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7.3 diesel owners, what do I need to look for?

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    7.3 diesel owners, what do I need to look for?

    Got an itch to scratch. Those that have owned them, where are the gotchas I need to look at when perusing used trucks? Looking at 4 door, 4WD short bed models.

    #2
    First off, great choice. My brother and I both own 2002 7.3's 4wd, crew cab short beds. There are few concerns with these trucks. Major one that could leave you on the side of the road is a $25 part called the camshaft position sensor (cps). Keep a Motorcraft brand spare in the glovebox and you'll be fine. Mines only gone out once. Other than that, the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) could develop leaks at the o-rings but is easily repaired. The transmission will need to be rebuilt around 150-200k miles. They respond well to custom tunes and increased exhaust. I also have a 2015 F250 6.7 Powerstoke, 4wd Crew and firmly believe my 7.3 will outlast it.

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      #3
      Love both of mine. 1999 and early 2003 models, crew cabs, less then 200k, mint conditions. Working in the hunting industry for 25 years; they just perform. The only drawback is the dang truck weighs so much and even four wheel drive you can get stuck. Wouldn't trade them for any other truck. Good luck.

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        #4
        All good advice. The motor will outlast the parts, so don't get upset when you have to start replacing things. Quite arguably the best light duty PU ever built.

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          #5
          Not sure about that transmission rebuild part. Sold mine to a TBH with 361k all original motor and tranny. Along with CPS, the pickup unit in the gas tank will break at some point. Cost about $1000.00 to fix. But if I owned one with over 200k I would drop the tank and just change it yourself.

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            #6
            I've got an 02 F350 CC long bed 4X4. it's got 219,000 and counting. Haven't replaced the CPS yet but I have replaced the AC compressor, Alternator, Batteries and Heater Core , steering stabilzer, front hubs and Brakes. But those are all things prone to go in time I rekon. Biggest issue I have is the Up Pipes going to the Turbo. The Org. Pipes are not flanged at the ends and have a metal donut gasket at the end to seal it wear it goes into the Turbo. These wear out and its a P in the A to replace. And expensive. The biggest problem is this is where alot of your Boost is created and what spins up your turbo to push out all the Exhaust Gases.... And EGT's are the biggest killers in these trucks. The permanent fix is to buy the kit and die both pipes at the Same time with the upgraded flanged pipes. Also Sticton is a big issue when it's cold. Mine didn't like to start when it got real cold. Plug it in when it goes below 35°and that should help, but I can't always plug it in when I'm traveling so I add ArcOil to every oil change, it's a stiction eliminator and has helped solve the "Cold Start" issue with 7.3's and 6.0's.

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              #7
              Just sold my 99 with 275k miles. The orings at the fuel filter drain valve can start too leak too, usually when the weather changes. It's an easy fix.

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                #8
                I had 260k when I traded mine in.....should have kept it. It was a SOLID truck.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Sackett View Post
                  {First off, great choice. There are few concerns with these trucks. Major one that could leave you on the side of the road is a $25 part called the camshaft position sensor (cps). Keep a Motorcraft brand spare in the glovebox and you'll be fine. Other than that, the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) could develop leaks at the o-rings but is easily repaired. The transmission will need to be rebuilt around 150-200k miles. They respond well to custom tunes and increased exhaust.}
                  ^X2 The CPS is easy to change, I believe I have done mine twice. Depending how many miles, and how it was driven, the turbo may need replacing if you hear it chatter...several good after market upgrades to give it new decent power increases. Count on the tranny needing to be rebuilt. Super duty models: If it has larger wheels tires, the front "unit bearings" are junk...they do not last long...not sure what they cost now, but they used to be almost $900 a side, and only take a few minutes to change. I replaced mine (02 F350, CC, SB, 4x4) with an eliminator kit from Dynatrac...uses older style bearings, MUCH STRONGER. I put about 150k on these bearings and have only needed to repack them...still looking/doing great. A bigger exhaust will give you a big/safe power increase. Chips/tunners can give monster increases in power, some sacrifice safety of the motor. There are a few pieces that are different on the 250/350 models...so, choose accordingly to what you plan on doing with the truck. Depending on the year and model, there is a chance the front axle is a Dana 50, rather than a Dana 60 (60 being the stronger, common on 1-tons). There is all sorts of stuff on the net telling you how to tell them apart, ad the only way I believe works is measuring the pinion nut...if I recall correctly, the 60 has a 1 5/16" pinion nut, the 50 is 1 1/4"...I think.

                  Good luck!

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                    #10
                    Sackett pretty much nailed it. I just went back to the 7.3 myself. Sold my 2013 and turned around and bought another 2002. CC 4wd LWB 1 ton. AS he said they respond very well to chips, intakes and exhaust. The only problem my truck has is that if it is not plugged up when temps drop below 40 it can be a pain to start and even when it is plugged in it takes a while to warm up. I installed and TS 6 position chip in mine with a high idle setting, now I do not have issues with waiting on the truck to warm up. I also installed a cold air intake that made a noticeable difference. I run the truck on the 100hp tune and it has woken it up and made it more responsive while keeping it dependable.......... this is on a truck that is about to roll 300K.

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                      #11
                      01 4x4 and still going strong. Your turbo will use about a quart of oil every 3k miles if it gets low your injectors won't work right.
                      I run diesel kleen thru mine every so often to. They are beast [emoji106] You gotta get on it every now and then to blow the soot outa of it every now and then
                      Last edited by BigThicketBoy; 01-30-2016, 10:40 AM.

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                        #12
                        As everyone has stated above, keep a spare CPS. Also, make sure your spare tire key is included as well. Without it, you won't be able to get your spare down. Other than that, maintenance is the key. Keep clean fluids in it, always change your oil on time, and expect to replace normal wear items like batteries, alternator, tie rods ends, etc. My 02 has 205k on it, 35s and chipped and can still get 18 on the highway. They're a great truck, just don't expect to get anywhere fast in them.

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                          #13



                          You need to just buy this one

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                            #14
                            399195 miles on my 2000 F250 7.3. Plan on keeping it a while too. I've had some oil pressure problems that where fixed, had the power steering go out (that was scary), had a fuel line leak, replaced the brakes and hydraulic lines in the past year. I drive the fool out of mine. I went from Houston to my camp in S Texas at least twice a month (5 hrs) and during hunting season every weekend. I should have less repairs in 2016. I plan on getting it painted, adding bigger rims and tires a replacing the nerf bars....cosmetic stuff. Love the old war horse.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mtltx View Post
                              Nice one!

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