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Old 03-13-2018, 01:40 PM   #1
Honker
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Default Cabin or Barndo?

We're finally ready to build a weekend/hunting-season place on our slice-of-heaven near Louise, TX. The goal is to avoid taking on debt so we will likely have to build in stages.

For this reason, I'm considering using J&A Cedar Builders out of El Campo, TX. J&A builds cabins, but only the outer shell and this would reduce the initial cost. I'm curious if any of my green-screen brethren have any experience with J&A and the quality of their work?

We haven't ruled out building a barndominium. If you happen to know of reputable barndo builders in the El Campo/Victoria areas, I would appreciate any referrals.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:15 PM   #2
sharpstick35
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i put a 3 bd 2 ba single wide on my place. brand new was 32k but ive seen used ones cheaper. i went that route due to move in readiness one week after closing. i put 8k down and and payments are 268/mo. but ive been paying more than double and throwing extra at it. its been 15 months and i owe 14k and expect to have it paid off by december this year
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:17 PM   #3
E.TX.BOWHUNTER
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I priced some places and gave up. I will do my own cabin build from my own design. I got everything in it I could want. It started at 700sqft but has grown to 1200. Construction companies wanted almost $80.00/ft for a shell. That won't happen so I am going solo on the build. My wife enjoys the property so much she is talking retiring out there so the cabin is now designed for every day life. I hope to start the foundation this month. Like you it will be staged out for cash purposes. I hoope to have a usable shell by next hunting season. Good luch with watever you choose.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:30 PM   #4
BrianL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honker View Post
We're finally ready to build a weekend/hunting-season place on our slice-of-heaven near Louise, TX. The goal is to avoid taking on debt so we will likely have to build in stages.

For this reason, I'm considering using J&A Cedar Builders out of El Campo, TX. J&A builds cabins, but only the outer shell and this would reduce the initial cost. I'm curious if any of my green-screen brethren have any experience with J&A and the quality of their work?

We haven't ruled out building a barndominium. If you happen to know of reputable barndo builders in the El Campo/Victoria areas, I would appreciate any referrals.
Finish out is about 3x-4x cost of shell...
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL View Post
Finish out is about 3x-4x cost of shell...
Oh really? That would be one expensive cabin.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:37 PM   #6
BrianL
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You need to figure out what you are going to do, cost , etc. Electical, plumbing, cabinets, dry wall, paint, flooring, septic, water, insulation, plumbing fixtures, light fixtures, doors, doorknobs, ac/heat, framing, appliances .... It adds up fast.

Last edited by BrianL; 03-13-2018 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:41 PM   #7
BrianL
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My shell was about 18/ft, my finish out was on living was about $60/ft
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:47 PM   #8
Big pig
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Barndo we built out after barn was built sure worked out well. Approx 2.5 times shell cost.
Warm and dry. Long summer of framing, plumbing wiring and painting,but all worth it.
Nice investment for the property.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:34 PM   #9
kmitchl
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Steel framed metal building shells with doors and insulation run $20 to $25/ sq ft with the smaller buildings being more expensive. Build out can be cheap or expensive based on your budget/expectations.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:43 PM   #10
Heath
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Look at doing a shipping container cabin. That is what we did. The best thing is itís easy to pick up and move as well as being mouse proof.
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:12 PM   #11
Old Goat1
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http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=678691
Check this out. Best of both.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:25 PM   #12
Draco
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The metal building will be the best for a staged building over time. The shell will be less. Foam it and do the AC/heat and you will be working in comfort from then on.
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:04 AM   #13
Quackerbox
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In for same reasons

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:45 AM   #14
El Paisano
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I built a barndo last year. I had heavier slab and steel in the foundation, 14 ft eave height, and 4 in 12 roof pitch. The slab is 1800 sf. The enclosed area is 1200 sf. The eave height and roof pitch allow you to get a good stand up loft or even almost a whole second story. I built the loft over 400 sf and left the living area open to the ceiling. My shop takes up about 300 sf of floor space.
I put expensive exterior siding on the interior walls.
I think I have about $90K in the building finished and complete with washer/dryer, stove, fridge, 2 baths, 2 bedrooms, 17 X 24 living area/kitchen, and 400 sf loft.
Most metal buildings are 1 in 12 roof pitch. Think hard about spending a little more and raising the eaves and pitch to get a lot more usable room out of your building.
I put the 1" padded flooring squares in the loft and the grand kids have a blast up there.
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:47 AM   #15
El Paisano
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By the way, pay the extra, if any, for the spray foam insulation if you get a metal building.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:32 AM   #16
Honker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Paisano View Post
I built a barndo last year. I had heavier slab and steel in the foundation, 14 ft eave height, and 4 in 12 roof pitch. The slab is 1800 sf. The enclosed area is 1200 sf. The eave height and roof pitch allow you to get a good stand up loft or even almost a whole second story. I built the loft over 400 sf and left the living area open to the ceiling. My shop takes up about 300 sf of floor space.
I put expensive exterior siding on the interior walls.
I think I have about $90K in the building finished and complete with washer/dryer, stove, fridge, 2 baths, 2 bedrooms, 17 X 24 living area/kitchen, and 400 sf loft.
Most metal buildings are 1 in 12 roof pitch. Think hard about spending a little more and raising the eaves and pitch to get a lot more usable room out of your building.
I put the 1" padded flooring squares in the loft and the grand kids have a blast up there.
Good advice...thanks. If you used a contractor to build the structure, I would appreciate any referrals. Thanks again.
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:02 AM   #17
wal1809
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I checked out the cedar cabins and met with the guy. I have some issues with the way they are built. The one major flaw is the beams from pier to pier are 2 by 10s bolted to the side of a wooden pier. That is absolutely the wrong way to construct a pier and beam. the entire weight of the house is centered on those bolts. Beams go on top of piers, period. I don't care what a builder says, beams should never be smaller than 6 x6 and never span a stretch longer than 6 feet apart. Somebody is going to argue this, probably here on the thread. Don't ever do it or you will be adding more to it later.

I am a fan of the Advantach 1 and 1/8th inch flooring that he uses. I used it in my house after we moved it from a slab to a pier and beam. There was a drop piece that set out in a mud hole in the yard. It took weeks before the water started penetrating and altering it. Pretty much water impervious the way we would be using it.

The price he is shooting is a bait and switch. When you set down and discuss it, the price will climb. "Ohhh you want a porch?" no problem, its only money.
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