Secret to Running a Table Saw?

[Fargus]

I am trying to rip some 2x4's on a 45* angle with my table saw and all I am doing is burning up my wood and creating a bunch of smoke. What's the secret or trick? I'm using a 36 tooth blade which should work.

[Boss Buck]

New blade for sure needed now. Does the saw blade tilt?

[Chadroe]

Secret to Running a Table Saw?

Dull blade? If your using a guide maybe it's in a bind?

Google---results.
1) Dull Blade
A dull blade doesn’t move as quickly through the wood, thereby creating friction. Friction creates heat. You know the rest. Try sharpening your blade or buy a new one.

2) Blade Alignment with Miter Slot
If the blade is out of alignment with the miter slot you could have burning and other performance issues.
Squaring Your Miter Gauge the Right Way

3) Blade Parallel to Fence
If the blade’s not parallel to the fence you’ll get the burn, especially one side of the wood. Fixing this is fairly simple though.
Table Saw Alignment for $0.05?

4) Blade Bent or Warped
If your blade is bent or warped then it’s HIGHLY kickback prone. You should immediately replace it. Warping often happens when a saw blade is overheated, so if you’ve been having burn problems for awhile then you could be aggravating the problem
warped saw blade?

5) Blade Height
In one forum I read where a fellow kept getting burns on his cherry. The blade manufacturer suggested he raise the blade height and this worked in stopping the burn. Blade height affects the angle that the teeth hit the wood. Too low and you make your blade work too hard, causing friction.

6) Appropriate Blade for the Cut
Are you ripping with a cross cut blade? If you’re new to woodworking you might not even realize it’s happening… Make sure that your blade matches the kind of cut you’re making.

7) Dirty Blade
A dirty blade moves through your stock more slowly. This causes friction and burning. Clean your blades.
ToolCrib.com’s Ultimate Guide to Cleaning Saw Blades and Router Bits

8) Feed Rate Too Slow or Uneven
Those who are newer to woodworking may not realize that their table saws can usually accept a pretty high feed rate. If you’re stopping and starting to adjust your hold, or just moving the stock through very slowly you’re likely to get burn.

9) Warped Wood/Improperly Dried Lumber
Warped wood will bind, as will improperly dried lumber that releases as you cut it. Both instances can cause burn.

10) Splitter Misaligned or Missing
A splitter will help keep the wood from binding around the blade. This bind can cause friction and kickback.

[d_e_smith]

Stop ever so often to stick a screwdriver (or wedge...whatever will fit and pry a little) in the cut to keep it from pinching.

[TX_bowhunter37]

watch your fingers

[doright]

First thing i would try is going slower. Without knowing how strong the motor on your saw is it may not be strong enough to cut as fast as you are feeding it

[JANSLEY817]

get a new blade for starters. also a good sled is worth its weight in gold.

[BrianL]

Dull blade, not feeding straight, or you are feeding it too fast, or all 3

[TallTexan]

Dull blade, not feeding straight, or you are feeding it too fast, or all 3

This

[Fargus]

Dull blade, not feeding straight, or you are feeding it too fast, or all 3

Although a dull blade is possible, not likely. It's brand new. If I go any slower I would be going backwards, ha ha. Feeding it straight is a possibility, but am doing everything within my power to keep the dang board straight. I want a straight cut so I trying to be careful. I am thinking I should go to a 24 tooth blade.

[SwampRabbit]

How much of the blade (depth) are you using? I was splitting 2x4s with a blade and it ran the full height of the blade. It was slow going, but I just made sure I let the blade do the cutting and didn't feed real hard.

Since you are cutting at and angle. the weight of the top of the board might be providing too much friction to the side of the blade. (assuming you are cutting a long board.

[BrianL]

Although a dull blade is possible, not likely. It's brand new. If I go any slower I would be going backwards, ha ha. Feeding it straight is a possibility, but am doing everything within my power to keep the dang board straight. I want a straight cut so I trying to be careful. I am thinking I should go to a 24 tooth blade.

Is your blade squared to the table?

[LeanMachine]

Are you using a fence? If not you are pretty much wasting your time trying to make a straight cut. That is, assuming you are ripping a 45 degree bevel down the length of the board. If you are making a 45 degree miter cut, you need a miter gauge at the very least. A full sled would be better. If the board moves laterally at all during the cut, you are binding the blade. A table saw requires that the path of the board always be parallel to the blade.

[dustoffer]

My bet is #1, 3, or 7.

[LeanMachine]

No need for a coarser cut blade. I rip 2x4s on a bevel w a 60 tooth all the time effortlessly.