Are my Arrows Heavy Enough?

[Village]

My hunting bow is a Hoyt Buffalo, 50b @ 28in(also my draw length). The arrows that I made for it weigh only 385 grains. They’re tuned well, both according to the 3Rivers calculator and my bare shaft tuning. My first question is, are these arrows too light for hunting whitetails and pigs?

The obvious answer, using the “10 grains per pound” rule, is yes. But the 3Rivers calculator says this arrow should deliver 37.8 ft-lbs, which is at least enough for deer, right?

Arrow break-down:
- Gold Tip 3555(.500) Hunter Black - 29in to nock, 7.4gr/in
- 125gr 2-blade Magnus Stinger broadhead
- 12gr insert
- 12gr nock
- 3 x 5in feathers
- stick-on wrap

If I should shoot heavier arrows, do you recommend adding weight tubes or building a new set with heavier shafts and broadheads?

Thanks!

[RS3]

Subscribed!

[Tracker0721]

I think you may need some more FOC. Some people here shoot over 300 grains up front. I settled on 175 up front with 5gpi tube making my arrows 615-620grains. My fir shafts are 630 so they fly pretty much in the same arch to 20yds.

BUT plenty of people take deer and hogs with your set up, yourself included for that 1 pig already! The heavier arrow/higher FOC will help penetration if you hit bones and such though.

Dylan

[JoeyF]

Seems a tad light to me. I'd bump that broad head up to something like a 175gr Simmons Tigershark and you got a flat shooting, pig sticking, deer killing weapon.

I shot 417gr total weight using the VAP skinny shafts, 225 up front, out of my 50# this past season and killed two deer. The arrow buried to the fletch on the buck.

[TacticalCowboy]

I think you're alright.

[bucknuts]

"Heavy is good , heavy is reliable"

[BowBuddy]

I think if the fly really well you will good. Go ask a butcher if you can have an old ham to shoot into. If it cuts through meat that's all you want. Arrows are best observed and not talked to much about.

[caughtandhobble]

My hunting bow is a Hoyt Buffalo, 50b @ 28in(also my draw length). The arrows that I made for it weigh only 385 grains. They’re tuned well, both according to the 3Rivers calculator and my bare shaft tuning. My first question is, are these arrows too light for hunting whitetails and pigs?

The obvious answer, using the “10 grains per pound” rule, is yes. But the 3Rivers calculator says this arrow should deliver 37.8 ft-lbs, which is at least enough for deer, right?

Arrow break-down:
- Gold Tip 3555(.500) Hunter Black - 29in to nock, 7.4gr/in
- 125gr 2-blade Magnus Stinger broadhead
- 12gr insert
- 12gr nock
- 3 x 5in feathers
- stick-on wrap

If I should shoot heavier arrows, do you recommend adding weight tubes or building a new set with heavier shafts and broadheads?

Thanks!

First of all, is your Hoyt OK to shoot arrows below 8 gpp? Some bows require a minimum gpp, some of the glass/ aluminum bows and ILF bows can go lighter than wood/ glass bows. The heavier gpp you go the quieter your bow will be in most cases.

If the arrows are good to go here's what I suggest now that you have them ran through the calculator, go tune your setup. I am pretty new to this but I love the tuning process. Whether you prefer paper tuning or bare shaft tuning it's time to go tune her up and double check your calculated numbers.

OK, let's say you're good to go with less than 8 gpp. If by chance your arrows show to be on the stiff side you can add more weight up front thus getting the gpp and foc up. If by chance they tune perfect as stated above, I don't think that you will have a problem hunting with that setup. As long as you do your part and put your very sharp arrow where it needs to be from a well tuned setup I don't think you'll have any problems.

If your arrows tune to be weak, I would not lower the weight up front, that would be too light. I personally would never use weight tubes although some people do. You could easily go up to a .400 spine arrow and add more weight up front and make it work just fine. Higher gpp and foc is not a bad thing in the trad world. I hope this makes sense. Good Luck!!!

[RickBarbee]

I can pretty much guarantee you those arrows are to stiff, unless you are shooting with them inside of center.

The 3R's calculator is a stripped down version of Stu's calculator. It works, but it isn't as accurate as it should be.

Add 25 gr to your front load, and you should be real close to where you need to be. This will also get you a bit over 8gpp.

The nocked end weight is figured at 20gr, because your wrap probably weighs close to 8gr - 12gr nock + 8gr wrap = 20gr

You can add the 25gr up front with an internal 20gr weight & a 5gr brass washer weight under the point. Both of which you can get from 3R's.

Hope this helps.

Rick

[RickBarbee]

PS,

The Buffalo is cut 3/16" past center. Using a 1/16" thick strike plate material will place the 3555 (5/16") shaft just slightly outside of center on it's center line. That's a good place to be.

Rick

[Buff]

I would bet you are hurting you bow with every shot.
Do whatever you like but I would not shoot a arrow less than 9 grains per pound from any of my bows.

[RickBarbee]

I would bet you are hurting you bow with every shot.
Do whatever you like but I would not shoot a arrow less than 9 grains per pound from any of my bows.

Marty is spot on with this.

From what you currently have - You can add in some 3gpi weight tubes, plus bump your tip weight up to 145gr, and that should give you a real good tune with an arrow close to 9.5gpp

Rick

[Bisch]

7.5 grains per pound of draw weight is very light. I would try to work up an arrow something more like 10gpp to hunt with. Like Rick said above, your arrow cut down that much is probably stiff. Try a longer shaft with more weight up front.

Bisch

[Village]

Thank you all for the great info!

Hoyt's warranty warns not to shoot arrows under 5gpp. I've noticed that the Buffalo is shoots a little loud and with noticeable hand shock with these arrows. I've been told that it's a sign of wasted energy from a light arrow, so I'm all for making them heavier and glad that you all suggested it!

I'm going to order some 3gpi weight tubes and use my frugal man's 8-32 brass screws to experiment with insert weights and tuning.

If for some reason I can't tune these already-cut arrows, what's your favorite heavy carbon shaft? Are .500 GT Heavy Hunters too heavy? Use .500 Traditionals instead?

Thanks,
Jared

[pivo]

Carbon express heritage shafts are heavier with comparable spine than gt. If you add weight up front you are gonna get weak quick. If you some extra length to trim you could always trim back and add weight then bareahaft again.