I recently had the original string replaced on my 9 yr old DXT. initially it was hitting dead on after the replacement with no need to move sights or rest, which surprised me(its been years since ive really had to tune a bow). prior to the string replacement I was extremely lucky that my rage, thunderheads, slick tricks and muzzys hit to the same POI. today I tried my fixed blades and was way to the left, so I decided to check paper tune. at 6' from paper, I was getting slightly nock right(point left) and nock low, about 3/4". adjusted nock point up and moved rest slightly to the left. almost have a perfect hole now, with maybe 1/16-1/8" nock right still. shooting 60lbs, beman 400s, 100 grain heads, 28" draw and im a lefty. I have 2 questions,(1) do you think that is an acceptable tear on paper seeing how I can't really afford to move my rest any more IN for fear of having fletching contact and (2) why would everything change so much with a new string? shooting a HHA single pin sight to be dead on at 20, I now have to adjust sight for 35 yards. will have to completely readjust sight and sight tape tomorrow.
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Some tuning is to be expected. The nocking point technically; probably, changed even some small amount. More than likely the yokes are different now so the idler may need to be set, or possibly set like it was before if you were getting good flight. The heads are what matters, I wouldn’t focus too much on paper tuning unless you have access to a press so it can be yoke tuned. If anything I would bare shaft it but that’s just me. I’m sure you’ll get a lot of responses and truth be told there are several different means to the end of good head flight. I just use what works best for me. That would be setting the idler, making sure the starting rotation is correct, the bow is making weight, draw length is correct, hitting let off etc..... I find taking this approach allows for minimum adjustment after a new install but there is always some needed imo unless you just get lucky. The key being the bow being in a similar state prior to pulling it down.
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I just looked up some yoke tuning diagrams and checked the yoke. the string appears to be coming straight off the idler right down the middle of the limbComment
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Originally posted by bowhuntingw View Post
It should be checked at full draw. The optimal setting is to have it straight at full draw which means in most cases it will have a slight lean at brace. I use a draw board to check it at full draw.
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yes it was straight at full draw. maybe its my arrows. I was shooting some older Blackhawk vapors 4000s. shooting beman 400s now which should have very similar spine. may just need to start all over. both arrow types shoot the same hole in the paper.Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View PostComment
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question for bow tuning experts
When you say it’s straight how did you check it. I lay a shaft on the shelf side of the idler and see where it tracks. The shaft should end up at the nocking point, add or remove twists to pull it straight.
Again, this is just one thing I would look at. There are a lot of other features that should be verified. Check the axle to axle, check the brace. Once you know the bow is sorted then you can move to the tuning aspects. Barring a grossly sensitive arrow spine issue it should tune out for you.
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took it to the shop. the guy checked the idler and it was good. yoke was good too. bow was 56lbs with new string. put some twists in it to get poundage back to 60ish. adjusted nock loop and now all points hit to the same poi. sucked having to move my sight though. have to make me another tape for my hha.Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View PostComment
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Glad you got it worked out!!!! Good luck this seasonComment
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tried to delete was not trying to reply to this sorryLast edited by lk05077; 08-28-2018, 06:58 AM.Comment
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