Just learning about FOC

[Gunnyart]

I’m just getter my familiar with the concept.
Is there a good resource to help me pick an ideal new foc arrow / broadhead combo?

My goal is better penitration, quieter bow, while possibly reducing poundage to around #60.

I shoot a Z7 28.5” at around 70# with Easton axis 300 and Montac G5 fixed blades now.

My shots on deer will be limited to 35 yards max with most at 20 yards.

[Gunnyart]

Correction they are Bloodline 330 8.7 gpi

[HeyMikey]

Following....

[Mudslinger]

Ashby readings will give you more insight into the FOC/arrow weight discussion.

Personally I switched to Black Eagle Carnivores with the rear insert weights they make and still use a 125 grain head. Going this route will probably make you use a stiffer spine. All depends on what % you want your FOC to be. Mine was 19%+ so I had to go with a .250 spine, but I also have 595 grains of arrow weight and shoot 70#'s.

[enewman]

https://shootingtime.com/archery/high-foc-arrows/

[enewman]

https://shootingtime.com/archery/how-to-build-hunting-arrow/

[enewman]

https://shootingtime.com/archery/building-hunting-arrow-flow-chart/

It’s not complete. Still working on it

[Rat]

Love the new website enewman!

For the OP, read what has already been written, enewman's link above are a good starting point. Especially his arrow weight per pound; for me 7(ish) grains per pound (@ 70 pounds draw weight) is about perfect. Mine are just a tad higher at 500 gr total, but you get the idea.

Yes, spine is a thing, but it isn't the be all end all of the arrow. If you use an arrow program chances are they will specify a stiffer arrow than what you really need. TAP Pro is very good about getting closer to the actual shaft than any others I have tried, that's why I use it instead of the others.

Anyway, the point is this. Don't buy a dozen brand new shafts, just use what you have and see how they work. The fact is, I have tuned 400, 340 and 300 spine arrows out of the same bow; it can be done. True, weaker spine is a little more finicky as to where it it is located in relation to the Berger Hole, but it can be done.

Read enewman's website, learn all you can and then build YOUR arrow!

[enewman]

Love the new website enewman!

For the OP, read what has already been written, enewman's link above are a good starting point. Especially his arrow weight per pound; for me 7(ish) grains per pound (@ 70 pounds draw weight) is about perfect. Mine are just a tad higher at 500 gr total, but you get the idea.

Yes, spine is a thing, but it isn't the be all end all of the arrow. If you use an arrow program chances are they will specify a stiffer arrow than what you really need. TAP Pro is very good about getting closer to the actual shaft than any others I have tried, that's why I use it instead of the others.

Anyway, the point is this. Don't buy a dozen brand new shafts, just use what you have and see how they work. The fact is, I have tuned 400, 340 and 300 spine arrows out of the same bow; it can be done. True, weaker spine is a little more finicky as to where it it is located in relation to the Berger Hole, but it can be done.

Read enewman's website, learn all you can and then build YOUR arrow!

Thanks rat. And I agree. Build with what you have and test. Been awhile since I’ve played with burger hole and arrow location. I may go back and write on this.

[Gunnyart]

Thanks I’ll look at that.