I just acquired what I believe to be a 70's Era Fred Bear Kodiak Magnum. I am super stoked! It is a little loud right now. I am trying to find information to tune it (proper brace height). It is a 45# bow. What are your recommendations for arrow and broadhead weight?
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look for a arrow in the 5575 range, which is a .400 spine, maybe even a .500 spine arrow depending on your draw weight, I would cut the arrows around 30-31'' and have tip weight around 125-150, I would put the brace around 7 1/4 '' with that bow
nice bow though -
A .400 spine arrow will be waaaaaay to stiff for 45#! You can make a .500 or .600 spine work if you find the right combination of shaft length and front end weight. Brace height on that bow should be somewhere around 7-8". There is a lot more to tuning a trad bow than just brace height. Getting the arrow tuned to you and the bow is the key! As far as arrow weight goes, try to stay at or above 10 grains per pound (gpp) of draw weight. Also, you need to have your draw length checked with the trad bow so you know exactly what your draw weight is. You draw length with the trad bow will likely not be the same as it was with a wheel bow. The bow is 45#@28". If you draw 26" you actual draw weight is only about 40#. If you draw 30", you actual draw weight will be about 50# (or more, depending on stack).
BischLast edited by Bisch; 09-17-2016, 09:53 AM.Comment
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Congrats on taking the plunge to traditional.What length is the bow and your draw length?The Kodiak Magnums typically came pretty short in length and could be a challenge to shoot accurately because of finger pinch and stacking.Comment
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I figured the arrows were to stiff. Thanks for the info!Originally posted by Bisch View PostComment
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Congratulations!
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The reason I did not throw out any numbers, like you should get xx arrow with xxgr broadheads is that it is almost impossible to get it right over the internet. You need to learn to shoot a trad bow, which can take some time to get good form down and learn to shoot with no sights or letoff, and then worry about serious tuning. Until you get a consistent shot down, tuning will likely just frustrate the heck out of you.
Also, like limbbender said, if your "new" bow is a 48" Kodiak Magnum, it may not be the easiest bow to learn on. Not trying to burst your bubble. It is just that real short bows can be a challenge for a lot of folks (I am one of those).
Oh, and btw, welcome to the fun side!!!
BischLast edited by Bisch; 09-17-2016, 09:55 AM.Comment
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Your draw length and the method of shooting(split or 3 fingers under) are important factors that will determine arrow spine.You mentioned that the bow is loud.Install whatever string silencers you need before tuning an arrow to your bow.You can tune an arrow by length and changing point weight.A 500 spine arrow at 31''with a 175 gr bare shafted would be a logical starting point.The major variable is going to be draw length.Comment
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the reason why I said .400 is because you can keep them full length, put a 150 grain tip up front with brass inserts which will soften up the spine, and it will tune perfectly, their are more than a few ways to tune each arrow to each setup, I had a Kodiak magnum @ 45# and I shot 5575 gold tip traditionals 31'' and it tuned perfectly with a 28'' draw...Comment
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Well, I guess it is a "different strokes for different folks" thing then. With .400's, I had to use full length with 100gr inserts and 150gr points for my 50# bows, and they were still just a tad stiff.
OP, this is a perfect example of why you should not pick arrows from internet advice!
BischComment
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not trying to argue, but yes .400 has worked for me many of times with a 45#, look up jimmy Blackmon on youtube and he explains various ways of tuning an arrow, via either to soften the spine or stiffening up the spine, it boils down to form alsoComment
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but to be on the safe side I would go ahead and get .500 spine arrowsComment
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Well, I have been doing this for a while, and I think I know how to tune my bows pretty well. I have seen Jimmy's videos, as well as many others. I have also seen a lot of new guys get on an internet forum asking "What arrow should I use?", and then get a lot of advice telling them to go with an xx" length shaft and xxgr point that makes them go out and waste money on stuff that will not work well for them. All we can do thru the computer is get someone in the ballpark. Actual tuning is the only way to know for sure that you have the correct setup, and tuning can only yield credible results if the shooter has consistent form.Originally posted by ghostgoblin22 View Post
BischLast edited by Bisch; 09-17-2016, 11:10 AM.Comment
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ive been doing this for 4 years also and tune my bows pretty **** well also, was just trying helpOriginally posted by Bisch View PostComment
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