Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Arrow spine question.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Arrow spine question.

    I can not get the goldtip 35/55 spined arrows to shoot good out of my recurve. I have tried everything I know to get them to shoot good, but it just ain't working. Now I have some Easton 2315 aluminum arrows that are cut at 28.5 inches that fly like darts. But the spine charts say that arrow is overspined for my bow. What am I supposed to do?

    The aluminum arrow hit exactly where I am looking and fly straight. While the carbon arrows that are supposedly of the correct spine porpoise in flight.

    Is it ok to use the heavier spined arrow that shoots better?

    Would some of you veterans please help me out here.

    #2
    arrow spine

    Justin,have you tried bareshafting?If it is porposing it might be nocking point.If it is spined too heavy then you can load up the front with weight.I have found bareshafting to be very helpful in getting stuff ironed out quickly.Hope this helps some.

    Eric

    Comment


      #3
      No Eric I have not tried bareshafting. Can you explain it to me? I have heard of it, but don't know what It is.

      Comment


        #4
        I am betting that you nock needs to be moved up around 1/8 inch. I would do this until the arrow stops swimmingg like a dolphin. Bare shafting is just like it sounds. You shoot a bare shaft to get the right spine for your bow. Start with a longer arrow shaft and keep going shorter until you get the right arrow flight. First decide the arrow tip weight that you wish to use, cause if you decide that you want to use something that is like 30-70 grains lighter or heavier this with give you a different reading. Remember shorter the arrow the stiffer it is going to be, and the more weight you add to the end(tip weight) the weaker the arrow is going be. I never add to much weight to the back of the arrow. I am thinking that you shouldn't go over 30 grains(this will stiffin' your arrow). Trust me though, once get those carbons to fly right, you will not want to use much of anything else, especially the first time you miss something and hit something that you wasn't looking at. Good luck.
        Chris Kiefner
        You only need to shoot about 10 yards out, maybe as far as 15 yards to get your results.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Chris.

          Comment


            #6
            Check this out...this is a fairly decsriptive run down on bareshaft tuning. It helped me a bunch. Good luck...I love my GT 35/55's now that I have em flying straight and true!

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the link Duck'n. It would appear I have some issues that I need to resolve.

              The goldtip arrows are working now.

              Now how do I add 200 grains of weight to my shafts?

              Comment


                #8
                100gr. brass insert and 100gr. field point. Run poly rope down the shaft. I often wondered about putting fishing weights down the shaft, I didn't know if it would give me an extra pust like a weight baseball bat or just make a rattlin' noise when I was walking.
                Chris Kiefner

                Comment


                  #9
                  3 Rivers also sells a "test kit" that has various weights of screw in field tips....helps fine tune. I could probably spare a couple 50 and 100 gr inserts if you need em...just PM me and let me know.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    eastonarchery.com, go to downloads and get the tuning manual. It has a great section on bareshaft testing, together with overall bow/arrow tuning. NEVER bareshaft with a broadhead.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Bareshaft tuning is the only way I ever set up a traditional bow. I rarely use the Easton chart and only then as a loose reference. It is usually over spined by at least 2 shaft sizes. And alluminum arrows are much more forgiving than carbon.

                      First set your brace height at the lowest recommended by the manufacturer, shoot it with a proper weight arrow and add one twist until it is quiet. You can play with the BH after you get your arrows flying well. My recommendation for the beginner is to set the BH and check it regularly to make sure it hasn't moved. Once you get more experience you can play with BH. Higher BH - arrow acts stiffer. Lower BH - arrow acts weaker.

                      I added a very quick lesson on bare shaft tuning below. Let me warn you, to get a good reading with a bare shaft you must have a very clean release and follow through and very smooth nock fit on your string. If your release is bad, if you don't follow through, or if your nocks are too tight, you will not get a good read from your bare shaft and you will give up in frustration.

                      If you still have any full length shafts left, decide on your point weight (I mostly use 145gn and 200gn), shoot the arrow at about 12 yards. First get rid of the up and down nock position by setting your nock locater on your string. Try to get the arrow to impact in a straight line with the point to the right if you are RH (to the left if you are LH). Then begin cutting from the back of the shaft about 1/4" at a time, cut less once you get close to the arrow hitting straight, until the arrow hits only slightly weak (point right, nock left for a RH shooter). Once you get them flying pretty well bare shaft, fleth one and see how they fly. They should fly pretty good for you.

                      Good luck and please contact me if you have any questions. 281-540-2265.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Good thing I checked Duck'ns link....O.L. wont lead ya astray..is where I go for all my tuning needs and answers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You can buy 190 grain field tips from www.SimmonsSharks.com also. They are fatter than my Carbonwood shafts... still works for me.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If you're wanting to add weight without affecting spine, you can get tubing from wal mart or www.3riversarchery.com. I use the aquarium tubing from wal mart. I think it'll add about 8 or 9 grains per inch. 3 Rivers has different weights starting at 3 grains per inch. I think. Haven't checked lately.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If you're wanting to weaken the spine the increase your point weight. Decrease point weight to stiffen the spine.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X