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    Broadheads

    Alright guys, I finally got my bow tuned up to me. Now I'm looking for some advice on broadheads. I'm shooting with a heavy brass instert, which leave's me looking at 100 gn's for my tip.

    I'm considering 3 different broadhead's for the most part, and I'm mainly wondering what advantages disadvantage's a 2, 3, and 4 blade design offer, because the 3 I'm looking at are one of each.

    I've got a 100 gn Magnus 2 blade
    100 gn G5 Montec 3 blade
    and a 100 Gn Magnus 4 blade, maybe also a ST Razortrick 4 blade.

    Who shoot's what and why? Any advice?

    #2
    I use the two blade Magnus myself, along with a Walmart knock-off of the G5. Since there's not a lot of power behind a trad bow, you want less drag, which is achieved with a smaller cutting diameter/fewer blades. The heads I use offer both of these, although I prefer the 2 blade Magnus or Zwickey.

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      #3
      Any idea what amount of KE your set up is producing? You can never go wrong shooting a two blade - my guess is that what the large majority of guys around here use. I personally like a 3 blade, either Woodsman Elite or VPA. I can't really tell you an exact reason why - I have not killed enough animals with both 2 and 3 blade to make a good comparison of blood trails. I just like the way a 3 blade looks on the end of my arrow and I've not had a problem with penetration. Of course I've never stuck a 250lb hog or a moose with one either. For whitetails I think about any sharp 2 or 3 blade COC head will work great. I would stay away from chisel tips

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        #4
        G5

        Originally posted by Seacoal View Post
        Alright guys, I finally got my bow tuned up to me. Now I'm looking for some advice on broadheads. I'm shooting with a heavy brass instert, which leave's me looking at 100 gn's for my tip.

        I'm considering 3 different broadhead's for the most part, and I'm mainly wondering what advantages disadvantage's a 2, 3, and 4 blade design offer, because the 3 I'm looking at are one of each.

        I've got a 100 gn Magnus 2 blade
        100 gn G5 Montec 3 blade
        and a 100 Gn Magnus 4 blade, maybe also a ST Razortrick 4 blade.

        Who shoot's what and why? Any advice?
        I have always shot Montec G5. The fly straight and true. Only Issue I have is refletching a couple arrows during target practice.

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          #5
          I don't think you can go wrong with the Slick Trick Mags.
          I shoot the 100 gr.
          Arrowsmith is a sponsor here.......

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            #6
            Jerp, from the best of my ability to tell, using spine calc assumptions, I' around 27 flbs's of arrow energy. I need to put it on the chrono and actually calculate it out myself

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              #7
              Originally posted by "DOC" View Post
              I don't think you can go wrong with the Slick Trick Mags.
              I shoot the 100 gr.
              Arrowsmith is a sponsor here.......
              Looking mainly at cut-to-tip type broadhead's, which was why the Razortrick was the ST I was looking at. The magnum's look awesome, but I would rather cut to tip

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                #8
                Whoops, Just realized you are shooting traditional.....S
                orry about my input.

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                  #9
                  With a KE in that range I think I would go with a two blade. If you need a 100 grain screw-in, cut to tip head, your choices may be a bit limited. Three I can think of are the Steel Force Sabertooth, the MA II by Magnus and Silverflame. I'm sure there are others but those come to mind...
                  Last edited by jerp; 10-08-2014, 03:31 PM.

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                    #10
                    There's nothing like shooting a 2 blade from a trad bow.

                    Even a small bleeder on the BH will vary in penetration. At least in hogs it will.
                    I don't shoot 60# bows and I think that using a 2 blade gives me a better chance of getting a hole on both sides of the animal and better chance of recovery.

                    At the end of the day, shot placement will be the key, not the broadhead.

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                      #11
                      Just make sure your arrows are tuned and that whatever heads you pick are SHARP. That's all that really matters. I've seen broadheads that are so dull that you are essentially shooting a 1-1/2" wide field tip. RAZOR SHARP blades guarantee hemorrhaging and hemorrhaging is what kills. Pick the head you like and spend the rest of your time sharpening them.

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                        #12
                        I am really pleased with German Kinetics version of silver flame broadheads the original ones. I took a nice eight point with one last weekend using my Mentor by Wes Wallace recurve bow with 100gr silverflame got a clean pass-thru and cut ribs on both sides. They fly really well and are extremely sharp. Very pricey but last a long time and are easy to keep shaving sharp not throw away heads by any means.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by TxHrvstr View Post
                          I am really pleased with German Kinetics version of silver flame broadheads the original ones. I took a nice eight point with one last weekend using my Mentor by Wes Wallace recurve bow with 100gr silverflame got a clean pass-thru and cut ribs on both sides. They fly really well and are extremely sharp. Very pricey but last a long time and are easy to keep shaving sharp not throw away heads by any means.
                          No pics?

                          Bisch

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Bisch View Post
                            No pics?

                            Bisch
                            I'm not sure how to transfer pics

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by TxHrvstr View Post
                              I am really pleased with German Kinetics version of silver flame broadheads the original ones. I took a nice eight point with one last weekend using my Mentor by Wes Wallace recurve bow with 100gr silverflame got a clean pass-thru and cut ribs on both sides. They fly really well and are extremely sharp. Very pricey but last a long time and are easy to keep shaving sharp not throw away heads by any means.
                              Silver frame's are what I plan to shoot on out of state and big game hunts assuming they fly well, but I hunt in a very rocky place and any miss would be almost 100% guarantee of ruining a broadhead, which get's pricey at $30 a head. Maybe I'm missing something there though.

                              And don't get me wrong, I don't plan on missing, but that doesn't make me worry any less

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