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2nd & 3rd Axis & Fine Tuning

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    2nd & 3rd Axis & Fine Tuning

    I have a question for the bow techs on this site. I have a sight that has the 2nd & 3rd axis adjustments on it and I am going to try and get those right this weekend. I am also planning on getting my hands on a bow press to paper and yolk tune my bow in the current future. My question is this - If I go to the trouble of getting my 2nd & 3rd axis set, will I have to do it all over again after I yolk tune?

    #2
    Curious also thanks for asking this

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      #3
      ttt

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        #4
        I really don't know.
        When you harness tune, you slightly alter cable tension, but I don't know if it will alter it enough to affect axis tuning.
        There are very few bows where the 2nd and 3rd axis' are right, especially in this part of the country.
        How are you gonna adjust them so that they are right?

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          #5
          They will still be close enough you wont be able to shoot the difference within reasonable bow range in Texas for sure

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            #6
            Originally posted by rocky View Post
            I really don't know.

            When you harness tune, you slightly alter cable tension, but I don't know if it will alter it enough to affect axis tuning.

            There are very few bows where the 2nd and 3rd axis' are right, especially in this part of the country.

            How are you gonna adjust them so that they are right?

            I'll adjust the second axis with a bow vise and a level. I will adjust third axis by shooting downward (or upward) at an extreme angle. Probably from my roof down to a target at 30 - 35 yards.

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              #7
              Originally posted by JKaggie07 View Post
              I'll adjust the second axis with a bow vise and a level. I will adjust third axis by shooting downward (or upward) at an extreme angle. Probably from my roof down to a target at 30 - 35 yards.

              I should have probably mentioned that all these adjustments will be made to my sight only.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
                They will still be close enough you wont be able to shoot the difference within reasonable bow range in Texas for sure

                The more I'm researching I don't think that 2nd and 3rd axis will be affected at all by paper or yolk tuning. It looks like these adjustments are purely made off of level readings based off of bow angles and will not be affected by any fine tuning of the bow....

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by JKaggie07 View Post
                  I'll adjust the second axis with a bow vise and a level. I will adjust third axis by shooting downward (or upward) at an extreme angle. Probably from my roof down to a target at 30 - 35 yards.
                  I hope this works.
                  IMO, 30-35 yards is not near far enough, and unless you have a really tall roof, it won't be high enough.
                  Most shooters start their axis adjustments in a shooting machine, then fine-tune at 40+ yards on a 45 degree slope.
                  I know some use the doorjamb/level/plumbob method, or a Hamskea, but without the actual steep downhill distance shots, this is still a crude adjustment.
                  Guys out west are good at this, but I don't know that I've ever seen a level in Texas that was 'right'.
                  You have to know that your level is right, before you can rely on it, whether simply shooting, or using it in one of the walk-back tuning methods.

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                    #10
                    They make a tool for setting these. I will look it up and get the name of it. "On Target Archery " in Canton has it. We have used it to set my 3d rigs up.
                    Not sure who in the Ft Worth area has the same set up to do it. I will send some text out to some of the shop shooters that shoot for shops in that area. Pretty sure there will be a shop that kind do it for you.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by tazhunter0 View Post
                      They make a tool for setting these. I will look it up and get the name of it. "On Target Archery " in Canton has it. We have used it to set my 3d rigs up.
                      Not sure who in the Ft Worth area has the same set up to do it. I will send some text out to some of the shop shooters that shoot for shops in that area. Pretty sure there will be a shop that kind do it for you.

                      That would be great! Thanks for the help!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by rocky View Post
                        I hope this works.

                        IMO, 30-35 yards is not near far enough, and unless you have a really tall roof, it won't be high enough.

                        Most shooters start their axis adjustments in a shooting machine, then fine-tune at 40+ yards on a 45 degree slope.

                        I know some use the doorjamb/level/plumbob method, or a Hamskea, but without the actual steep downhill distance shots, this is still a crude adjustment.

                        Guys out west are good at this, but I don't know that I've ever seen a level in Texas that was 'right'.

                        You have to know that your level is right, before you can rely on it, whether simply shooting, or using it in one of the walk-back tuning methods.

                        I know that YouTube has good and bad information for DIY tuning methods, but these method were ones that I was going to try here at my house.





                        I think what you are saying is that this would still unreliable at distances past 40? Because the level is incorrect in Texas vs one out west?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by JKaggie07 View Post
                          I have a question for the bow techs on this site. I have a sight that has the 2nd & 3rd axis adjustments on it and I am going to try and get those right this weekend. I am also planning on getting my hands on a bow press to paper and yolk tune my bow in the current future. My question is this - If I go to the trouble of getting my 2nd & 3rd axis set, will I have to do it all over again after I yolk tune?
                          No, yes, and maybe...
                          No you will not need to level the bubble (2nd axis) again; but, depending on how much you move things while yoke tuning you may need to adjust the 3rd axis again.

                          You do not need to shoot to set the third axis, neither do you need to climb on the house. Use the plumb bob method at full draw. Setting it in a vice with a tool will only get it close. The plumb bob method takes into account the flex in the riser at full draw.

                          Once you make the changes to the string/cables just check the third axis against the plumb bob; very easy to accomplish.

                          What are you trying to tune out by yoke tuning? I only ask because yoke tuning is only one step in the process to a properly tuned bow.

                          there is no magic bullet; go through the whole process and you will have a finely tuned bow. Use a short cut and you will be chasing frustration all over the target!
                          Last edited by Rat; 01-31-2015, 09:44 AM.

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                            #14
                            Hamskea makes a nice 3rd axis tool. I need to get one also

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                              #15
                              I didn't watch the videos but 3rd axis is really easy to adjust.

                              1) Set a plumb bob from a good height, like a high tree branch . Mine is 22 feet up. Use bright colored line, like yellow or pink mason's line from Home Depot.

                              2) Stand back far enough to tilt your bow at a 45° (use another level to get the feel).

                              3) Draw your bow level and level the sight housing bubble.

                              4) No raise your bow to the 45° angle remembering to bend from the waist (move the upper body as one solid limb).

                              5) As you raise the bow keep the bubble level until you are at 45° and line the vertical pin heads up with the plumb bob

                              6) The bubble will come off level as you align the pin heads to the plumb bob, make note of the direction the bubble moves (they don't all move the same direction).

                              7) let down and do this a couple of times to make sure you aren't causing the movement.

                              8) Make the adjustment to the sight bar and do this again.

                              9) The goal is to get the sight bar swung to a point where the bubble stays bracketed at a 45° angle when the pins are aligned with the plumb bob.
                              Last edited by Rat; 01-31-2015, 10:09 AM.

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