The final one I have is my first attempt at heating, as well as my first attempt at filing the spine. I think I got my heat uneven on it, or quenched it funny because it warped on me, so a second heat was required to sraighten it out. I got it pretty straight, but its not perfect. Im picturing the handle with stainless bolsters and antler scales with a lanyard pin on the hilt. Iforgot to drill it out before hardenind, so Im gonna do like Dingus suggested on my other thread, and try to aneal the handle only, then try to re-harden it. Hopefully it wont screw it up. You can also see in the second picture that I opted to leave some of the saws character on the side. Many of the blades I have done that dont have a true mirror finish on them is because I like to let people see what they came from. Not all of them, but many.







Im a quick learner, but sometimes I get ahead of myself and get over confident, so if there is anything else you see, let me know. I still welcome your constructive criticisms.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #35
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I really need to learn how to do that vine pattern.
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