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Old 02-09-2018, 02:56 PM   #51
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All of my strings are Flemish twist.

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Old 02-09-2018, 03:25 PM   #52
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But that doesn't mean much. I know very little about this stuff.

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Old 02-09-2018, 04:01 PM   #53
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Flemish twist, or flemish splice depending on who you talk to, is really just how the end loops are made. Though an endless loop will generally tolerate fewer twists than a flemish twist because of how the end loop are made (if you untwist a flemish too much you can start to untwist the loops which is bad news), it will still have twists in the string. That varies depending on the string builder of course. Back in the day I had some endless loops with no twists before I set the brace height, but that is not too common these days. So holding a string silencer in place, one type won't be better than the other unless you have a string that is a little too short and you don't have many twists in it causing the strands to be "loose" when unstrung. At least in my experience of shooting trad and building strings.
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:25 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by stickbowcoop View Post
Flemish twist, or flemish splice depending on who you talk to, is really just how the end loops are made. Though an endless loop will generally tolerate fewer twists than a flemish twist because of how the end loop are made (if you untwist a flemish too much you can start to untwist the loops which is bad news), it will still have twists in the string. That varies depending on the string builder of course. Back in the day I had some endless loops with no twists before I set the brace height, but that is not too common these days. So holding a string silencer in place, one type won't be better than the other unless you have a string that is a little too short and you don't have many twists in it causing the strands to be "loose" when unstrung. At least in my experience of shooting trad and building strings.
I am going to take your word for it.
All I know is, my string is unstrung right now and my string silencers are right where I left them.
That's all I know for sure.
Lol.


One day I'll get all the lingo and meanings down.

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Old 02-09-2018, 05:13 PM   #55
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I am going to take your word for it.
Good news is with the internet you can spend a few minutes on Google to determine if you think I am full of it not .
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:27 PM   #56
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I shoot flemish strings.
My strings only have 1/2 twist per inch of overall length.
I don't tie my silencers in. Just slip them in between the bundles.
The silencers never move by themselves, but I can move them if I want to.

Rick

EDIT for a P.S.

Even an endless loop string benefits from a few twists.
8 to 10 twists in and endless makes it shoot better.
I guarantee it.
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:55 PM   #57
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Good news is with the internet you can spend a few minutes on Google to determine if you think I am full of it not .
That takes way too much time.
I don't even have time to post here, let alone fact check!

Most peeps here are good and knowledgeable.
Ask a question, get an answer. Faster and .ore reliable than Google.

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Old 02-09-2018, 05:58 PM   #58
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I shoot flemish strings.
My strings only have 1/2 twist per inch of overall length.
I don't tie my silencers in. Just slip them in between the bundles.
The silencers never move by themselves, but I can move them if I want to.

Rick

EDIT for a P.S.

Even an endless loop string benefits from a few twists.
8 to 10 twists in and endless makes it shoot better.
I guarantee it.
I wonder if I have too much twist in mine? Is there a thing as too much? How would you tell? Measure an inch and try and count the twist?

Great, just when I thought I was doing good, there's another twist!

( See what I did there?)

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Old 02-09-2018, 06:09 PM   #59
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I've read you want no more than 3 twists per inch.

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Old 02-09-2018, 06:33 PM   #60
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I've read you want no more than 3 twists per inch.

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Performance will actually start to degrade some beyond 1.5 twist per inch, but it isn't enough for most to notice it. Once you get to the 2.5 to 3 twists per inch & beyond, then the string starts acting like a retention coil spring, and the degrading of the performance becomes more noticeable.

It isn't a real big deal as far as structural integrity is concerned, unless the string is twisted so much that it coils back & kinks up on itself when relaxed, then you've got a problem, and a string destine to break eventually.

Damian, if your string isn't kinking up when you relax it, don't worry about it. For now.

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:59 PM   #61
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I've noticed that as a string gets twisted it makes a difference in noise and vibration.

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Old 02-09-2018, 07:05 PM   #62
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I've noticed that as a string gets twisted it makes a difference in noise and vibration.

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Once you get to much twist, absolutely they do.

That gets back to what I said about them acting like a retention spring.
Because they are springy, they don't stop moving as quickly, they don't stop the limbs from moving as quickly, and they allow more after the shot travel past brace of the limbs. All of which equates to more noise, less stability, and degraded performance.

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:50 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Performance will actually start to degrade some beyond 1.5 twist per inch, but it isn't enough for most to notice it. Once you get to the 2.5 to 3 twists per inch & beyond, then the string starts acting like a retention coil spring, and the degrading of the performance becomes more noticeable.

It isn't a real big deal as far as structural integrity is concerned, unless the string is twisted so much that it coils back & kinks up on itself when relaxed, then you've got a problem, and a string destine to break eventually.

Damian, if your string isn't kinking up when you relax it, don't worry about it. For now.

Rick
Rick

It doesn't coil back on itself.
I took a video of me shooting, but no clue how to post it. Bow sounds very quiet. Arrows were almost touching from 5, 25, and 20+. Although shooting in the dark is not that easy.


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Old 02-09-2018, 09:52 PM   #64
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Here is the string and puff ball

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Old 02-09-2018, 09:54 PM   #65
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String relaxed

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Old 02-09-2018, 09:56 PM   #66
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BTW Rick I didn't know exactly how to change the brace height, so I added some twists of the string. Don't know if this was good or bad, but that's what I did.

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Old 02-09-2018, 09:57 PM   #67
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BTW Rick I didn't know exactly how to change the brace height, so I added some twists of the string. Don't know if this was good or bad, but that's what I did.

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That's How you do it.

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Old 02-09-2018, 10:02 PM   #68
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BTW Rick I didn't know exactly how to change the brace height, so I added some twists of the string. Don't know if this was good or bad, but that's what I did.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
That's How you do it.

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Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:02 PM   #69
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So I think if I'm looking at this right I've got about 1.5 to 1.75 twists per inch.
Again, I may not be looking at it correctly.

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Old 02-09-2018, 10:03 PM   #70
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Looks good.

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Old 02-09-2018, 10:03 PM   #71
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It's twisted up pretty good, but still just fine.
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:07 PM   #72
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If you look there is one strand of black twisted around the orange. So, if you use that as a reference, then I don't even have one twist in one inch. But, that may not be how you do it!

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Old 02-12-2018, 08:10 AM   #73
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Went and saw my friend ( former Olympic Archer.
Checked out my bow, did a slight adjustment and went to shooting

Form is good, though I occasionally dip my head and don't leave it straight up.
Figured out my 500 arrows at full length and 145gr tips are best.

Right when we were done, he measured my draw length and said its 29! ( Who knew)

Never thought about it, but do I need to increase my brace height?

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Old 02-12-2018, 08:30 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by huntinfool View Post
Went and saw my friend ( former Olympic Archer.
Checked out my bow, did a slight adjustment and went to shooting

Form is good, though I occasionally dip my head and don't leave it straight up.
Figured out my 500 arrows at full length and 145gr tips are best.

Right when we were done, he measured my draw length and said its 29! ( Who knew)

Never thought about it, but do I need to increase my brace height?

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Having a former Oly Archer as a friend is a valuable resource.
Let him help you all he is willing to do.

If the arrows are tuning & shooting well, and the bow is quiet, don't change the brace height.

Rick
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:34 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Having a former Oly Archer as a friend is a valuable resource.
Let him help you all he is willing to do.

If the arrows are tuning & shooting well, and the bow is quiet, don't change the brace height.

Rick
Thanks, I meant to ask him, but we were walking into his house for some eggs. And , well, eggs won! Lol

Shot a doe (MLD) that morning then shot the bow and figured out the arrows. It was a great day. As soon as I get the tips and broafheads and some more practice, we are going to chase some pigs on his lease. Hoping to get some kills under my belt. Build my confidence.

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Old 02-12-2018, 09:02 AM   #76
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Thanks, I meant to ask him, but we were walking into his house for some eggs. And , well, eggs won! Lol

Shot a doe (MLD) that morning then shot the bow and figured out the arrows. It was a great day. As soon as I get the tips and broafheads and some more practice, we are going to chase some pigs on his lease. Hoping to get some kills under my belt. Build my confidence.

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Sounds like you are in very good hands.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:32 AM   #77
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Mistake***


My arrows are 400's.


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Old 02-12-2018, 11:16 AM   #78
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I would think 500's would be closer to what you need to be shooting. Did y'all have time to bare shaft those 400's?

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Old 02-12-2018, 07:16 PM   #79
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I would think 500's would be closer to what you need to be shooting. Did y'all have time to bare shaft those 400's?

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We did to an extent.

Not sure if his heart wasn't in it or if after seeing these fly he knew we were good.
We didn't shoot any 500's.

Right now, the arrows I have are flying good.
So I guess I'll stay here for a bit.

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Old 02-12-2018, 07:19 PM   #80
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We did to an extent.

Not sure if his heart wasn't in it or if after seeing these fly he knew we were good.
We didn't shoot any 500's.

Right now, the arrows I have are flying good.
So I guess I'll stay here for a bit.

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In the end, what shoots is what shoots, and what shoots is all that matters.

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Old 02-12-2018, 07:21 PM   #81
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In the end, what shoots is what shoots, and what shoots is all that matters.

Rick
Thanks.
I try my best to not "guide the guide"

He said they were good, and all I needed to do now is practice. So, that's what I'm going to do!

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Old 02-13-2018, 04:31 AM   #82
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Thanks.
I try my best to not "guide the guide"

He said they were good, and all I needed to do now is practice. So, that's what I'm going to do!

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If you already have the right arrows for you and your setup, you are way ahead of the curve! It took me forever and a day to get it right without any guidance.

Now to get consistent...that's something else. Keep at it and good shooting!

Todd
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:54 AM   #83
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If you already have the right arrows for you and your setup, you are way ahead of the curve! It took me forever and a day to get it right without any guidance.

Now to get consistent...that's something else. Keep at it and good shooting!

Todd
Thanks.
I knew it was going to be a pain. Especially since we had already tried it on the other bow.
But since we knew most of the variables starting out, he kind of knew where we needed to be.
Luckily I hadn't cut off all my arrows!
Now I just need to finish the inserts and buy the tips.
Hope to have that done soon.

Got my target moved in front of the backstop Sunday. Should have the tin to cover it in a week or so. Then just need to rig some lights. Thinking I may just get a battery and a couple LED strips.
We use them here at work and I know they will put out quite a bit of light. I can rig up a solar panel on a battery and put a switch on it. ( Might even make a 12v photo electric eye to turn it on, once it gets dark) But maybe just a manual switch.
Then, if needed I can get one of those clamp on lights to shine the area where I'm standing. Although there is a light on the building...if it works. I'll have to check tonight.

Should be up and running and able to shoot into dark in about 2-3 weeks. ( Working in the dark the next few weeks)

I'll keep y'all updated on the progress.

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Old 02-13-2018, 07:05 AM   #84
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I have a stand alone light with rechargeable battery I use for night shoots. Just set it off to the side pointing at the target. Grandson likes to play with it though so I have to keep up with the battery.

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Old 02-13-2018, 07:55 AM   #85
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Thanks.
I try my best to not "guide the guide"

He said they were good, and all I needed to do now is practice. So, that's what I'm going to do!

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That is most likely correct. You cannot do any serious tuning until you have somewhat consistent form. I bet money you will be doing some fine tuning later on that will make you change a few things!

Go practice and have some fun!

Bisch


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Old 02-13-2018, 10:12 AM   #86
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So I've been looking at the dirt nap gear heads. Just found out they have a 150 grain head. Would 5 grains make that much of a difference if I shoot the field tips and broad heads the same weight? Or do I need to find 145 grain tips and broad heads?

So far my form is just fine, I just need to remember to not dip my head. Otherwise everything else is fine. Practice is what I'm going to be working on. Getting it all down to where it's muscle memory.
But first I've got to have something to shoot at!

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Old 02-13-2018, 11:40 AM   #87
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I have never been able to notice such small changes as 5 grains, but maybe others can. I think you will be fine with 150's.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:03 AM   #88
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Talked to my buddy and asked if I could go 150, he said no problem. So, I think I'm going to look at the dirt nap DRT HD's. They come in 150 grains. Should be able to get some FP's soon.
Work is really stretching me out. Plus it's been raining almost every day.

Ugh.

Picked up a different arrow rest, hope to get it on tonight.

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Old 02-14-2018, 01:33 PM   #89
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There are lots of choices in 150gr broadhead. Whichever one you go with, just make sure it is as sharp as it can be, and be able to put it in the right place on the critter!

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Old 02-14-2018, 02:20 PM   #90
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There are lots of choices in 150gr broadhead. Whichever one you go with, just make sure it is as sharp as it can be, and be able to put it in the right place on the critter!

Bisch


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That's the plan.
I don't shoot anything but SHARP broad heads.



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Old 02-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #91
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That's the plan.
I don't shoot anything but SHARP broad heads.



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That is why I shoot 2 blade heads (or 2 with a bleeder). I never got good at getting 3 blades as sharp as I like. I used to shoot Wensel Woodsmen's (now called something else as they sold the name) and also still have 3 125grn Magnus Snuffer SS's. But I am just never happy with the sharpness so they stay in my broadhead box.
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Old 02-14-2018, 05:53 PM   #92
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That is why I shoot 2 blade heads (or 2 with a bleeder). I never got good at getting 3 blades as sharp as I like. I used to shoot Wensel Woodsmen's (now called something else as they sold the name) and also still have 3 125grn Magnus Snuffer SS's. But I am just never happy with the sharpness so they stay in my broadhead box.
On my compound, I shoot thunder heads. They have replaceable blades, and I replace them as soon as they are dull.
I'm going to be shooting a 2 blade now, so I'll learn how to sharpen them.

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