Optics question (ffp or sfp)

[bmc09]

About to purchase a scope for a 6.5 creedmoor. Gun is mainly for hunting, but I'm also looking to stretch it out on the range (800-1000 yds). My budget is around $650. I've found a nice 6-20x50 second focal plane in that range and a 4-14x50 first focal plane.
My question is:
If I'm planning to adjust the scope to target for no hold over, does it make sense to buy the FFP?

Thanks


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[Tye]

If your going to dial for elevation every time, SFP will be fine. Having a zero stop IMHO is more important. I have uncapped turrets on one of my hunting scopes. You would be surprised how many times the turret is turned without you knowing from carrying the gun etc

[JakeGraves]

SFP is fine for hunting if you are dialing turrets. I usually run my ATACRs at full 25x or half 12.5x. At half magnification, your reticle marks will be twice the value. FFP is more simple but small hash marks disappear on lower magnifications.
I never dial wind so I always make sure of magnification for correct windage hold.

[Cajun Blake]

I too use SFP optics

[trophy8]

I find myself shooting on 3-12 power 90% of the time so I use FFP. If you only shoot on max power or don't use your subtensions then sfp is fine

[Outbreaker]

I use SFP but see the advantage of FFP, especially when measuring for a 13" spread.

Zero stop and Zero Set is far more important for me.

[-HIC-]

If you are like me, I use the highest magnification for group shooting at the range, regardless of distance to target. While hunting, I use the lowest power until I have a target in the scope and then turn the power up as needed to verify age, antlers, sex, etc. I have my hunting rifles setup to shoot PBR for whatever scenario I expect in the field.

This is a long winded way to say; whatever you prefer is fine. In your specific case I would buy the best glass in your budget and not worry about ffp or sfp.

Have fun!

[bmc09]

Thanks folks. Great advice. Good glass and zero stop/zero set are top priority then


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[DuramaxDude]

SFP is just fine especially if you are dialing for the shot. The FFP comes into play when you are using the reticle for ranging targets and using the subtensions for windage and elevation holds because the subtensions are true at all magnifications. That SFP will have one certain magnification where subtensions are true and it will be indicated on the magnification adjustment ring if you want to use the reticle for ranging and hold overs.

[kmon]

My biggest complaint with FFP is the reticle changes thickness with power, the lower the power the smaller/thinner the reticle is. My 50_ year old eyes have trouble picking up some as they become too small. In hunting I often have the scope on its lowest power setting and FFP making it difficult to find rules out FFP for a hunting scope. I have a couple but use pretty much just for target applications.

For a purely hunting scope that I might be dialing I want great glass, SFP with a reticle I can see, zero stop and locking turrets.

[meltingfeather]

Clarity and glass for the dollar is going to drive SFP every time.
Given your circumstances I would not consider a FFP scope.

[ckamp52]

I have a vortex ffp i may sell. Pm me for details if interested


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[elkaholic9292]

Not to ignite a powder keg here, but I’ve yet to find a scope in your price range that would track with precision or return to perfect zero every time. If you think about how finely tuned the instrument has to be to track a straight line along both the x and y axis with exact spacing between clicks. Now put a reticle in it that is so precise that it coincides with those clicks near perfectly, and put premium glass to bring the most out in optical quality. Assuming everything is perfect, your parallax adjustment needs to be smooth and tight. To do that in a mass produced scope is near impossible, and to get one that has been built to those specs is very expensive. My advice is to stay within your budget and buy a hunting scope with a good reticle you can do holdovers with and leave the turrets alone (SFP), or raise your budget pretty substantially and go (FFP).

[bmc09]

Not to ignite a powder keg here, but I’ve yet to find a scope in your price range that would track with precision or return to perfect zero every time. If you think about how finely tuned the instrument has to be to track a straight line along both the x and y axis with exact spacing between clicks. Now put a reticle in it that is so precise that it coincides with those clicks near perfectly, and put premium glass to bring the most out in optical quality. Assuming everything is perfect, your parallax adjustment needs to be smooth and tight. To do that in a mass produced scope is near impossible, and to get one that has been built to those specs is very expensive. My advice is to stay within your budget and buy a hunting scope with a good reticle you can do holdovers with and leave the turrets alone (SFP), or raise your budget pretty substantially and go (FFP).

You don't think there's an SFP that will adjust well and return to zero?


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[Radar]

My biggest complaint with FFP is the reticle changes thickness with power, the lower the power the smaller/thinner the reticle is. My 50_ year old eyes have trouble picking up some as they become too small. In hunting I often have the scope on its lowest power setting and FFP making it difficult to find rules out FFP for a hunting scope. I have a couple but use pretty much just for target applications.

For a purely hunting scope that I might be dialing I want great glass, SFP with a reticle I can see, zero stop and locking turrets.

Took the words right out of my mouth. I bought a Burris FFP to try out and I am glad I did not spend anymore than I did on it. For me SFP is the best option.