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How do you get a stripped allen head bolt loose

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    #16
    How large is the head? I have good luck using a hammer / flat punch that is about the size of the allen head and hit it square on the bolt head a few good whacks. This should form the "hex" back to where its possible to get the original allen size to fit correctly and it'll come loose. Kinda hard to explain but this works 90% of the time at my job as we only use allen head bolts.


    Is this on your bow?
    Last edited by Codypatt1; 10-23-2012, 11:11 PM.

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      #17
      An easy out is what I've always used.

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        #18
        Depending what the bolt is in. Im guessing an aluminium riser. You can apply heat (cutting torch)to the bolt which will expand in the hole will loose the corrosion in the thread and then will allow you to remove it easier. Be careful not to overheat it. And don't apply the heat directly to the riser. If in doubt have a bowshop take a look at it.

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          #19
          Can you grab the bolt head with needle nose vise grips? If so yhen try that,that is what I do most of the time

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            #20
            Easy out

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              #21
              Originally posted by scissorhands View Post
              easy out
              Just be careful not to break the "easy out" off in the bolt. Easy leaves the equation when you do that

              If it is a counter sunk head (sit flush with surface) I will drill the head off and then remove with vice grips

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                #22
                Among other things my company is a "last resort" for people with broken/stripped bolts that they have to get out of expensive parts, engine heads, etc. Before we even touch them with a tool we will carefully heat the bolt up (bolt only...not the surrounding metal) to cherry red with a small torch tip and let them cool back down. This completely breaks them loose where they spin out easily with whatever tool you use.

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                  #23
                  Ja get it out?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Snipehunter View Post
                    Use a flat head screw driver. Tap it in.
                    yep this works

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                      #25
                      When the head is recessed, you can not use the cut a slot trick. I restored a 1950s craftsman jointer and the screws that hold the blades in the cutter head were recessed allens. Same thing happened to me. I stripped over half of them without them budging. I took a torque bit that was a size too big and hammered it into the head. Then used a cordless impact to get them loose. Worked great.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Snipehunter View Post
                        Use a flat head screw driver. Tap it in.
                        exactly what I was thinking.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Swampa View Post
                          Ja get it out?
                          Nope. Tried both a flat head and a larger sized torx wrench this morning. That bugger is stuck like chuck.

                          may pick up a dremel later today, if that doesen't work, ill take it to a machine shop and have them drill the head out.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Playa View Post
                            Nope. Tried both a flat head and a larger sized torx wrench this morning. That bugger is stuck like chuck.

                            may pick up a dremel later today, if that doesen't work, ill take it to a machine shop and have them drill the head out.
                            Did you see my earlier tip to heat it up red hot?

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                              #29
                              What is the screw in? If it is for your sight mount, it is a #10 screw. Take a 3/16 drill bit and drill just deep enough for the head to pop off. Take the mount off and you can get vise grips on the threads that are sticking up.

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