weight tubes or weight in general

[CrookedArrow]

Tell me mo?? I am thinking of inserting some CE weight tubes in the nock area to bring my weight up on my trad arrows for better penetration.

Do I need to offset it at the front? or just place the weight in the back and be done. Help me out

[DRT]

You don't want weight at the nock. Weight forward.

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[RickBarbee]

What is your current FOC, and how much weight do you want to add?

Rick

[CrookedArrow]

Originally Posted by RickBarbee

What is your current FOC, and how much weight do you want to add?

Rick

Truly not sure. I am wanting to add about 75 grains. I am shooting a 500 spine arrow and a 125 grain broadhead. Trying to get up to 600 total weight.

Ffont of center I am not sure of as I have not done that.

[jerp]

You can buy 75 grain brass inserts from Three Rivers

[DRT]

Need brand and model of arrow. Length of arrow from nock throat to front of insert. Fetching type. Also your bow info will help Rick. Your draw length as well.

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[RickBarbee]

(Preface - This is assuming you have a good tune/flying arrow to begin with, and are happy with it, except the weight.)

The weight tubes come in 3, 5, & 8 gpi.

I highly recommend using a tube weight, that will get close to what you want at "full length" inside the shaft (whatever that is).

Trust me, trying to put just pieces in there will eventually wind up being a PITA down the road, and probably sooner than later.

Depending on the length of your arrows of course, but the 3 gpi will probably get very close to your desired addition of 75gr.

Keep this in mind however - contrary to popular belief, adding the weight tubes will cause your arrow to shoot/act stiffer ( a heavier shaft of the "same spine & diameter" of that of a lighter weight shaft WILL shoot dynamically stiffer). I know there will be those who will argue against that, but I know what I'm talking about. (I'll explain it later if needed).

Once you add the tubes, you may need to add a little point weight to soften the dynamic spine of the shaft to get back to your current tune, so keep that in mind as a combination of (tube weight/point weight) for the overall weight addition.

Rick

[SwampRabbit]

Originally Posted by CrookedArrow

Truly not sure. I am wanting to add about 75 grains. I am shooting a 500 spine arrow and a 125 grain broadhead. Trying to get up to 600 total weight.

Ffont of center I am not sure of as I have not done that.

Just curious:

1) What draw weight are you at right now?
2) How well tuned are your current arrows?

I have used the GT insert weight adapters on my CE heritage 150s to bring the weight up for adjusting spine... which in effect has raised my FOC and my overall gpp (grains per pound draw weight.) I'm sitting at 540gr/11gpp so I'm pretty happy with where I am at.

I would, if I were in your position, look at finding a solution that doesn't involve special weight tubes (as it is, I am tired of having to buy those stinking adapters every time I have to build arrows) and just focus on a head/insert combination that gives you a heavier setup with the weight up front. The only time that seems to make sense to put in full length weights or double shaft is when you are hunting out of a really heavy boy looking to down an elephant or something (which has come up here from time to time )

The reason I asked that above is because if you want to get from 525 to 600, you might just consider going from 125gr heads to 200gr heads. For me, I just standardized on 175gr heads and that is one way I get an extra 50-75gr over guys who just like to use their 100gr fp/bh from their compound setups.

[BowBuddy]

In the future I would suggest get gold tip trad arrows and getting the nock and point inserts that you can screw the the PDF or PFD weights into for tuning. Bareshaft tune the arrows, I assure you will find the heaviest and fastest arrow you can shoot out of your bow. I have a 43 pound recurve and I shoot 470 grain arrows at 175 fps at my 27 inch draw. The bow is whisper quiet. I bought the gold tip trads the 1535, the 3555 weighed over 600 grains I didn't like the arc.

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[critter69]

Agree the gold tip fact weights are great ( easy) to work with, easy to add or remove any time you change your mind, or want to experiment. The weight tubes may blow your nock out if not cut the exact length, took me awhile it figure out why I was loosing nocks.

[Mojo]

I've got these installed in my arras...alls I know is they are heavier and will penetrate more (im shooting a 42# longbow)...you want to make sure they are cut to perfect length as to not shift when you shoot 'em...you buy them buy weight, 5grain, 8grain per inch...calculate your weight when you cut them to fit your setup...they do not affect the spine of the arrow either in case you're wondering....

[DRT]

I use the good tip weights in my ball eagle and warrior arrows as well.

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[DRT]

Roy from what we discussed your arrows are way weak. You'll need to go with a 400 spine.

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[Buff]

I have been using the weight tubes for 10 or 15 years.
Used weedeater cord before that.
Only problem I have is the nocks popping off If I hit something hard

[CrookedArrow]

Originally Posted by DRT

Roy from what we discussed your arrows are way weak. You'll need to go with a 400 spine.

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wait......................a lighter arrow?? Ok now im really confused

[DRT]

As the number goes down stiffness and grain per inch increases.

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[Bisch]

Originally Posted by CrookedArrow

wait......................a lighter arrow?? Ok now im really confused

The number 500, or 400, or 340 is the spine (stiffness) of the shaft. It has nothing to do with the weight of the shaft, although stiffer arrows of the same make tend to be a little heavier than weaker ones.

The number; 500, 400, 340, etc indicates the general amount of defection (how much the shaft will bend) in thousandths of inches when placed on two points a set distance apart (either 26” or 28”)and an exact weight (either 2# or 1.94#) is applied to the center of the shaft. So, the lower the number, the stiffer the shaft will be.

You said earlier in this thread you were shooting a 500 shaft, so the 400 that DRT is suggesting is stiffer..

I’m not sure what you need to be shooting, because I don’t know all the pertinent info, but if you are over 50# at your draw length, you will likely need a .400 spine shaft. If under 50# at you draw length, likely a .500 spine shaft. Nothing is written in stone though, as there are many ways to skin a cat when it comes to arrow tuning!!!!

Bisch


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[stickbowcoop]

Originally Posted by CrookedArrow

wait......................a lighter arrow?? Ok now im really confused

You should take 2 minutes and tell us your info; draw weight, draw length, bow type, arrow spine and length, point weight, etc. Without that we are all just really guessing how to help.

[DRT]

He's drawing a 55lb Sage at 29 or 29.5".

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[Bisch]

Originally Posted by DRT

He's drawing a 55lb Sage at 29 or 29.5".

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If this is true, he should definitely be looking at a .400 spine arrow!!!!!

Bisch


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[DTala]

I shoot a 57# R/D longbow, 27" draw.

Arrows are Gold Tip 35/55s at 31", 100gr brass insert, 200gr point( 160gr STOS broadhead and 40gr adapter). Shoots like a dart bareshaft, weighs 570grains total arra weight.

The same arras shoot lights out out of my 52# Bear Takedown recurve.

I have penetrated to the off shoulder thru the shield on a 225# boar with this set up.