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Old 02-04-2018, 10:47 PM   #51
huntinfool
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So I just read the rest of this thread. I'll be looking for the you tube videos. I've always shot vanes ( compound) and think I'd like to try it with the ILF ( btw it's a Hoyt riser and Black Max II limbs)
Currently it has a flipper rest. Do I need to remove this rest or can vanes be shot out of it?

So many questions since I'm so new.

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Old 02-05-2018, 12:18 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by huntinfool View Post
I've always shot vanes ( compound) and think I'd like to try it with the ILF ( btw it's a Hoyt riser and Black Max II limbs)
Currently it has a flipper rest. Do I need to remove this rest or can vanes be shot out of it?

So many questions since I'm so new.

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That little Hoyt Excel riser is a darn good riser, especially for the price.
It's what I was shooting prior to getting the new JC Optimus.

If those are medium length limbs, you're likely going to find, that around an 8.75" brace height is going to work best for you, unless you have a short draw (under 28"), then somewhere around 8.25" will work well.

The flipper rest will make it much easier to tune, and shoot if you are going to use vanes.

You can shoot vanes off the shelf just fine if you're willing to work at getting it done, but I don't recommend jumping into tackling that since you're just starting out. Use the rest until you start getting a good handle on things.

The Excel riser really isn't designed to shoot off the shelf, so even if you are going to shoot feathers, and shoot them off the shelf, you will need to add a pretty good bump on it.
Easy to do. Give me a shout if/when you want to try it, and I'll help you out with it if needed.

Rick

Last edited by RickBarbee; 02-05-2018 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:09 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
That little Hoyt Excel riser is a darn good riser, especially for the price.
It's what I was shooting prior to getting the new JC Optimus.

If those are medium length limbs, you're likely going to find, that around an 8.75" brace height is going to work best for you, unless you have a short draw (under 28"), then somewhere around 8.25" will work well.

The flipper rest will make it much easier to tune, and shoot if you are going to use vanes.

You can shoot vanes off the shelf just fine if you're willing to work at getting it done, but I don't recommend jumping into tackling that since you're just starting out. Use the rest until you start getting a good handle on things.

The Excel riser really isn't designed to shoot off the shelf, so even if you are going to shoot feathers, and shoot them off the shelf, you will need to add a pretty good bump on it.
Easy to do. Give me a shout if/when you want to try it, and I'll help you out with it if needed.

Rick
Thank you for the reply. I do have a shorter draw length, in a compound, but don't remember what we said it was in the recurve. I'm certainly going to adjust the brace height. I think I'll start with the flipper rest and go from there. Since I don't get home until after dark, I'm working on setting up a range that I can shoot after dark. Hopefully that will keep me shooting/ practicing.
Thank you for all of your information and guidance. Found your videos on YouTube so I'll be watching them.

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Old 02-05-2018, 07:01 AM   #54
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Nice bow huntinfool. I agree with Rick, if you want to shoot vanes I would leave the rest on.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:17 PM   #55
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So, I took your advice Rick and adjusted my brace height to just a tick over 8.25" ( meant to get it exact, but I was rushing to use the daylight I had). That definitely made a difference in how it sounds. However I have a buzzing sound from the top limb. It kind of sounds like a washer rattling.
So I see there are two bolts on the limbs. What are these for? Adjusting poundage? Taking out the rattle? Or something else?
BTW, I shot two arrows at 5 yards and 10 yards. Both arrows were touching.
I guess I did good?

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Old 02-05-2018, 09:47 PM   #56
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So I decided to try turning the larger bolts and the top one turned almost one complete turn and the bottom didn't move at all.
Haven't gotten to shoot it since I moved it, but I thought I'd wait for some input.
Also, I put a scale on the bow and Drew to my draw length and I'm not even getting 40#.
These are 45# limbs.
So I guess I need to look for heavier limbs.

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Old 02-05-2018, 10:24 PM   #57
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Damian,

the small bolts are the retainers for the ILF fittings in the limbs.
The rattle you are hearing could be those fittings.
Remove those small bolts, and under them you will find a spring, and a pin.
Do not try to remove the ILF insert itself.
After you get the springs, and pins out, stuff some vaseline in the bolt holes,
then reinstall everything.
Don't over tighten the bolts.
That should fix the rattle problem, unless it's the limb bolts backed off to far.

The large head bolt are the limb bolts, and they are what you use to adjust tiller & draw weight.
They have locking screws in holes on the belly side of the riser, and they have to be loosened before you can turn the limb bolts.

Unstring the bow, loosen the locking screws (back them up pretty good), then turn the limb bolts all the way down.
After you have that done, string the bow back up, and check the tiller. Just measure from the string to the belly side of the limbs right at the riser.

Since you are just getting started with it, "IF" the tiller measurements are anywhere from even to 1/4" more on the top limb, tighten those locking screws down, and get back to shooting.

Do that, lets see where it goes, and we'll go from there after we see.

Rick

Edit for a P.S.
Those limbs are rated for draw weight on a 19" riser.
On a 21" riser they will usually be lower in draw weight,
BUT
Check the draw weight again after you do the bolt adjusting.
If those limb bolts were backed off much, that could be why the draw weight is lower than expected.

Last edited by RickBarbee; 02-05-2018 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:34 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
Current draw weight is 69.5# at my 29.5" draw.

Arrows are:

Widowmaker Smash .300's. Company out of Australia.

These shafts use hard aluminum Outserts weighing 40 gr, that are tapered to the shaft from the mid point back.

The outsert weight gets spit between the point, and the shaft.
25 gr to the point.
15 gr (tapered half) to the shaft.
This is due to the outsert being 1" longer than the spot where the shaft bottoms out inside of it.

The actual shaft length is 30.25", and they have to be calculated that way for dynamic spine, and FOC due to the extra 1" / 20 gr of outsert added to the point weight, which makes them measure 31.25" to back of the actual point.

175 gr points with two 5 gr brass washers,
plus the 25 gr of outsert = 210 gr of actual out front weight.

6" wraps with 3 X 4" Marco Soft Vanes.

.166 GTO Goldtip nocks.

Total weight 640 gr / 9.3 GPP.

FOC = 14.4%.

These are a little on the weak side in dynamic spine, but I need them that way to help get vane clearance, and they shoot great.

I don't cant unless I have to.

Rick
Fantastic! Thanks for the breakdown Rick.

Byron
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:20 AM   #59
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Rick,
Yes I believe the limb bolts are turned way out. I can stick my pinky finger between the limbs and riser. So I think that's where I need to start. I was measuring the brace height from the string to the belly of the handle ( grip).

What I need to do is measure the brace height from the string to the limb at the riser? That measurement should be the 8.25"?
Or I should just measure both top and bottom and get the top 1/4" more than the bottom?

I really appreciate your help. This has been a long time coming and I'm finally going to put some serious effort into shooting a recurve proficiently enough to hunt with it.
( Mind you I have killed two rabbits with a recurve that my dad and I ate on a hunt)
But I think y'all know what I'm talking about.
Thanks again.
Damian

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Old 02-06-2018, 09:14 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinfool View Post
I was measuring the brace height from the string to the belly of the handle ( grip).
That is correct for brace height measurement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinfool View Post
What I need to do is measure the brace height from the string to the limb at the riser? That measurement should be the 8.25"?
Or I should just measure both top and bottom and get the top 1/4" more than the bottom?
This is correct for measuring for tiller, but the measurements will probably be somewhere in the vicinity of 6.25 to 6.5 inches at these points, and yes, if the top is more it should be no more than 1/4" more than the bottom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinfool View Post
I really appreciate your help. This has been a long time coming and I'm finally going to put some serious effort into shooting a recurve proficiently enough to hunt with it.
( Mind you I have killed two rabbits with a recurve that my dad and I ate on a hunt)
But I think y'all know what I'm talking about.
Thanks again.
Damian

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You're quite welcome.
I'll help all I can, as will many others here.

Rick
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:31 AM   #61
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Edit for a P.S.
Those limbs are rated for draw weight on a 19" riser.
On a 21" riser they will usually be lower in draw weight,
BUT
Check the draw weight again after you do the bolt adjusting.
If those limb bolts were backed off much, that could be why the draw weight is lower than expected.
I was going ot comment on this because my Black Max 2.0 limbs are rated for a 17" riser. His are different than mine though so maybe his are for a 19". Either way his riser being longer will produce a lighter draw weight for sure.

The limb bolts on my TradTech riser seemed bottomed until I backed those set screws all the way out, then they turned in 3 turns which is the max for my riser. So I agree with Rick try that. But chances are they will still be under 45#. 40# is a good starter recurve weight though so don't be in too big of a hurry to buy heavier limbs, that can induce form issues.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:28 AM   #62
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I was going ot comment on this because my Black Max 2.0 limbs are rated for a 17" riser. His are different than mine though so maybe his are for a 19". Either way his riser being longer will produce a lighter draw weight for sure.

The limb bolts on my TradTech riser seemed bottomed until I backed those set screws all the way out, then they turned in 3 turns which is the max for my riser. So I agree with Rick try that. But chances are they will still be under 45#. 40# is a good starter recurve weight though so don't be in too big of a hurry to buy heavier limbs, that can induce form issues.
I'm not sure what I have at this point. I believe my limb bolts are turned out too far. I'll correct that tonight.
Been shooting all my life. Though not trad. I've got a Ben Pearson that is 45# and it seems fairly weak. The Glenn Parker I had was 55# and I liked it better. ( It felt good)
Not trying to rush to higher poundage, but I'm not even pulling 40# right now with the limb bolts out and I can pull it with one finger. ( Seems real weak). Just want to get the most out of my bow and shoot it well.

Let me get the bow tuned and I'll see where I am.

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Old 02-06-2018, 09:14 PM   #63
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I don't want to hijack your thread any more. So I'm going to start a new one. Rick and anyone else, I'd appreciate your taking a look and chiming in.

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Old 02-06-2018, 09:49 PM   #64
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Setting up an ILF bow. Is the new thread.
Thanks for the help, I could use it.

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Old 02-07-2018, 09:46 AM   #65
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Huntinfool,

What riser/limbs are those?
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:47 PM   #66
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Huntinfool,

What riser/limbs are those?
Riser is
Hoyt Excel ( maybe 21" need to measure)
Limbs are Black Max II 45"


I started a new thread and I believe I posted all the info there.

Whatcha thinking?

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Old 02-07-2018, 09:39 PM   #67
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Wrong thread

Last edited by huntinfool; 02-07-2018 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:21 AM   #68
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Thanks to Rick's post, John has sold out of his Olympus ILF risers! Lol. It will be 4 to 6 weeks before he gets more.

Rick is the new E.F. Hutton.

Todd
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:51 AM   #69
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Thanks to Rick's post, John has sold out of his Olympus ILF risers! Lol. It will be 4 to 6 weeks before he gets more.

Rick is the new E.F. Hutton.

Todd
LOL, naa.
There were lots of folks buying them before I ordered mine.

I just got lucky to get in on a batch build of the 21"ers, but it was still over 4 weeks before I got it.

Well worth the wait.

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:10 AM   #70
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LOL, naa.
There were lots of folks buying them before I ordered mine.

I just got lucky to get in on a batch build of the 21"ers, but it was still over 4 weeks before I got it.

Well worth the wait.

Rick
Rick,

I'm only relaying what John said in response to an inquiry by my buddy Mike.

He was thinking about getting a Hoyt Satori, so I said he should inquire about one of these. So he asked from his Book o' Faces account and that was his reply.

I hope he gets one so I can try it out . I need to become more consistent with the three bows I already have before getting another. I keep thinking that one of these days my shooting will just click into place and all will be well, but it hasn't happened for me yet.

Its still good day/bad day....and more bad than good! I guess that is why I'm hooked. So simple a thing, but so difficult to master.

Todd
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:22 AM   #71
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:49 AM   #72
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Maybe I need to talk to John about some sales commission.

Seriously though. These are darn fine little risers.

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:33 AM   #73
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Rick,

Now that you've had some time.e to shoot the new riser, what are the main differences between the excel riser you had and the Optimus riser?
Don't know if I'm ready to spend money, but I'm curious.


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Old 02-09-2018, 11:51 AM   #74
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Rick,

Now that you've had some time.e to shoot the new riser, what are the main differences between the excel riser you had and the Optimus riser?
Don't know if I'm ready to spend money, but I'm curious.


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(a) Heavier (more stable) on the shot
(b) Much better balance. (almost like it has a stabilizer)
(c) Much stronger. Not flexy at all. (probably wouldn't be noticed at lower draw weights, but at the weights I shoot it is very noticeable)

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 12:36 PM   #75
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Rick,

Is that your first 21" riser, or is that the length that you prefer? My two take-downs are both 19" with long limbs making them 64", and the longbow is 66". I've always heard the longer the better for stability/forgiveness.

Todd
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Old 02-09-2018, 12:52 PM   #76
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Rick,

Is that your first 21" riser, or is that the length that you prefer? My two take-downs are both 19" with long limbs making them 64", and the longbow is 66". I've always heard the longer the better for stability/forgiveness.

Todd
All of my ILF's have been 21" risers with medium limbs.
I like a 64" bow, and the medium limbs just feel better to me, and seem to shoot better for me.

I've tried other lengths of both risers, limbs, and different overall lengths, but never liked them as well, so I'm sticking with what suits me, except for if I get some longbow limbs, in which case I will stick with the 21" riser, and go with longs for a 66" overall length.

Rick
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:59 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by RickBarbee View Post
All of my ILF's have been 21" risers with medium limbs.
I like a 64" bow, and the medium limbs just feel better to me, and seem to shoot better for me.

I've tried other lengths of both risers, limbs, and different overall lengths, but never liked them as well, so I'm sticking with what suits me, except for if I get some longbow limbs, in which case I will stick with the 21" riser, and go with longs for a 66" overall length.

Rick
Great! Thanks for letting me pick your brain all the time!

Todd
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