Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tuning guidance please

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Tuning guidance please

    Im bareshaft tuning on my Sarrels 60" dual shelved Lynx recurve, 53#@28. My actual draw is 31.5"-32" but only pull about 28.5"-29". Split finger. 8" brace height. Between two nock points is 1/4"(top of bottom nock) to 7/16" (bottom of top nock).

    I built and am tuning small game and large game arrows. All my arrows are factory full length...I believe. I have been working on my form for the past two years and have never cut a shaft. I have a saw and am afraid to use it.

    The small game are Beman Centershot 600 7gpi, 30 7/8" long shafts, 75gr insert, 100 gr point, total weight 417gr and FOC is 18.4%.

    The large game are Easton Aftermaths 340 9.6gpi,31 7/8" long shafts, 75 gr insert, 175 gr point, total weight 575 gr and FOC is 20.6%.

    Bareshaft and fletched shots are from 10yds.

    What do yall suggest adjusting first?

    First pic is large game shot left handed.
    Last edited by Briar Friar; 01-26-2021, 09:15 AM.

    #2
    Small game shot left handed

    Pic rotated ccw.
    Last edited by Briar Friar; 01-26-2021, 09:15 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      Small game shot right handed.
      Last edited by Briar Friar; 01-26-2021, 09:15 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        Looks like you shoot better lefthand... It also looks like you have a lot longer draw length righthand.

        In my opinion shooting different arrows is like shooting a different bow. I realize you're still relatively new to trad archery but the sooner you normalize everything the easier things get for you. In the beginning stay with one setup, personally I'd don't change things up much. That's not to say I've always stuck to one bow/ arrow combination but I shoot better now that I use the same or very similar setup.

        Two different sets of arrows, righthand, lefthand is fun but I don't think it is productive. Personally, I'd go with my dominant eye and let that determine which hand I shot. You know what they say about hind-sight, I did not always practice what I'm preaching here. There's likely somebody that will read my comments and laugh looking back at all of the bows that I have been through.

        Comment


          #5
          I'm not an avid Trad shooter, BUT- KISS. I'd agree with C&H, stick with one approach rather than changing the setup, get good at one setup first.

          Comment


            #6
            Not even going to bother looking at the pictures... but rather point out something that I have learned from doing exactly what you are doing here. Below are the things that stuck out in my head and are important:

            53#@28. My actual draw is 31.5"-32" but only pull about 28.5"-29".

            The small game are Beman Centershot 600 7gpi, 30 7/8" long shafts, 75gr insert, 100 gr point, total weight 417gr and FOC is 18.4%.

            The large game are Easton Aftermaths 340 9.6gpi,31 7/8" long shafts, 75 gr insert, 175 gr point, total weight 575 gr and FOC is 20.6%.
            What is good for the boar, is good for the bunny.

            Your small game arrows are too light in my opinion. They are 7.5 grains per pound and your bow may not like that. That, and believe it or not, you might bounce that arrow off a jack rabbit depending on the head. Ask me how I know.

            Get rid of that arrow and just pay attention to the heavier arrow. Build yourself some very inexpensive wingnut small game heads (mine come out to 175 gr... which just so happens to be the weight you need for the heavy setup.) Same arrows regardless of game.

            Not only this, but then you don't have to learn different "holds" for the different arrows. (holds in quote because it could be conscious or subconscious depending on how you choose to aim)

            Keep it simple, shoot one setup for all game and just get used to it. I'd be a bigger fan of just owning a different bow that you like to shoot small game with and use a different arrow for that rig. I'd say it is probably easier to switch between bows than it is arrows on the same bow.

            Just my opinion...

            Comment


              #7
              Tuning guidance please

              I don’t see any way a .600 spine shaft will work with a longer than 28” DL and a 50+# draw weight!!! Those shafts should be too weak no matter what you do to them!

              Like said above, stick with the stiffer arrows and get them tuned well. I don’t bareshaft, so I can’t really interpret your results.

              Also, like said above, “what is good for the boar will be good for the bunny”.

              Bisch


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

              Comment


                #8
                In the quest for accuracy our first priority is to reduce variables. Everything the same every shot. All arrows the same....etc. Once you have that under control your mind can begin to make adjustments that are meaningful.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Good to go. KISS. Small game are no longer in the equation. I got the notion from an IBO Masters video...lighter arrow with flatter trajectory...that and the plethora of 100gr commercially available broadheads. My bow is significantly louder with the 417 gr. and noticeably more hand shock than with the 575gr. Boy do they zip. Gone.

                  C&H...I believe you are right about a longer draw right handed. Ive noticed it too. Awesome!

                  Rabbit...I think you posted a blunt tip build a while back...Im gonna search that out later.

                  Moving forward...what should I adjust concerning the 575s? (Im not really afraid to cut)

                  Thank all yall.
                  Last edited by Briar Friar; 02-06-2018, 10:22 AM. Reason: PlethoraSpake

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Your bare shafts are in the same group so maybe if you move back to fifteen you’ll see a little more. If it looks like that out to twenty, don’t touch anything.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by KenWood View Post
                      Your bare shafts are in the same group so maybe if you move back to fifteen you’ll see a little more. If it looks like that out to twenty, don’t touch anything.
                      Will do. Thanks Ken.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Briar Friar View Post
                        Rabbit...I think you posted a blunt tip build a while back...Im gonna search that out later.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Been there before. I tried building a set of GT Trad .600's for bunny/squirrel and some CE 250's for deer/hogs. Too darn many variables in the way to get them both to shoot the same. I mean I had to aim so much differently out at 15 yards or so that it made my head swim.

                          Pick one set of shafts, build them for anything up to and including WT and you should be good to go. In my case I just build and shoot the GT .600's as they fly flat for me.... that and I've got like 2 dozen of the darn things.

                          Richard.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Here's what I did and I'm sure there are much better ways out there. My primary goal was efficiently killing whitetails. First I decided what broadhead I wanted to use (175 grain Simmons Shark). High FOC for penetration (75 grain insert). The next step was 175 grain field points and some full length 400 and 500 bare shafts. Put my wraps on the bare shafts.You might not like the next step because for me it"s the saw. Now after watching the flight of the bare shaft I start cutting the shaft ( a little at a time) until it flies straight and where I'm looking. Then fletch the shaft and paper tune. That was plenty hard enough for me, there's no way that I could attempt to do two things at the same time. Good luck hope to see you in Fredericksburg.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I know I left a lot out of my explanation. Check out Black Widow's web site, he's a lot better than me. (good video)

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X