2018 Kawasaki Mule SX Roof Build

[nokturnal85]

switch box

heres the switch box/enclosure I will be installing under the roof. I will be painting it black and installing a 3 toggle switch panel to control cab lighting and light bars.

[nokturnal85]

Switch Panel!

This is the switch panel I will be installing in the enclosure to control my lights.

[nokturnal85]

Switch enclosure

Heres the switch box put together.

[sboudreaux]

Looks nice!

[Bill]

Nice! I assume 3x “ignition” was from whatever it was originally intended for?


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[nokturnal85]

Switch box mounted

Now that the switchbox is in place, the next step will be my "interior" lighting. I will be routing out 2x4s and installing 'recessed' green led light modules.

[nokturnal85]

Interior Lighting

got my 2x4s setup with green LED lights for the ceiling. These will be fed from a switch on the switchbox and used to light the cab of the mule.

[nokturnal85]

roof interior lighting

got the roof interior lighting mounted and now to wire everything up to switches. The next step will be installing a lightbar in the front and flood pods on the rear.

[nokturnal85]

Interior Lighting Pictures

Got the interior lighting wired up. Next up is LED flood light pods for the rear of the roof and a light bar for the front of the mule.

[Gulfcoastin]

Looks awesome, great work.

[nokturnal85]

Up to date schematic and wiring diagram

Here is where I am at in a scaled schematic form as well as the current wiring schematic.

DISCLAIMER: I am in no way an electrician or draftsman, so these schematics do NOT follow any standard at all whatsoever! These are meant to only give a better idea of what I have done.

[nokturnal85]

Light Bar

Got the Light bar mounted and wired up. Boy is that sucker bright! Now for the last chapter of this story, ordering and installing some 18 watt LED 4" flood pods behind the cab.

[nokturnal85]

UPDATE Power failure and remedy

Well unfortunately my 4 year old son decided to turn on the cab lighting to my mule and I never noticed it until my buggy would not start. Turned out that my stock battery died. I have since decided to install an auxiliary battery to power my accessories. I will be running an Interstate SRM-24 Deep cycle battery under the seat where the optional storage bin goes as it fits perfectly (with a little maneuvering) for my auxillary. It is rated at 75 AH and seeing as my accessories together only draw around 14 amps max, I should be able to run everything for around 2.5 hours and still not drop below the 50% recommended threshold of the battery. I will keep the auxiliary charged with a maintainer/trickle charger and am looking into possibly installing some sort of solar charger to make it virtually maintenance free. I replaced the stock dead battery with an Interstate IB14A-A2 and boy what a difference in starting. I will also be installing a dual volt meter that fits in a rocker switch spot on the dash as well as a kill switch so it (the digital volt meter) doesn't become a drain on either the main or auxiliary circuit. I will post pictures of the project as soon as it is completed.

[nokturnal85]

Pics

Here are some Pictures of the auxiliary battery and the light bar powered by it. If you look back at the previous picture of the lightbar I posted and compare it to the current output of the lightbar you will notice a considerable difference.

[nokturnal85]

Voltmeter install

At this point I have routed out the switch slots for the voltmeter and voltmeter on off switch, as you can see from the pictures. Access to the rear of the switch panel in the dash is easily made by removing the "Rubber Plug" in the storage compartment in front of the mule. This voltmeter will give me a constant digital readout of my auxiliary and main battery voltage which in turn will allow me to know when the auxiliary battery needs to be charged as well as what state my main battery is in. It will also allow me to see in real time the output of my "stator" on my main battery. The voltmeter will be controlled by a 3-way off-off-on switch that will work by breaking the positive leads from each battery. This is done to eliminate any kind of draw on either battery from the voltmeter as well as a way to simply shut the voltmeter off when not in use. simple 22 awg stranded wire will be plenty for the voltmeter as it does not draw a load other than a signal to read out battery voltage levels. I used an 1/8" drill bit to put holes in all four corners of the switch cutouts and then a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut out for each switch. I will upload a picture once the switches are installed showing the voltmeter working.