Tuning trouble

[rubicon51]

Hey GS:

I am shooting a Mathews Creed XS 60# at 28" and have struggled with getting good grouping with both field points and broadheads. I took it to a local place here in San Antonio to get tuned, and I am now shooting consistently tight groups at 10 yards. However, when I back out to 20 yards all my shots are hitting high and to the left. I am not sure what in the world to do at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Arrows are 29" easton 400 bloodlines with 100gr field point

[Black-N-Red]

Have you shot it through paper or do a walk back tune? When we first set mine up I was getting a high right tare. Found a little cam lean, took that out & then ran the arrow through the top of the Berger hole. Then I was getting a bullet hole in paper. I haven’t shot fixed blades through it since I was in a hurry to shoot the next week on a hunt, so I’ve only shot Rage Hypo’s. If I get a chance tomorrow I’ll ahoot a fixed blade through to see what happens.

[rubicon51]

Have you shot it through paper or do a walk back tune? When we first set mine up I was getting a high right tare. Found a little cam lean, took that out & then ran the arrow through the top of the Berger hole. Then I was getting a bullet hole in paper. I haven’t shot fixed blades through it since I was in a hurry to shoot the next week on a hunt, so I’ve only shot Rage Hypo’s. If I get a chance tomorrow I’ll ahoot a fixed blade through to see what happens.

The shop I took did a paper tune, or that is what I paid for at least. Will have to a walk back tune tomorrow. Should I do shots at 5, 10, and 20?

[jake-1024]

Were you the shooter when paper tuning? Or did the guys at the shop shoot it?

[rubicon51]

Were you the shooter when paper tuning? Or did the guys at the shop shoot it?

The guys were the shooters

[jake-1024]

You need to shoot it through paper then. Shooter makes a big difference and it’s probably just that you shoot differently than the guy that paper tuned it.

[clffrdfdge]

You need to shoot it through paper then. Shooter makes a big difference and it’s probably just that you shoot differently than the guy that paper tuned it.

^Yup

[Mudslinger]

You need to shoot it through paper then. Shooter makes a big difference and it’s probably just that you shoot differently than the guy that paper tuned it.

This, only you can shoot your bow and tune it right. Every shooter is different and how they hold the bow, how they anchor and what type and where the pressure on the grip they put. Crazy how some shops think that they can shoot a bow and it is tuned for someone else!

[clffrdfdge]

I know a shop that will tune the bow to you!

[WCB]

My guy tunes it then I shoot and then we tweak how needed. My biggest thing is fitting my palm on the grip exactly the same way every time. If I do that I’m spot on!!

[Fishndude]

This, only you can shoot your bow and tune it right. Every shooter is different and how they hold the bow, how they anchor and what type and where the pressure on the grip they put. Crazy how some shops think that they can shoot a bow and it is tuned for someone else!

Agreed but there’s a fine line you gotta walk there where both parties need to meet. I’m not spending hours with a guy with a death grip for example.

[Calihunter1]

Hey GS:

I am shooting a Mathews Creed XS 60# at 28" and have struggled with getting good grouping with both field points and broadheads. I took it to a local place here in San Antonio to get tuned, and I am now shooting consistently tight groups at 10 yards. However, when I back out to 20 yards all my shots are hitting high and to the left. I am not sure what in the world to do at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Arrows are 29" easton 400 bloodlines with 100gr field point

Well let me ask by saying did you move your sight high and left to follow your arrows? 10 yards your arrow dosnt have a ton of time to move.. 20 yards will show ya where your arrow is going. Sight in for 20 yards move your sight high and left. Then go back from there to 30 and so on. Once your shooting dead on at 20 and say your horizontal is off at 30 then go back to walk back tuning! Good luck

[Black-N-Red]

You definitely need to be the shooter through paper. Your form maybe different than theirs. I start walk back at 5 & 10yrds. I use a piece of paracord. Once I get 5 & 10 splitting the string I move to 10 & 20yrds. Once it’s splitting the string there it should be good. Maybe have to make some small adjustments when briadheqd tuning.

[Mudslinger]

Agreed but there’s a fine line you gotta walk there where both parties need to meet. I’m not spending hours with a guy with a death grip for example.

FND, ain't that the truth.

[Rat]

Hey GS:

I am shooting a Mathews Creed XS 60# at 28" and have struggled with getting good grouping with both field points and broadheads. I took it to a local place here in San Antonio to get tuned, and I am now shooting consistently tight groups at 10 yards. However, when I back out to 20 yards all my shots are hitting high and to the left. I am not sure what in the world to do at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Arrows are 29" easton 400 bloodlines with 100gr field point

A couple of things...

1) Paper tuning is only the beginning of tuning, you still have a ways to go. The next step will be to do a walk back tune or a French tune. Then you will need to broadhead tune; this is only one path, there are many. For example, you could bareshaft (if you have good form) tune and then broadhead tune.

This is Macro tuning, then Micro tuning and finally Nano tuning; each step is making smaller and smaller adjustments at longer distances to find the perfect dynamic center of the bow.

2) 400 spine @29" and 60# might be a little on the weak side for this bow. I have only tuned one Creed XS, and we could get it good enough with .400 arrows, but .340 arrows really made a huge difference.

Move the sight to get everything on point @ 20 yards and then finish tuning; you are on the right track.