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Old 02-12-2018, 08:40 AM   #1
Stoof
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Default Arrow cut length needed

Any body want to run some numbers for me?

Victory VAP Elite 350's I believe they are 8.7 gpi.
125 gr heads. I don't mind adding heavier inserts. Not so worried about speed.

2015 Hoyt Nitrum Turbo. 28 inch draw, 65 pounds. I know that the minimum cut length for this set up is right at 26.75 inches.

I can't get these things to work on OT2 and not come in weak. Still learning how to tweak this stuff.

Thanks,
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:49 AM   #2
enewman
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I would have thought you would be able to tune them if you have not bought them yet then look at the 300 spine this will allow you to move up on tip weight if you wish or just stay where your at with the 125 gr.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:55 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by enewman View Post
I would have thought you would be able to tune them if you have not bought them yet then look at the 300 spine this will allow you to move up on tip weight if you wish or just stay where your at with the 125 gr.
Bought and paid for a dozen already. I realized the 300's would be better too late. I am curious if any other calculators out there can get these things close. I am still learning to use OT2 and I don't want to start cutting shafts until I am sure. I may just need to play with them and not worry about what the program is saying.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:14 AM   #4
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yes, on that bow with your current set up that spine will show weak in the software. 300's at your draw length, weight and based off the overall aggressiveness of the Turbo makes the 300 the optimal static spine to start with. Mine tuned great with 300's a few years ago when I had it. are you exporting the bow data or just using the cam ratings in the software?
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:25 AM   #5
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What's this OT2 thing we're talking about?
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
yes, on that bow with your current set up that spine will show weak in the software. 300's at your draw length, weight and based off the overall aggressiveness of the Turbo makes the 300 the optimal static spine to start with. Mine tuned great with 300's a few years ago when I had it. are you exporting the bow data or just using the cam ratings in the software?
Yes, I am just exporting the bow data in the softwware. Is there a way to identify the different cams in the software or would I need to shoot through a chronograph? I do understand that the bow is not doing what the factory specs say.

Trail dust. On Target 2. It is software that does bow math for you.
http://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:34 AM   #7
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Ok. Don’t worry about the program. It is a starting point only. Just because it shows weak means absolutely nothing. Things you have to remember the program works off of data given by manufactures. Most arrows are off on the spine. And bows don’t meet ibo.

Easy test. You need one fletched and one bare shaft. Bow must be set at factory spec. This is very important. Back up and shoot the bare shaft and fletched same spot at 20 yards. Don’t worry about left or right. Need to see if it’s even or low and nock high.

If they have not been cut. You can do the cut and trim tuning method. Do this with one arrow only. This will also let you know if to weak when done.

Again programs are just starting point other then that that is it.

Or try to sell them. And get the 300 spine
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:37 AM   #8
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Here is an example of some arrows I tested. They are listed as 350 spine. As you can see they didnít make it. This is not uncommon at all. This is why I do dynamic tuning and I spine test all my arrows.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:44 AM   #9
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Turbo Cams aren't so bad with weak spine, they have very good nock travel which helps to tune a weak arrow.

Like enewman said, cut and tune is going to be best, add weight tot he back using bushings and maybe lighted nocks to stiffen the spine a bit.

Start by running the shaft centerline through the upper third of the berger hole instead of right through the center of the berger hole.

I can run the arrows when I get home tonight through TAP Pro and see what I can play with to get them a bit stiffer (like adding nock weight, etc.).

But if it were me, you know what I would do...
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat View Post
Turbo Cams aren't so bad with weak spine, they have very good nock travel which helps to tune a weak arrow.

Like enewman said, cut and tune is going to be best, add weight tot he back using bushings and maybe lighted nocks to stiffen the spine a bit.

Start by running the shaft centerline through the upper third of the berger hole instead of right through the center of the berger hole.

I can run the arrows when I get home tonight through TAP Pro and see what I can play with to get them a bit stiffer (like adding nock weight, etc.).

But if it were me, you know what I would do...
Post GRXH. It's a date.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enewman View Post
Here is an example of some arrows I tested. They are listed as 350 spine. As you can see they didnít make it. This is not uncommon at all. This is why I do dynamic tuning and I spine test all my arrows.
How do you spine test them. Dial indicators?
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Traildust View Post
How do you spine test them. Dial indicators?
Yes I use a ram tester I do this to static spine match
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoof View Post
Yes, I am just exporting the bow data in the softwware. Is there a way to identify the different cams in the software or would I need to shoot through a chronograph? I do understand that the bow is not doing what the factory specs say.



Trail dust. On Target 2. It is software that does bow math for you.

http://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/


They can be set up generic with single hard, double hard etc...... in the spine match tab. The best approach imo is what you are doing by setting up in the equipment tab then exporting it over to spine tab which gives more accurate background data to pull from. Just because they show weak doesnít mean they wonít be tunable. Most bows prefer a slightly stiffer spine but if you have slipped off the green just a shade it isnít a deal breaker.

There is a detailed explanation of the generic cam attributes in the help section but like I said you are on a better track imo with your current process. Keep at it.


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