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    Arrow building

    What all do I need to start building my own carbon arrows? I am trying to do this on a shoestring budget so if there are ways to save money and still get good results I would love to know.

    When you're tuning, do you leave the insert unglued in case you need to trim it more?
    Do most people bare shaft tune or paper tune?
    Do you retune with broadheads? How much might that alter tuning?

    #2
    Here is my shoestring budget. I use an Arizona Fletcher with good results. Takes 15/20 minutes to fletch a dozen arrows. Instead of purchasing a cutoff saw. I put a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel in my bench vice and then use a simple jig I built that I clamp to the work bench. It gives me very good repeatable results. So my only real purchase was the Arizona fletcher. I have built maybe 6 or 7 dozen arrows this way over the past 6 years.

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      #3
      I really don't think shoestring budget and archery go together.lol I have owned and tried every fletcher out there and finally bit the bullet and bought a Bitzenburger. I should have bought it first and I wouldn't have had the price of three of them tied up in the other budget ones. As stated above, there are lots of good DIY arrow saws.
      As far as tuning, I started out bare shaft tuning and one day decided to paper tune. Got the same results only lots faster as well as easier for me.As far as your inserts, you have to use a dab of glue of some kind or they will pull out in the target and you'll spend a lot of time hunting for them. I just put a dab of superglue right at the leading edge of the insert, then if you need to remove it to cut it, just pull your nock off and use a cleaning rod or any kind of rod to slide down the shaft and knock it out. People are going to tell you to just use a little hot melt. Heat and carbon arrows don't mix but that's for you to decide.

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        #4
        If you're budget conscious like I am, you might want to try building aluminum arrows at first. With carbons, you need a small cut-off saw to cut them to length. They sell them specifically for carbon arrows, but they're expensive. I've seen write-ups with pictures on how to make one yourself for much less, though. But with aluminum shafts, all you need is a small pipe cutter for $10 or so. Just remember to chamfer the opening of the point end when you're done cutting it (I use a small knife for that).

        I got a used Bitzenberger for fletching. You can buy feathers in bulk and get a feather chopper of your liking to cut them to shape, or just buy them pre-cut. For glue, I use the stuff 3Rivers sells for points and nocks and the fletch-tape for fletching. Just don't leave the arrows or the fletch-tape in the heat during the summer time or the adhesiveness will wear off.

        For real cheap, I've made bamboo arrows using the Home Depot 6' long, six-pack garden stakes. There's a thread on tradgang on how to make them. I use a coping saw to cut them to length, and use the scrap, left-over pieces of feathers cut from a chopper and cut them using scissors of all things. I then use a tube of Duco cement that you can get from Family Dollar to glue the fletching and the hot glue for points. For the nocks, I use the 2 or 3 coping blades duct-taped together for self nocks. The bad thing about these kinds of arrows, though, is that I have no idea what they're spine is. They sell spine testers, but they're pricey. There should be instructions somewhere online on how to make your own spine tester if you want to go that route, though. I only mention the bamboo shaft option as a dirt cheap budgeting option. I think starting out with making aluminum arrows may be easier, more consistent and still a bit more affordable than starting out with carbons.

        Edited to add that what I meant to say is: I think starting out with aluminum arrows may yield more consistent results concerning spine than with the Home Depot garden stake bamboo shafts, and yet still be cheaper than starting out with carbon shafts.
        Last edited by equin; 12-26-2013, 05:37 PM.

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          #5
          If I do decide to invest in an arrow saw, is the Weston a good one or should I go for the Apple?

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            #6
            I do the same as shough, and use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I just cut them close and then true them up with a disc sander at low speed with fine grit. No need for a disc sander though. You could make a very simple wooden jig to do the same. You would just have to rotate the arrow by hand, rather than the sandpaper rotating.

            For a fletching jig, a bitz is worth it in the long run but I know all about shoestring budget. Felix40 fletches most of his shafts by hand. As in, he does not use any kind of a jig....and he owns a jig. Are the results going to be as pretty? No. Will they shoot just fine? Yes.
            I personally do not recommend spending the money on actual fletching glue. I have always used Loctite liquid superglue. It's like $2.47 a bottle. I have had nothing but exceptional results with it.

            Feather burners are great...but not necessary. Choppers are pretty cheap. Like $20 from 3 rivers. They are also unnecessary. You can cut the feathers by hand with scissors. Stack 3 up and cut them at the same time.

            As far as tuning, I'm a fan of bareshaft tuning. It takes a little longer to learn but yields better results for me. As far as removing the inserts, you can always trim from the nock end before you fletch.

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              #7
              Originally posted by TXbowman View Post
              If I do decide to invest in an arrow saw, is the Weston a good one or should I go for the Apple?
              Never used a Weston. I own an apple as do three of my friends. We all get good cuts. DG

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