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Old 07-23-2018, 09:06 AM   #1
Chew
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Default opinions on tuning issue?

Bowtech Prodigy tuned by a trusted bow tech. Everything in specs. Shoot through paper multiple times. Bullet holes.

Get it home. Broadheads hitting 5-6" right of fieldpoints (two different heads). No signs of fletching contact on the QAD HDX

Try rest tuning but can never bring them together.

I'm hoping I'm not underspined (shooting Carbon Express BLU 250s), but if I do the adjusted draw weight on the CE chart, I may be. Bow is maxed out at 62 lbs. 28" draw. 100 gr. heads.

I tried backing the weight off 2-3 turns to see if that would help, but nothing changed.

Taking it back to the shop soon but wanted to see what you gurus think??
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:16 AM   #2
Bigdaddy
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Chew try a stiffer arrow for grins. I don't think your under spined. Are your field points hitting right? Give me a call later to discuss
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:20 AM   #3
hogslayer78
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I shoot carbon express mayhem 250's and my bow is 60/28 and I have no issues with arrows. Spray your fletchings with a spray powder and shoot just to make sure there isn't fetching contact on the rest. When you say 5" to 6" off of field tips, is this at 20 yrds or farther?
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:24 AM   #4
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Shoot Rocky a PM, he will get you lined out. The shaft is borderline IMO and if the arrow is running a little longer could be a problem. However, if you backed it off three turns it should have dropped in the mid 50's and shown some improvement. I'm assuming it was yoke tuned to get good tears through paper, if not that's something to check.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:26 AM   #5
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They are off that much at 20 yds.

My eyes are getting bad but I'm pretty sure I can see some tail kick/correction going on but can't tell which way.

I sighted in with FP then shot BH. Both slicktrick and Magnus stinger hitting way right.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
Shoot Rocky a PM, he will get you lined out. The shaft is borderline IMO and if the arrow is running a little longer could be a problem. However, if you backed it off three turns it should have dropped in the mid 50's and shown some improvement. I'm assuming it was yoke tuned to get good tears through paper, if not that's something to check.
Yessir. It was yoke tuned to get it right. The bowtech laser on the cam thingy was used and hitting where it was supposed to.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:32 AM   #7
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Good deal, just reach out to Rocky he's the resident Bowtech expert. Most modern bows tune better to the stiff side and many times a weak spine is stressed more when shooting broadheads. But that being said it should still be able to be tune better than you are seeing, you aren't way out.
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:25 AM   #8
enewman
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Here is a thought. Take bow back to spec. So cams in sync. Set rest at 13/16. And set cam lean so it’s straight at draw. Or at rest top cam the arrow is center of string at loop. Set arrow level and through the center of burger hole.

Now take two arrows one fletch and one bare. Shoot it at same spot at 20 yards. If bare shaft is to the right nock left or to the left nock right. Then it’s you or it’s not behind the power stroke. If bare shaft is low nock high then you need to stiffen up arrow. If high nock low then weeken the arrow. Very important to put bow back to factory settings first.
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enewman View Post
Here is a thought. Take bow back to spec. So cams in sync. Set rest at 13/16. And set cam lean so itís straight at draw. Or at rest top cam the arrow is center of string at loop. Set arrow level and through the center of burger hole.

Now take two arrows one fletch and one bare. Shoot it at same spot at 20 yards. If bare shaft is to the right nock left or to the left nock right. Then itís you or itís not behind the power stroke. If bare shaft is low nock high then you need to stiffen up arrow. If high nock low then weeken the arrow. Very important to put bow back to factory settings first.
I would bareshaft tune as enewman is describing, this is the method that gets me the best results with arrow flight and thus broadheads. I would add that high or low hits is more often an issue of vertical nock travel than spine problems in my experience. Can be either or both though. I always spec an arrow that is on the stiff side though so that I donít have this problem. If you can get a stiffer arrow to try this with at the same time youíll see quickly if itís a spine issue or not though. I say that high or low hits are generally showing me nock travel instead of spine problems because Iím almost always shooting a slightly stiff arrow for my setup. If you think you may me too weak, Iíd get a stiffer arrow to try so that I could see if the results changed. If they do, you have an arrow spine problem. If they donít (or donít clear up entirely with a stiffer arrow), you have a vertical nock travel problem.

Bareshaft tuning requires very consistent shot execution, or youíll just chase your tail trying to tune out issues that are really to do with your shooting and not the bow tune. If you think this may be a problem for you, you could alternatively paper test at different distances. Itís possible that the arrow is porpoising or something and was a bullet hole at the distance you paper tested but wouldnít have been 3-5 yards later/earlier. Iíve not tried this as Iíve always gotten the results I needed with bareshaft tuning, but plenty of others have done this successfully with paper at various distances.

D
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:29 PM   #10
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High and low are good. It's left and right.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:19 PM   #11
dk_ace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chew View Post
High and low are good. It's left and right.
Then your spine is probably fine. If you were too weak, you’d be seeing a high/low impact issue as spine problems in compound rigs tend to show up vertically.

If you’re sure you don’t have a contact issue, then the power stroke of the bow is not directly behind the arrow and that’s why your broadheads are hitting to the right.

You can bareshaft tune or just tune based on your broadhead impact which is showing you the same thing. Set the rest back to it’s centershot spec as a starting point. Make sure your grip is what it should be, plenty of videos around demonstrating what that should look like. Adjust your yokes to get the broadheads and FPs impacting together.

D
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dk_ace View Post
Then your spine is probably fine. If you were too weak, youíd be seeing a high/low impact issue as spine problems in compound rigs tend to show up vertically.

If youíre sure you donít have a contact issue, then the power stroke of the bow is not directly behind the arrow and thatís why your broadheads are hitting to the right.

You can bareshaft tune or just tune based on your broadhead impact which is showing you the same thing. Set the rest back to itís centershot spec as a starting point. Make sure your grip is what it should be, plenty of videos around demonstrating what that should look like. Adjust your yokes to get the broadheads and FPs impacting together.

D
This ^^^^^^^^
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:45 PM   #13
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Thank y'all. Appreciate the info
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:32 AM   #14
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Did you change your set up from last year?
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:47 PM   #15
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I had the same issue with Chill-R (I know different bow) but I had cam lean at full draw on the top cam. Had to break it down & swap the limbs from side to side. Took care of the issue. I was shooting 125gr Solids.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:04 PM   #16
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NO WAY you should be underspined. I shoot an Obsession Def Con 6 with a 29" draw, 70#'s with Black Eagle Carnivores cut to 28" and 150 grains of rear insert weights and a 125 grain head for a total weight of 595 grains and these suckers shoot a bullet hole everytime and shoot my 125 grain Ramcats like darts and any mechanical I put on them. These Black Eagle Carnivores are a .250 spine! Something ain't right in my opinion, but I have not tinkered with my set up since Muddy set me up with the Black Eagle shafts, just upped the FOC a little!
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:33 PM   #17
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It was a yoke tuning issue on the cam. Took 3 twists on the top and bottom. DMack fixed me up yesterday. Bowtech says set centershot and leave it. Tune by twisting yoke cables.

http://youtu.be/dbvVuH-nTks


Got it shooting good. Arrows are flying pretty. Took it out to 80 yds yesterday. Just gotta do some fine tuning for broadheads
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chew View Post
It was a yoke tuning issue on the cam. Took 3 twists on the top and bottom. DMack fixed me up yesterday. Bowtech says set centershot and leave it. Tune by twisting yoke cables.

http://youtu.be/dbvVuH-nTks


Got it shooting good. Arrows are flying pretty. Took it out to 80 yds yesterday. Just gotta do some fine tuning for broadheads
Got any pics of the 80 yard groups?
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:17 AM   #19
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Boom! Good to hear! When is your elk hunt Bobby?
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:41 AM   #20
Chew
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Got any pics of the 80 yard groups?
I wouldn't call them groups. More like loose associations.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:42 AM   #21
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Boom! Good to hear! When is your elk hunt Bobby?
About 30 days!
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:56 PM   #22
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About 30 days!




Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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