5/16 arrow question

[Dkincaid]

I have no idea what leopard wood looks like but it could be that the grain and spine varies at different locations the name makes me think it has splotches? If they spin test true and fly like crap I personally would give up and buy a nice set of cedars or Douglas fir. I see a lot of people making arrows out of different woods but I figure Cedar and fir have stood the test of time no need to reinvent the wheel.


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[MEsquivel]

Thats exactly what I figured.

[Draco]

Whether 5/15 or 11/32, the taper is the taper for the point is the same. If you have long point tapers on them then the shaft isn't getting tight to the point. The end of the wood shaft is hitting the inside of the 11/32 point keeping the back of the taper from getting tight. Cut half of the taper off and that should let the shaft slide into the point far enough that the shaft will be tight to the point.

[Briar Friar]

Maybe the way your broadheads are indexed on your shafts? I was just having the same problem with single bevels on carbon shafts. My BHs were at the 2&8 oclock position. I rotated the inserts and BHs went to 3&9 oclock. Issue went away.

[Jon Stewart]

Not sure how your broadheads are mounted but try mounting them with the blades at 1 oclock and 7 oclock instead of straight up and down or straight across.

[wytex]

I'm lost at how heavy your points are. We shoot 125 gr points for everything, broadheads and field points on a 50 lb longbow and a 60 lb longbow with no issues. They have taken deer, antelope, elk and moose with great penetration.
Try some tapered shafts, 11/32 down to 5/16 at the nock end. They'll fly like darts too.