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Old 05-17-2018, 08:36 PM   #1
krisw
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Default Anchoring a safe

What should I use to bolt my safe to the floor? It's in my utility room with a concrete floor. I got a Canon safe recently and I don't want it walking off.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:46 PM   #2
Drycreek3189
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Hammer drill, masonry bit, anchors, and anchor bolts.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:48 PM   #3
panhandlehunter
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Drill a hole in he concrete and use wedge anchors.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:03 PM   #4
Mauler
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I don't bolt mine down.

Mine is in a low moisture hard to get to room for kids and bad guys.

The chances of some master criminal breaking in and walking off with my 300# safe thru all of the narrow doorways and various other obstacles in my house is pretty slim.

I've never been comfortable with the idea of drilling into my slab and hitting anything of substance that could compromise the integrity of my foundation
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:04 PM   #5
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I did build a very sturdy "cabinet" like structure around it to keep it from tipping though
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drycreek3189 View Post
Hammer drill, masonry bit, anchors, and anchor bolts.
This.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:46 PM   #7
Radar
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I know of a feller that bought a safe and put it in his house. Some goobers broke in while he was gone and tried to get in his safe. They drilled holes around the lock, beat the handles and dial off with a sledgehammer. They never got in it and finally they flipped it over on the floor and left.

The hardwood floor was ruined and the guns inside the safe got beat up purty bad, and the safe was destroyed. I would have to say that bolting down the safe may have saved him some grief.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:52 PM   #8
44mAG
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How much does your safe weigh? If it is light enough for two or three guys to walk away with it, i would definitely bolt it down. My Fort Knox safe weighs around 1,400 lbs so I don't have mine bolted down.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:39 PM   #9
WTJim
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The reason for anchoring is the perps drop the safe on it's back and pop the door with pry bars. Google it. You can pop door on most safes in under 5 minutes...

Last edited by WTJim; 05-17-2018 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Misspell
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:53 PM   #10
chunkinlead
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Depending on how big it is if someone is going to walk away with it you might want to unlock your house door and give them the combination!


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Old 05-17-2018, 11:06 PM   #11
Doug's_Optics
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunkinlead View Post
Depending on how big it is if someone is going to walk away with it you might want to unlock your house door and give them the combination!


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Hahaha!!!
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:36 PM   #12
bk913
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I drilled 2 holes through the back of mine then into a couple studs.. any disadvantage of doing that versus into your foundation?
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:56 PM   #13
JustinJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTJim View Post
The reason for anchoring is the perps drop the safe on it's back and pop the door with pry bars. Google it. You can pop door on most safes in under 5 minutes...
This. It ain't about somebody stealing the whole thing. Most safes are pretty easy to pry bar into once the things on it's back.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:11 AM   #14
Walker
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Some safes are unstable with the door open. Another good reason for anchors.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:22 AM   #15
35remington
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I got my first thermal scope the same weekend I was planning to bolt down my safe. Started walking through the house with the thermal and lo and behold the hot water line was immediately under the safe in the slab. Thermal bout paid for itself that weekend. Be careful.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:34 AM   #16
2BigMethod
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Wedge anchors
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:28 AM   #17
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I built a safe room and the safes that will go in it will be bolted to the floor and wall. Just another way of adding time to someone that really wants in.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:10 PM   #18
krisw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35remington View Post
I got my first thermal scope the same weekend I was planning to bolt down my safe. Started walking through the house with the thermal and lo and behold the hot water line was immediately under the safe in the slab. Thermal bout paid for itself that weekend. Be careful.
House is on pier and beam, all the utilities come from the other end of the house. The utility room is a filled in porch that is concrete. I think the only thing under it is a tree root.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:52 PM   #19
Radar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
Some safes are unstable with the door open. Another good reason for anchors.
Yes sir, had that happpen. If the safe is that empty, better start buying some guns.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:56 PM   #20
Tony Pic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinJ View Post
This. It ain't about somebody stealing the whole thing. Most safes are pretty easy to pry bar into once the things on it's back.
That is why you need to pay attention to tolerances when you buy the safe. Should be about 3/16th or less of space on a safe door frame and safe door. Wider than that a prybar can work its way to spread the frame and locking lugs won't mean a thing. Bolt it down.
There are few different types of anchors. Stud anchors which you drop into a hole and hammer down so wedge spreads in concrete and fastens stud. Place nut with washer and run down on safe floor.
There is also double expansion shields, which I used. Drill holes and drop these into holes. Run correct bolt into hole and as you tighten both sides of shield expand against concrete drill hole and anchors sit flush with floor instead of sticking up like studs do. Only thing in safe floor is bolt heads instead of studs sticking up. When you want to move safe you do not have to lift it above studs to move. Where as the double expansions anchors are flush with floor when you remove bolts.
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:05 PM   #21
Randy Madden
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ive Heard stories of burglaries where the bad guys used a wench and pulled the safe through the side of the house and onto the bed of their truck so they could take their time getting into it somewhere else.
With proper anchoring it would be very difficult to do that. Sure they are going to tear up your house but.....
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Old Yesterday, 06:52 AM   #22
Tbar
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FWIW - The company that installed mine only put bolts in the back corners. When I asked why they said if the foundation shifts four bolts can put the safe door in a bind and make it hard/impossible to open.
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Old Today, 12:38 AM   #23
Sackett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Madden View Post
ive Heard stories of burglaries where the bad guys used a wench and pulled the safe through the side of the house and onto the bed of their truck so they could take their time getting into it somewhere else.
With proper anchoring it would be very difficult to do that. Sure they are going to tear up your house but.....
I would like to see pictures of this "Wench" who can pull a loaded safe through the side of a house; is her first name Helga?
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