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Old 03-30-2018, 04:58 PM   #1
JES
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Default Smoker Diameter?

Thinking about building my own smoker, what size pipe do yall think is best? Was thinking either 22 or 24.

Whats the size you think would be best?
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:07 PM   #2
MasonCo.
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Use what you have. Google barbeque pit dimensions there is a website that will calculate all your stuff to make it flow properly.
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:08 PM   #3
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http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:34 PM   #4
hog_down
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^^^ what he said. Very useful website. Will it be on a trailer or no?
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasonCo. View Post
Use what you have. Google barbeque pit dimensions there is a website that will calculate all your stuff to make it flow properly.
This. Far more important that you have the design and size ratios correct than worry about 2" of pipe diameter.

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Old 03-30-2018, 09:22 PM   #6
JES
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Not going to be on a trailer.

I’ll be buying the material, I don’t have any.

Understand about ratio, but my question was about diameter preference, sometimes 2” makes a difference!
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:25 PM   #7
b.a.saha
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I would suggest looking at some of the popular/reputable smokers sold commercially and see the sizes they are and go from there. Those guys would not be in business if the pits weren't functional and efficient
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:40 PM   #8
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If you’re looking for a backyard smoker on casters a 125gallon propane tank works great or go with 24” casing. Try to stay 1/4” or thicker on the tank you use and firebox I would try to stay in 5/16” on up to 3/8” or even 1/2”
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:51 PM   #9
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30"60"
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:00 AM   #10
JES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTU TX Hunter View Post
If youre looking for a backyard smoker on casters a 125gallon propane tank works great or go with 24 casing. Try to stay 1/4 or thicker on the tank you use and firebox I would try to stay in 5/16 on up to 3/8 or even 1/2
Great feedback, thanks.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:30 AM   #11
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If you use a propane tank cut your doors, everything but the corners. Let it cool overnight then finish. You run the risk of your doors "springing" if its all cut hot. Propane tanks are especially bad about it.
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:58 AM   #12
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I used 20" on mine, and wished I had used 24" now. Just to have another rack to put meat on.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvey View Post
I used 20" on mine, and wished I had used 24" now. Just to have another rack to put meat on.
This is what I'm thinking, I see a lot of 20" models, but that just seems too small.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:26 AM   #14
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Mine will be a 30" when/if I ever get done with it. I wanna be able to put a big whole hog on it. And it will be a hybrid type with optional trad very reverse flow.

The fish are biting, and there's hogs to be kilt. Gotta go!
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:09 AM   #15
Palmetto
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24" STD wall pipe (.375" thick) is the direction I would go. When you lay out your door, make the cut 1" below the centerline (see first picture). This will help maximize space if you are doing pull out grates. I also like 24" because you can more easily fit an upper pullout. There is just not enough room on 20" for useable double pullouts.

I would stay away from the propane tanks. They can be a pain to work with.

pics:
1. 20" pipe with doors layed out.
2. 24" pit with double slides
3. 24" pit installed
4. 20" pit showing small upper rack.
Attached Images
    
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:13 AM   #16
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I had a 20" and went to a 24"....that additional rack makes a world of difference.
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:44 PM   #17
JES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmetto View Post
24" STD wall pipe (.375" thick) is the direction I would go. When you lay out your door, make the cut 1" below the centerline (see first picture). This will help maximize space if you are doing pull out grates. I also like 24" because you can more easily fit an upper pullout. There is just not enough room on 20" for useable double pullouts.

I would stay away from the propane tanks. They can be a pain to work with.

pics:
1. 20" pipe with doors layed out.
2. 24" pit with double slides
3. 24" pit installed
4. 20" pit showing small upper rack.
I searched your threads and found your build along on the 20" when I first started this thread, you do great work, thanks for the tips.
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Old 04-04-2018, 01:06 PM   #18
bigbad243
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I would skip both and go 30"
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Old 04-04-2018, 06:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmetto View Post
24" STD wall pipe (.375" thick) is the direction I would go. When you lay out your door, make the cut 1" below the centerline (see first picture). This will help maximize space if you are doing pull out grates. I also like 24" because you can more easily fit an upper pullout. There is just not enough room on 20" for useable double pullouts.

I would stay away from the propane tanks. They can be a pain to work with.

pics:
1. 20" pipe with doors layed out.
2. 24" pit with double slides
3. 24" pit installed
4. 20" pit showing small upper rack.
Pits look great! Quick question, do you weld bullethinges on top of the flat strap itself to get a piece on top? Im assuming you cut the top and leave the door connected and weld on the strap and hinges before you cut the rest?
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Old 04-04-2018, 06:02 PM   #20
tremman78
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I built a 20", next will be at least 24"
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:08 PM   #21
Palmetto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTU TX Hunter View Post
Pits look great! Quick question, do you weld bullethinges on top of the flat strap itself to get a piece on top? Im assuming you cut the top and leave the door connected and weld on the strap and hinges before you cut the rest?
I make my own hinges using cold roll, & pipe.

first I cut the top all the way across.
then I lay my 1-1/2" flat strap on top, but stop 3/4" from the cut on both sides. I also pit my hinges on at this time.

then I do the same on the bottom.

then I make my side cuts. I usually leave it connected on all 4 corners overnight so it can cool off. come back the next day and cut it loose, and make sure the door opens correctly.

then I strap out the sides very slowly using clamps and a little heat on the flat bar. once done strapping, I like to tack the door to the pit do it can't open. maybe 10 spots all the way around.

then I start welding the strap to the door. moving around, and keeping the heat low as possible, making short welds. I don't even seal weld the strapping anymore.....too easy to warp! I just weld the corners, and a few spots in between.

after that's done, and cooled off, I cut the tacks loose, and clean everything up, and put my handles on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:40 PM   #22
TTU TX Hunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmetto View Post
I make my own hinges using cold roll, & pipe.

first I cut the top all the way across.
then I lay my 1-1/2" flat strap on top, but stop 3/4" from the cut on both sides. I also pit my hinges on at this time.

then I do the same on the bottom.

then I make my side cuts. I usually leave it connected on all 4 corners overnight so it can cool off. come back the next day and cut it loose, and make sure the door opens correctly.

then I strap out the sides very slowly using clamps and a little heat on the flat bar. once done strapping, I like to tack the door to the pit do it can't open. maybe 10 spots all the way around.

then I start welding the strap to the door. moving around, and keeping the heat low as possible, making short welds. I don't even seal weld the strapping anymore.....too easy to warp! I just weld the corners, and a few spots in between.

after that's done, and cooled off, I cut the tacks loose, and clean everything up, and put my handles on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the advice! I havent had one spring out too bad yet but we are about to tackle a 13x32 propane tank and are doing our homework as this one will have a lot of time and money into it.
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