Does anyone live in a metal building with living quarters. Thinking of building a 50x100 building with 50x50 living and 50x50 shop.I have seen and built a few that have turned out really nice inside and out. Just wondering if anyone on here has done it.
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metal building house/shop
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I've seen something similar. I've got a client - a retired lady who is an avid pilot. She built a 2800 square foot house inside a private hanger at Hicks Field in Ft Worth. I've been to visit a few times and it is really cool. The house has it's own entrance from outside but she can also walk out her door into the hanger, get into her plane and fly off. Neat setup.
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I'm working on one right now. When it's done it will be about 2500sf and about 800sf will be heat/ac/full kitchen/living room/2br/1 bath set off to one side/corner. The rest will be a screened in 14' eave height insulated metal building with screened walls up to 10' on 3 sides...main dining room will be outside and the party room will be outside in the screened in area. I will post pictures when I am done.
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My big fear is water leaks into the main living area. I have done everything I can to minimize the risk but still worry. Caulked all the screw holes/seams with top quality metal building caulk, roll insulation under the roof and wall sheets, mobile home roof coat on the roof deck of the "house" inside, icynene insulation in the ceiling and green rock on the ceiling just in case.
Don't even THINK of doing a house inside a metal building if you don''t insulate the metal roof...condensation drip will kill you...Last edited by cosmiccowboy; 12-02-2008, 09:16 PM.
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I sell metal buildings. We call what you want a "Barn-O-minium".
There is a very simple way to not get roof leaks. Don't blow out the neoprene washers on they screws and use the "Lap Tape". That is the mistake most people make.
Also spray foam it. That will tighten the building up and clog any leaks you may have.
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You can "frame" up the house with just metal building red iron and put a standing seam roof on it. Leave all the walls open for stud framing/ brick veneer and windows/ doors. More expensive but has a better finish look then wall panels. You could put up a wainscot in rock or brick and then use a flush hidden fastener panel on the wall. The bottom of the wall panel where it meets the foundation is hard to make bug prove. I hate metal building windows. There are different types of insulation systems you can use also. The simple saver, sag and bag, icynene, strap, or tradition over the top of the purlin with a vinyl or radiant barrier facing. Bay Insulation or Guardian can both help on the insulation, they are real slow right now. Lately on commercial stuff we have been putting up a 1.5 type b metal deck then a 3" polyiso rigid insulation with a sbs modified on top. Lifetime roof. Make sure you use the long life screws not the cheapos on the roof, lots of seam tape and dont over torque the screw. If you need a quote on a building let me know. I sell Star buildings, an NCI company, they own everyone now.
Clayton
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When you plan your interior wall make sure you have walls at the I beam columns. Then use 4" etal studs for that wall. You won't have to frame around the columns that way.
Reweld your purlane clips in the walls at 8' and you can frame your walls under them and screw your top plate up to them. That way your walls won't have to be so thick and you won't have to frame around them. Framing around the metal just looks half ..., like you didn't plan things out.
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