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    Duracoating tips?

    My plan is to duracoat my revolver this weekend. Long story short, thanks to Harvey it now needs refinished. It's completely taken apart, cleaned, sanded down, rust removed, etc. I know some people use duracoat just to change how their guns look, but this will be strictly for protecting the metal from further corrosion. I've watched about a dozen videos on youtube on people using duracoat on their own stuff. I have the aerosol kit with the degreaser included. Does anyone here have any experience using duracoat?
    How about on a revolver specifically?
    Do I spray everything except the internal mechanisms/barrel, or just what you can see once it's put back together?
    Is the degreaser spray they include worth using? Better brand to use?
    Any other little tricks to make the coating last longer?

    I'll also try to post before and after pictures on this thread and see how it ends up.

    #2
    I duracoated one of my rifles but that is the only experience I have with it. I took the rifle completely apart and coated but I did not coat any of the internals. The application was easy, I used a harbor freight airbrush. I used the flat tactical colors and also sprayed from about 15" away to prevent any sheen. I like the end result but I see a lot of druacoat that look too shiny or coated too thick and have orange peel on them.

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      #3
      I haven't played with the aresol but have airbrushed duracoat. It really is a pretty simple process. The only thing that is going to make it last is to make sure your piece is 100% clean and degreased. After you degrease use gloves to keep from getting your oils on the gun. Then lightly scuff everything your going to coat with Scotch brite. Do not coat your internals. Just everything on the outside. And let everything cure for a day before you put it back together. It takes duracoat up to 6 weeks to fully cure.

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        #4
        100% degreasing is critical to any firearm coating. I would do it the same way cerakote suggests which is soak in Acetone for a couple hours and then put it in the oven on 250 for 30-40 minutes to degas the metal and completely dry all moisture. If any oil is remaining it will show during the degassing and you then start over with the soak

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          #5
          the degreaser that comes with the duracoat works great. I agree with the earlier post about using rubber gloves to handle the firearm after it is degreased. Although, its not as critical for metal parts. duracoat sticks to metal very well. I like to use ear plugs to plug barrel and revolver cylinder, also. I've done several guns and the finished product always turns out nice.
          Attached Files

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            #6
            Along with having everything very clean I like to blast metal parts with #120 aluminum oxide to give the coating a good surface to adhere to. On plastic/synthetic parts and scopes I scuff with a scotchbrite.

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              #7
              How are yall going about taping a whole rifle off? I see that your bolts and all are painted so are you just spraying fully assembled or? How do you ensure fitment?

              Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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                #8
                Originally posted by bboswell View Post
                100% degreasing is critical to any firearm coating. I would do it the same way cerakote suggests which is soak in Acetone for a couple hours and then put it in the oven on 250 for 30-40 minutes to degas the metal and completely dry all moisture. If any oil is remaining it will show during the degassing and you then start over with the soak


                I have a heat gun. I’m assuming that will work for drying everything completely.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bmc09 View Post
                  the degreaser that comes with the duracoat works great. I agree with the earlier post about using rubber gloves to handle the firearm after it is degreased. Although, its not as critical for metal parts. duracoat sticks to metal very well. I like to use ear plugs to plug barrel and revolver cylinder, also. I've done several guns and the finished product always turns out nice.


                  Those turned out nice! I like the earplug idea. Definitely going to do that. Thanks.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by jmw View Post
                    Those turned out nice! I like the earplug idea. Definitely going to do that. Thanks.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                    Let me know if you have any questions or need help with anything. I don’t live far from you. I actually work in Baytown


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by bmc09 View Post
                      Let me know if you have any questions or need help with anything. I don’t live far from you. I actually work in Baytown


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                      Will do. Thanks.


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                        #12
                        Originally posted by jmw View Post
                        I have a heat gun. I’m assuming that will work for drying everything completely.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                        That will dry it but not completely degas and pull residual oils like the oven

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