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Old 05-23-2012, 08:51 PM   #51
huntinpool
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looks good. can't wait to see it with limbs on it.My 23" is super stable and a dream to shoot. Just ain't as fancy as that one is gonna be.
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:10 PM   #52
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after look'n at the picks seam's like ya got to be a machinist with a well outfitted shop.
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:25 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFRO View Post
after look'n at the picks seam's like ya got to be a machinist with a well outfitted shop.
Hey, thanks for the compliment.

Now I'll tell ya the truth - everything you see in those pictures has been done by hand with a file, a dremel tool, and sand paper.

Rick

EDIT:

P.S.
I'm thinking real seriously about flattening the sides of the grip some, and then building it back to the original shape with some wood scales, that match the inlays. Not sure though, because I really like the way this grip feels. We'll see.

Last edited by RickBarbee; 05-23-2012 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:34 PM   #54
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Wow Rick nice work
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:54 PM   #55
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Worked a little more on the inlays this evening.

I chose a piece for the strike plate area, that does not quite have as much character as the pieces for the other inlays. I did this for two reasons.

1 - I needed for it to be a little more structurally sound, because it will have a slot cut in it. This wood is Juniper wall board, and breaks pretty easy.

2 - It will be mostly covered with a material (likely velcro), so the character wouldn't show much anyway.

I have it fitting nice & flat into the window, but will need to epoxy it into place before I finish the outside edges of it since it runs all the way out rather than being framed in like the other inlays.

The piece in the upper area of the sight window is ready to sand & finish.

I hope to get to work on the limb pocket inlays this weekend.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:56 PM   #56
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Man , that is going to be a good looking rig. You get some HEX 6 or ACS Recurve or Max 1's on there and you may not be able to put it down.
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Old 05-26-2012, 03:11 PM   #57
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I got a chance to get the adapter plates, and limbs fitted to, and attached
to the riser today.



The bushings are made from pieces of 2413 aluminum shaft, with 2216 aluminum
inside. Made for a nice fit, both to the bolts, and the limbs.

Had a little trouble right off the bat. With the limbs seated in the plates,
and to the limb bolts, the way they are supposed to be, it was just awful, and
the bow measured 67.75" tip to tip.

The following pictures show the limb pockets in their original form, and then
the plates, and limbs fitted the only way the pockets would accept them.





Just horrible !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Time to make some adjustments.


I seated the limbs into the plates, and then set the plates into the limb
pockets (without the bolt in the way) where they needed to be, and marked the
spot for a new bolt hole. Drilled & tapped the holes, and here we go.


While in the proper position, I counter sink drilled the plates at the old
bolt holes, and used them to attach, and hold the plates in the correct
positions.


Then I ground the sharp corners off the plates, and made them fit the contour
of the limb pockets.






Now I'm happy !!!!

The bow is now exactly 66" tip to tip.


Unstrung profile.


Strung profile with a brace height of 8".

These limbs are Daass Kinetic medium length.
Todd, didn't you say they were 45# @ 28" ?
On this riser they are (46# @ 28") (48.5# @ 29"), and (51# @ 30")

Yep, I believe I'm on to something good here. Can't wait ta get her finished.

Rick
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:37 PM   #58
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Looks like you about have it whooped Rick. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Charley
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:10 PM   #59
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Looks good. You have done a great job fitting it all. The limbs are #46 @28" on a 25". If you are getting 46 @28" then you are getting no gain. You can just buy limbs the weight you want.

How does it shoot ?
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:29 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinpool View Post
Looks good. You have done a great job fitting it all. The limbs are #46 @28" on a 25". If you are getting 46 @28" then you are getting no gain. You can just buy limbs the weight you want.

How does it shoot ?
Thanks Todd.

I haven't shot it yet. I don't have the shelf finished out enough to shoot off it yet, but tomorrow I am going to put an elevated rest on it just to see how she behaves.

I've got high expectations.

Rick

EDIT:
P.S.

Todd, what tiller did you shoot with these?
I did not change anything on the limb hardware, and as she sets in those pictures the tiller is 0 (zero).

I'm leaning real hard toward a set of Border HEX6S's in the 60 to 65 lb draw range. Anyone want to loan me $519.00 ?

Last edited by RickBarbee; 05-26-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:09 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Thanks Todd.

I haven't shot it yet. I don't have the shelf finished out enough to shoot off it yet, but tomorrow I am going to put an elevated rest on it just to see how she behaves.

I've got high expectations.

Rick

EDIT:
P.S.

Todd, what tiller did you shoot with these?
I did not change anything on the limb hardware, and as she sets in those pictures the tiller is 0 (zero).

I'm leaning real hard toward a set of Border HEX6S's in the 60 to 65 lb draw range. Anyone want to loan me $519.00 ?
Rick, I shoot even tiller on all my bows. I have shot them 1/8-1/4" less on bottom in the past. I shoot 3 under with even tiller now though.
I want some of those hex6 myself. They have great. Reviews and really good performance.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:36 AM   #62
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Todd, I shot the bow for a while this morning (around 50 shots).

I didn't really have any arrows spined right for it. All were either over, or under, so I opted to do my testing with the overs.

These arrows are what I shoot from my 68# BW PMA off the shelf, but using the elevated rest I was able to get them to shoot with fairly acceptable flight, even bare shaft.
This bow is 50# at my draw.

Very quiet. The only noise I noticed out of the ordinary was the sound that the NAP Center Flipper makes while springing. Other than that VERY Quiet.

Smooth on the draw beyond belief, but I'm used to shooting much heavier, so that could be a factor there.

VERY quick considering it is only 50#, and I was shooting a 615gr (12.3 gpp) arrow out of it.

My point on with it right now is 40 yards, which is 10 yards farther than with the 68# BW. Very good considering I am shooting 3 under. It's not as fast as the BW, but not much slower. The point on difference is more due to the elevated rest, and the almost square nock set.

I'm going to chronograph it later to see some actual numbers (probably tomorrow).

I know this - if the limbs I settle with perform anywhere near what these loaner limbs do - at the weight I'm shooting for they are going to be super high performers.

Rick
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:28 PM   #63
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Well done, Rick... very well done.
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:54 PM   #64
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Cool deal Rick, those CC CARBONS have been good performance limbs for me. With those limbs on my 17" riser (53#) my hunting arrow was shooting 225 fps. I have several sets of them. Can pick them up for $150 or less most of the time. My SKY double carbon/ foam limbs are a little faster but also a little bit louder. Foam cores just have a different sound, not nessasarily louder but different.

Hang on to them as long as you need to. Those are mostly wall hangers. I have a set of longs that are 1# heavier that I'm using for hunting anyway.

Can't wait to see it all finished and painted. It's going to be one of the best looking WARFS out there.
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:14 PM   #65
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Thanks Chip.

Todd, 20/20 hind sight, but after doing more research & reading on TT, I discovered a way to utilize the ILF limbs without having to use the adapter plates, or machine a receiver into the riser. Turns out you can do the same thing, and produce a perfectly functional rocker point with just a bolt & some washers.

The only draw back to the bolt & washers is it eliminates the quick detach feature, and you have to remove two bolts to remove the limb. No biggy.

I'm going to leave this one as is, but may do another sometime in the future with one of my Firecat risers, and if so I will use the bolt attachment instead of the quick detach. I just think it looks better for the limbs to be down in the pockets. Functionality should be the same.

Rick
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:40 PM   #66
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Worked a little more on the limb pocket inlays this afternoon.

I made a good template of the inlay areas.
Then I picked out the character areas of the wood, that I wanted to use.
All will have knot holes in them.

I have them all marked off, but this is the only one I have cut out, and fitted into the riser at this point.

The wood will be quite a bit darker when the sealer is applied. This one is sanded, and ready to be epoxied in, and sealed.

It is just laying in there right now. I won't epoxy them in until I have the
riser painted.



Rick

Last edited by RickBarbee; 05-27-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:45 PM   #67
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I may just send my next one to you. Great job so far.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:06 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinpool View Post
I may just send my next one to you. Great job so far.
Thanks Bro.

Before you decide to do that, you may want to see the finished product. LOL

Rick
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:04 PM   #69
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I now have all of the inlays cut out, fitted to their pockets, and sanded for finish.





I still have the wood scale for the strike plate area to finish, and then the riser will be ready for it's final skin.

Rick
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:47 PM   #70
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I've decided to do the adjustable strike plate a little different than originally intended.

I decided to double stack the scale, and then sand it to 3/16" past center





After I get them epoxied in place, I will then drill a hole through the center piece the same size as a cushion plunger. The hole in the wood will be slightly larger, and the hole through the riser will be tapped/threaded.



The bolt will be counter sunk into the right side of the riser, with an adjustment capability of taking the strike plate end from 3/16" past to 1/8" before center, and will have a set screw (also counter sunk) on top of it to lock it in place once adjusted.

I will cover the strike plate end of the bolt with the fuzzy side of velcro.
Yes, I could use a cushion plunger, but in order to keep the bow legal (no moving parts) for some of the trad shoot I will be using a solid bolt locked into place.

I decided to do it this way to make it a little easier to accomplish, easier to adjust, and improve structural integrity of the mechanism.

Still have some cosmetic work to do on & around the scales.

Rick
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:14 PM   #71
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Looks fantastic so far. Awesome job.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:24 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Meloni View Post
Looks fantastic so far. Awesome job.
Thanks Ron.

I took a break from strings, and did quite a lot to the riser over the long weekend last weekend, but now I'm back to building strings, so I just have to grab a few minutes here & there when I can to work on the bow.

Gettin close though, and now I have to start tryin to save up for some limbs.

Rick
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:54 PM   #73
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I have about 98 screws and Allen set screws. I had to buy a box of 100 for my DAS bows to shoot of shelf. I can send you a few if you need them. I couldn't find the right size at any store around here. No charge ! Just let me know. Mine are 1/2" x5/16 fine thread , same as the current plunger hole.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:56 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinpool View Post
I have about 98 screws and Allen set screws. I had to buy a box of 100 for my DAS bows to shoot of shelf. I can send you a few if you need them. I couldn't find the right size at any store around here. No charge ! Just let me know. Mine are 1/2" x5/16 fine thread , same as the current plunger hole.
Thanks Todd.

I've already got it covered
Using a brass allen head for the inner adjustable, and a black anodized steel for the outside set screw.

I've got to do a little more work on the stacked scale, and get it epoxied in place. Once I get that done I'll take some pictures of the whole adjustable strike plate mechanism.

It's workin out pretty cool, and look nice too.

Rick
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:49 PM   #75
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Did a little more work on the riser this evening.

The following picture shows the double scale setting in place with the hole drilled through it, and through the riser. The hole in the riser is tapped to 5/16" NF thread.


The next picture shows the bolt that will be screwed into the riser. The bolt has a verlcro cap on it.


Face view of the bolt in place.


When screwed all the way out, it is quite a bit outside center.


When screwed all the way in flush, it is 3/16" inside center.


Showing the hole, and inset allen screw from the right side.


Still have a lot of finish/cosmetic work to do, and it will look quite different from this when I am done.
I hope to be able to get to town tomorrow for the rest of the materials I need to complete the riser mod. Maybe I'll get it finished this weekend.

Rick
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:08 PM   #76
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Can't wait! Most impressed.
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:44 PM   #77
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Awesome jOb so far!
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:54 PM   #78
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Great Project, looks very nice
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:59 PM   #79
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Thanks again guys.

I worked on the riser more today.

I have all of the inlays in, and have the skin on the riser.

3 coats of black primer, sanded smooth, and then 3 coats of the black truck bed liner. Some folks may not like it, but it looks darn good to me , and it will be a very tough finish to chip, peel, or scratch.

I'll add pictures tomorrow sometime, when I get done cleaning it up.

Rick
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:16 PM   #80
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Can't wait to see it.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:11 PM   #81
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Okie Dokie. The riser is finished.

It's still wet, and I am going to let the finish harden for a few days before I put limbs on it,
and shoot it any.

Didn't turn out quite as good as I had hoped for, but pretty good for all done by hand,
and I'm happy with it.















Once the finish hardens to suit me, I'll put them limbs on it, and post some results
from the shooting.

Rick
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:34 PM   #82
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Looks really good! Its got me contemplating a re-work on my Bear Magnum
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:34 PM   #83
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Flippin' sweet!
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:49 PM   #84
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That's pretty nice, Rick!

Good job.

Bisch
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:43 PM   #85
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Thanks again.

I couldn't stand it.

Had to put the limbs on it, and put the shelf material on, to check out the adjustable strike plate.

Works good.

Only thing I don't like so far is the finish is a lot shinier than I wanted it to be.
I can live with it.





Still haven't shot it yet, but I'll do that in a couple of days.

Rick
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:09 PM   #86
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Rick, what brand of bedliner did you use? It looks great!
Ronny.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #87
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Hey Ronny. I used the Duplicoat Bed Armor.

Be fore warned if you decide to use any bed liner - they are all very runny, and hard to work with except when putting it on a flat horizontal surface. Go very light with each coat, and still be prepared to do some touch up. I've got several spots on this one that need some attention due to some run.

Rick
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:31 PM   #88
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Lots of guys use DuraCoat paint. It is very flat finish and tough as well. The early DAS limbs were painted with it in several camo patterns.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:48 PM   #89
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Cool project Rick, wear the helmet cam when shooting for us
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:57 PM   #90
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Did a little cosmetic work this evening.

I did not like the shinny finish on the black, so I dulled it down some.
Makes the wood stand out a lot better I think.





I also didn't trust the threaded aluminum for the adjustable strike plate,
so I drill it out, and installed a threaded steel sleeve for it to run in.
Got it reinstalled, and got the locking screw installed on it.





I shot the bow some this evening, and it shoots awesome, even with arrows,
that are much to stiff for it.
I'm gonna dig through my arrows, and find some that will closer match it in spine,
so I can get it fairly tuned/dialed in before I chronograph it, but I can tell it's gonna
be fast, and that is with these 46# loaner limbs.

Rick
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #91
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Okie Dokie. Did some chronograph shooting a bit ago.

I don't know if this is good for these limbs, or not, but I was impressed.

Limbs - DAS Kinetic mediums - 46# @ 28" - 50# at my draw of 29.5"

10 shot average shooting fingers using target form, and shooting for accuracy.

The arrows are as close as I could find to match the bow, and still nowhere near what it needs.

Arrow 1 - 80/85 spine wood hex shaft - 570gr - 11.4gpp - 10 shot average FPS 181.1

Arrow 2 - Goldtip 5575 - 405gr - 8.1gpp - 10 shot average FPS 210.6

Like I said, I don't know if those numbers are good, or not so good for these limbs, but I was impressed.

What really impressed me is how quiet the bow shoots, even with the lighter weight arrow. There was no noticeable difference in noise from one arrow to the other. Both very quiet.

Rick
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Okie Dokie. Did some chronograph shooting a bit ago.

I don't know if this is good for these limbs, or not, but I was impressed.

Limbs - DAS Kinetic mediums - 46# @ 28" - 50# at my draw of 29.5"

10 shot average shooting fingers using target form, and shooting for accuracy.

The arrows are as close as I could find to match the bow, and still nowhere near what it needs.

Arrow 1 - 80/85 spine wood hex shaft - 570gr - 11.4gpp - 10 shot average FPS 181.1

Arrow 2 - Goldtip 5575 - 405gr - 8.1gpp - 10 shot average FPS 210.6

Like I said, I don't know if those numbers are good, or not so good for these limbs, but I was impressed.

What really impressed me is how quiet the bow shoots, even with the lighter weight arrow. There was no noticeable difference in noise from one arrow to the other. Both very quiet.

Rick

Rick, this is Arvin. If you have a big open field and need some exercise or use your bicycle.
Shoot those same arrows at 45 degrees at your draw length
and see how far each arrow shoots. For me, in a test like this a 75 gn. lighter arrow shot the same distance.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:47 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deb View Post
Rick, this is Arvin. If you have a big open field and need some exercise or use your bicycle.
Shoot those same arrows at 45 degrees at your draw length
and see how far each arrow shoots. For me, in a test like this a 75 gn. lighter arrow shot the same distance.
Hey Ugly.

I just happen to have a place to do that.
Don't know how soon I'll have time, but I'll sure try to get it done.
Been wanting to do a test like that for a while anyway.

I can tell you this - shooting into the hay bale (very tight round bale, that I have a 4" banding strap on pulling it even tighter), from 20 yards the wood arrows buried into it about 3/4 their length. The carbons buried to the fletching. Of course it could have been the finish, and diameter difference, that made the difference.

Rick
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:57 PM   #94
huntinpool
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Okie Dokie. Did some chronograph shooting a bit ago.

I don't know if this is good for these limbs, or not, but I was impressed.

Limbs - DAS Kinetic mediums - 46# @ 28" - 50# at my draw of 29.5"

10 shot average shooting fingers using target form, and shooting for accuracy.

The arrows are as close as I could find to match the bow, and still nowhere near what it needs.

Arrow 1 - 80/85 spine wood hex shaft - 570gr - 11.4gpp - 10 shot average FPS 181.1

Arrow 2 - Goldtip 5575 - 405gr - 8.1gpp - 10 shot average FPS 210.6

Like I said, I don't know if those numbers are good, or not so good for these limbs, but I was impressed.

What really impressed me is how quiet the bow shoots, even with the lighter weight arrow. There was no noticeable difference in noise from one arrow to the other. Both very quiet.

Rick
I would say your getting some good performance out those old things. At 10 gpp you would be around 190 and that is above avg speed compared to most standard bows. I shoot those limbs on my 17" riser (#53) and with a 390 gr arrow have chrono'ed 225fps. Some hog killin suckers for sure.

I love the CC Carbons, quite , fast and stable. Plus you can pick up good limbs for $150-$200 . They are only about 7-10 fps slower than my $675 Sky double carbon/foam limbs at same weight.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:14 AM   #95
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Rick, how did you dull down the finish? I like it.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:33 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2h View Post
Rick, how did you dull down the finish? I like it.
3 coats of satin clear poly & #0000 steel wool lightly worked over the surface after dry.

Another note to the project:

I found a set of 67# @ 28" Firecat limbs hiding out in my closet.
I am going to modify them with the TradTech ILF Limb Hardware Detent Assembly Kit, so they will work on this riser.

I'm just doing this, so I can shoot a draw weight I want while I wait until the time I can afford to buy a set of Border HEX6S limbs for this thing.

The Martin Firecat limbs are a time proven high performance design from the Damon Howatt era of design, so they should work well for me in the interim.

Basically, when I get done fitting these martin limbs to the bow, I will have a 66" Martin Lynx recurve, but with an ILF limb attachment instead of the old ball bearings.

Rick
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:02 PM   #97
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I got the ILF conversion done on the Martin limbs, and have them fitted to the riser.
I'll take some pictures of them after I get done with the overlays I am putting on them.

They still make a 66" bow, have a zero tiller, and are 63# at my draw.
I think they are gonna work out pretty good.

Rick
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:44 PM   #98
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Pics and stats. Can't wait to see it.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:41 PM   #99
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Well, I guess I'm finished with it now.

These limbs are temporary until I get the ones I want.

Here are the old Martin limbs before I started the ILF mod on them.
They were in pretty sad shape. Camo painted, and pretty beat up.







In the following picture, note the wedge that is on the bottom of the limb
butts. They had to be removed down to the glass.


Here we are with the limbs all cleaned up, refinished, and an overlay on the
limb butts to spruce them up a bit, and offer a counter sink for both the ILF
bolts, and the limbs bolts. It didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped for, but
it's done.










On the riser.



I'll wait a couple of days for the finish to set up well before I shoot it,
and then I'll get some performance data posted.

It is a 66" bow, and is 63# @ my draw of 29"

As said earlier - these limbs are temporary, until I can afford a set of Border HEX6S's

Well, that's it. Other than a little touch up after the finish hardens, she is done.

Hope you enjoyed my build along.

Rick
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #100
CM Sackett
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Well done, Rick... it is a beautiful "custom" weapon.

-Sackett-
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