as far as Loctite it comes in varying bottle colors, the color of the actual locktite is the strength of it. As long as you shake it well locktite should be good for about 5 years.
As for the torqueing you can get any torque wrench calibrated I am not sure to cost. Also never tq something then back of then torque again unless a manual says so that is used for really high tq's
These comments are based on my 15 plus years of aviation mechanic experience working with tq's and locktite
They replied to my email saying the person that said they'd mail me some last Monday didn't know the FDE ones were in metal finishing & not available. They are over-nighting me a black set & when the FDE's are finished they'll send me a set of those. They still haven't answered my questions I asked, though.
Looks like the compression lock on the lower ring also exerts pressure on the lower ring housing at the break point when mounted to your base. Just looking at them without the base they both look fine with the machined surfaces perfect, when on the base you can see the gap at the bottom and the more you tighten the screw more pressure against the ring....???
Looks like the compression lock on the lower ring also exerts pressure on the lower ring housing at the break point when mounted to your base. Just looking at them without the base they both look fine with the machined surfaces perfect, when on the base you can see the gap at the bottom and the more you tighten the screw more pressure against the ring....???
Kind of appears that way to me as well. It's a Talley 20moa rail.
I removed the rail, cleaned all bolts to remove any oil and reinstalled everything w/new Loctite 242. Torqued everything to Talley's spec's again, except I did the ring to rail nuts at 60 instead of their recommended 65 in./lbs. I'll give it 72+ hrs. to set up then take this rig out and see if the scope still functions properly. I'll post back with my findings and what Talley says about the broken FDE ones I'm sending back to them.
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