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Setting up an ILF bow.

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    #31
    Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
    Looks like you're getting there.

    Here's a video on how I do my string silencers.

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    Rick
    That's what I needed. Got one in the works now. Thanks!

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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      #32
      Didn't have the fancy jig, but I made a couple of silencers last night. Need to pound them flat and install. Hopefully get to do that tonight.

      I had to play plumber last night so I didn't have much time to work on anything else.

      I think I'm finally going in the right direction.
      Now if I could just have some daylight when I get home....
      Lol

      Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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        #33
        Originally posted by huntinfool View Post
        Took the brace height down to 8.25"
        Top limb tiller is 6.5"
        Bottom limb tiller is 6.75"

        #42

        Took it outside ( rain, cold and dark and I really wanted to try it...lol!)

        Shots were touching and the only sound I heard was the string twang.

        So now to figure out how you made the string silencers.

        I saw the video on how to install them, just not how you got them like they were, when they were ready to be installed.

        I picked up some yarn, but I think it might be a bit small. Still going to give it a try.

        Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
        Looking at those tiller measurements, you still have negative tiller. The top limb measurement needs to be larger than the bottom limb measurement to achieve positive tiller. Make it 1/8" bigger in the top.

        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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          #34
          I'm going to go out in the shop and look around, I might have the manual out there.

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            #35
            Originally posted by huntinfool View Post
            Took the brace height down to 8.25"
            Top limb tiller is 6.5"
            Bottom limb tiller is 6.75"

            #42
            I don't mean to sound critical, but your tiller is backwards. Most ILF limbs are designed for zero or up to 1/8" positive tiller. Not a 1/4" negative tiller like you have. This because even if the grips of our bows are in the center, the arrows are above center due the shelf being above our grips. So in relation to the arrow the lower limb is essentially longer. So the lower limb needs to be slightly stiffer to keep the limbs in time.

            What is your nock height with the way you have things? Shoot a bareshaft with your fletched shafts and see how they compare if you haven't yet. I could be wrong, we all shoot differently. But once you put a fixed blade broadhead on (if you plan to hunt) and if you have things too far out out of whack, accuracy problems are going to show up in relation to your field points. Fletching corrects tuning issues where bareshafts and broadheads show them clearly.

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              #36
              Is it possible you have two upper or two lower limbs?

              Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

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                #37
                Originally posted by TMiddleton View Post
                Looking at those tiller measurements, you still have negative tiller. The top limb measurement needs to be larger than the bottom limb measurement to achieve positive tiller. Make it 1/8" bigger in the top.

                Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
                Good call!
                It was late and I was kind of in a rush. I think I have to change them, unless I typed them wrong. Know more tonight.

                Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by TMiddleton View Post
                  I'm going to go out in the shop and look around, I might have the manual out there.

                  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
                  Thanks

                  Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by stickbowcoop View Post
                    I don't mean to sound critical, but your tiller is backwards. Most ILF limbs are designed for zero or up to 1/8" positive tiller. Not a 1/4" negative tiller like you have. This because even if the grips of our bows are in the center, the arrows are above center due the shelf being above our grips. So in relation to the arrow the lower limb is essentially longer. So the lower limb needs to be slightly stiffer to keep the limbs in time.

                    What is your nock height with the way you have things? Shoot a bareshaft with your fletched shafts and see how they compare if you haven't yet. I could be wrong, we all shoot differently. But once you put a fixed blade broadhead on (if you plan to hunt) and if you have things too far out out of whack, accuracy problems are going to show up in relation to your field points. Fletching corrects tuning issues where bareshafts and broadheads show them clearly.
                    Yeah, I either typed it wrong or in my rush, adjusted them wrong.
                    I'll figure it out tonight.
                    Thanks for the info. Very valuable.

                    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by DRT View Post
                      Is it possible you have two upper or two lower limbs?

                      Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk
                      Dunno. I doubt it. The person o bought it from bought it all new, so I'd assume they were a pair...if there is such a thing.

                      Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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                        #41
                        Yeah, I missed that the tiller was negative instead of positive, but I was telling him "more" on the top limb.

                        By the way - ILF, and ILF limbs aren't designed for any specific offset tiller, except a target tiller of dead even.

                        They are designed so you can tiller the bow to where/how you want it to be.

                        They actually try to make a set of limbs dead even where it makes no difference which one is top or bottom. Most of the time that's how they are, but sometimes they are a little off, and I have seen multiple times where swapping the limbs top to bottom/bottom to top made the tiller come out closer to even.

                        Rick

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                          #42
                          I know at scout camp sometimes the boys get them mixed up. Not sure how big a difference it made but the instructor acted like it was serious. I was just coaching the boys so . . .

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                            #43
                            Ok, corrected my mistake.

                            Top tiller is 6.75
                            Bottom 6.5

                            #44!

                            Haven't finished the puffs yet, but they are tied.
                            Playing with my grand daughter now. Hopefully after I take her home I can get them finished and installed.
                            I believe I was told this bow has a Flemish string on it. So according to Rick's video I can just put them in the string at the marks.
                            I think I will go ahead and tie them in, just in case. Hope to have that done tonight.


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                              #44
                              Damian, yes it has a Flemish twist string on it and you don't need to tie your yarn silensors in. They will stay put on their on.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by TMiddleton View Post
                                Damian, yes it has a Flemish twist string on it and you don't need to tie your yarn silensors in. They will stay put on their on.

                                Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
                                Right on, installing them now.

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