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Old 12-13-2017, 10:17 PM   #1
Bjankowski
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Default Cable Damascus Knife

Took a long break from the knife shop, I got burned out of mostly stock removal knife making. I've sold over 2000 knives the last 15 years and stock removal just became hum-drum. I had this cable laying around my shop for over a year and decided to fire up the forge and get hammering. I'll be back in the shop hopefully after the New Year (I have eye surgery Dec 19th) I should be ready to start swinging the forging hammer again. All my new work will be forged, and I appreciate all of you that I put off that were wanting knives. I'll be making my own San Mai, some Damascus and will be forging ball bearings steel and I'm sure other high carbons like W-2.
Again, to all of you that I put off, I appreciate your business and all of you that have been long time customers.
This one is going to one of my sons who wanted a small EDC.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:27 PM   #2
SamHarper
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That's pretty cool, Bob! I look forward to seeing your San Mai knives, too.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:54 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by SamHarper View Post
That's pretty cool, Bob! I look forward to seeing your San Mai knives, too.
Thanks Sam, I think the first one will be 1095 core with 15n20 jacket.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:14 PM   #4
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That should have lots of contrast!
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:44 PM   #5
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Well I have enjoyed the 2 that I got from you, can’t wait to see what you can do with a hammer.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:12 AM   #6
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I really like that knife. PM me a price for one just like it please.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:38 AM   #7
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Beings how I'm into steel erection and crane and rigging as my livelihood, I'd love to have a cable Damascus.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:47 AM   #8
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thats an awesome knife.
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:54 PM   #9
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How high of a carbon content are you looking for on your cable?
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:43 PM   #10
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Love that knife... shoot me a price on that style
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:29 AM   #11
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How high of a carbon content are you looking for on your cable?
There's really no way to tell the carbon content of cable or a means to measure it. On this one I quenched it in oil and it did not harden so I re-heated it and quenched it like I do W-2 or 1095 in my brine solution and it hardened to 62 HRC.

As far as some you guys asking for price, I'm not sure yet, depends of where I have to buy it and how big a piece of cable I can get. It's pretty easy to find 3/4" cable but I'd like to find some 1" and prefer some 1 1/2. I know that the time I have to spend forging them the price depending on handle material will be in the $200.00 to $300.00 range.
I know that if I'm going to put the time into forge welding steel I want to add some really nice handles on them. They will all be one of a kind knives.
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:15 PM   #12
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Do you make up your own brine solution? I want to try hardening a hoof rasp blade in brine instead of old once used Lou Anns peanut oil with corn meal floating in it.
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:58 PM   #13
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There's really no way to tell the carbon content of cable or a means to measure it. On this one I quenched it in oil and it did not harden so I re-heated it and quenched it like I do W-2 or 1095 in my brine solution and it hardened to 62 HRC.

PM sent sir
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjankowski View Post
There's really no way to tell the carbon content of cable or a means to measure it. On this one I quenched it in oil and it did not harden so I re-heated it and quenched it like I do W-2 or 1095 in my brine solution and it hardened to 62 HRC.

As far as some you guys asking for price, I'm not sure yet, depends of where I have to buy it and how big a piece of cable I can get. It's pretty easy to find 3/4" cable but I'd like to find some 1" and prefer some 1 1/2. I know that the time I have to spend forging them the price depending on handle material will be in the $200.00 to $300.00 range.
I know that if I'm going to put the time into forge welding steel I want to add some really nice handles on them. They will all be one of a kind knives.
Actually if you can get a mill cert itís real easy to measure the carbon content. Reason I was wondering if you was looking for a certain amount of carbon content is because we have tons to cable where I work and I could get you as much as you wanted. We have to know the carbon content of all our steel and strand and cable because the carbon content will tell us if itís going to be weldable or not.
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:10 PM   #15
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You could do a spark test and guestimate how much carbon is in it. Just get some 1060, 1080, and 1095, and grind each of them, noting the differences in the sparks. Then grind the cable with the same grinding belt or stone and see how those sparks compare.
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzzlebrake View Post
Do you make up your own brine solution? I want to try hardening a hoof rasp blade in brine instead of old once used Lou Anns peanut oil with corn meal floating in it.
I make my own
4 1/2 gallons water
5 lb. salt
32 oz. Dawn dish soap (blue)
8 oz. jet dry
Stir before each use and heat to 120 degrees.
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highbridge hand View Post
There's really no way to tell the carbon content of cable or a means to measure it. On this one I quenched it in oil and it did not harden so I re-heated it and quenched it like I do W-2 or 1095 in my brine solution and it hardened to 62 HRC.

PM sent sir
Thanks Austin I emailed you.
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoyt Man View Post
Actually if you can get a mill cert itís real easy to measure the carbon content. Reason I was wondering if you was looking for a certain amount of carbon content is because we have tons to cable where I work and I could get you as much as you wanted. We have to know the carbon content of all our steel and strand and cable because the carbon content will tell us if itís going to be weldable or not.
I would think .70 is about the lowest to make an efficient knife.
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:01 AM   #19
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Do you ever have any problems with cracking the blade using the brine quench?
The only one I ever quenched in plain water cracked about an inch back from the tip. I felt it all the way up the tongs and the rest of the blade did not seem to harden very much. I just use peanut oil now. I heat an 8"x4"x1/4" piece of flat iron to orange and drop into the gallon of oil to heat the oil then start heating the blade. Oil seems to be about 120 or so when I quench. I have no way of measuring but am guessing I get high 50's hardness since the file skates when tested. I then oven temper @ 375 for an hour. These rasp blade do get sharp and seem to hold a good edge. Some are harder to sharpen than other others but once sharp they stay that way. My knife making utensils and equipment are crude at best.
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzzlebrake View Post
Do you ever have any problems with cracking the blade using the brine quench?
The only one I ever quenched in plain water cracked about an inch back from the tip. I felt it all the way up the tongs and the rest of the blade did not seem to harden very much. I just use peanut oil now. I heat an 8"x4"x1/4" piece of flat iron to orange and drop into the gallon of oil to heat the oil then start heating the blade. Oil seems to be about 120 or so when I quench. I have no way of measuring but am guessing I get high 50's hardness since the file skates when tested. I then oven temper @ 375 for an hour. These rasp blade do get sharp and seem to hold a good edge. Some are harder to sharpen than other others but once sharp they stay that way. My knife making utensils and equipment are crude at best.
No, Since I started using my brine I've only found one hair line crack on a Damascus blade it that could have been from the stress from forging the blade. I've quenched tons of 1095 and W-2 that way. 375 degrees for one hour if you quenched it right is not enough, that blade will be too brittle. I don't ever temper anything under 400 degrees for at least two hours. I then do various tests on the blade if needed it will go back into the tempering oven for two more hours. TEST, TEST, TEST. Before I put the handle of it will test it on chopping antlers, dog bones and made sure the blade I'm selling to my customer is the best possible steel I can produce.
I sold over 2000 knives and I've never had one come back because it failed.
Did you see my the recipe I posted.

4 1/2 gallons water
5 lb. salt
32 oz. Dawn dish soap (blue)
8 oz. jet dry
Stir before each use and heat to 120 degrees.
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:51 AM   #21
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I have a lot of old cable the oilfield people left many years ago on my place in Archer county. If you need any just holler. btw, do you have pics of your forge, hammer etc?
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Old 12-17-2017, 10:37 AM   #22
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[quote=huntmaster;13021546]I have a lot of old cable the oilfield people left many years ago on my place in Archer county. If you need any just holler. btw, do you have pics of your forge, hammer etc?[/QUOTE

Thanks I appreciate it. As far as pictures I have a video on my Facebook page but you have to send me a friends request. Bob Jankowski.. I use a Majestic Propane forge like the ones you see in the show forged in fire. I use various hammers, tongs depending on what I need to do with it, and I have a several hundred pound anvil.
I was several years ago a full time blade smith when I retired, but was offered a consulting job with a six figure income that I just couldn't turn down. I still manage to make a 150 to 200 knives a year, I have a lot of long time customers that I try to keep happy.
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjankowski View Post
No, Since I started using my brine I've only found one hair line crack on a Damascus blade it that could have been from the stress from forging the blade. I've quenched tons of 1095 and W-2 that way. 375 degrees for one hour if you quenched it right is not enough, that blade will be too brittle. I don't ever temper anything under 400 degrees for at least two hours. I then do various tests on the blade if needed it will go back into the tempering oven for two more hours. TEST, TEST, TEST. Before I put the handle of it will test it on chopping antlers, dog bones and made sure the blade I'm selling to my customer is the best possible steel I can produce.
I sold over 2000 knives and I've never had one come back because it failed.
Did you see my the recipe I posted.

4 1/2 gallons water
5 lb. salt
32 oz. Dawn dish soap (blue)
8 oz. jet dry
Stir before each use and heat to 120 degrees.
I made a 5 gallon batch this morning and did my first blade in it. Worked great. Not a crack or any warpage at all. The only thing was the blade squealed like a little pig when it hit the brine.
Thanks for you help.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:28 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzzlebrake View Post
I made a 5 gallon batch this morning and did my first blade in it. Worked great. Not a crack or any warpage at all. The only thing was the blade squealed like a little pig when it hit the brine.
Thanks for you help.

If you hear it squealing you can do an interrupted quench, sometimes I do that. I like three seconds in the water and three out then plunge until cooled off to hand touch. The first three second is what's important with 1095 and W-2. I forgot how much it's supposed to drop in a second, somewhere around 900 degrees I think. I've been doing it so long, I don't even think about the quench.
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:40 PM   #25
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nice knife
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:49 AM   #26
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Nice work!
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