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    Ruger No.1

    So I have a beautiful No.1 30-06. It shot very good groups until I have a trigger job done. Trigger is crazy good now, but cant get gun to group well anymore went from .75" groups to 2.5", I still have shells that it was shooting great but now it wont group them and I've tried many other types and weights too. I wasn't able to shoot gun after trigger job for quite some time. Now the gunsmith that did it has moved off. My guess is when smith took the forearm off it caused some kind of problem with it grouping. I've read that No.1 can be very finicky on grouping due to the forearm. Any suggestions or things I can try?

    #2
    make sure all screws are tight that goes for action and scope.

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      #3
      Remove forearm and check for pressure points.Smooth.try different amounts of torque on the forearm screw...try a business card under the front of the forearm...send it to Hill Country Rifles for an accuracy job.

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        #4
        Originally posted by mpotts View Post
        make sure all screws are tight that goes for action and scope.
        Ive checked screws and scope mounts. Forearm screw is very snug.
        Last edited by coop2564; 11-20-2017, 11:30 AM.

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          #5
          Originally posted by coop2564 View Post
          Ive checked screws and scope mounts. Forearm screw is very snug.
          They gotta be torqued right. Snug won't cut it.

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            #6
            Put another scope on it. Just to verify something isn't wrong with the scope. I was having problems with my remington 700. Last year it shot great, took it out this year to shoot and it wouldn't shoot worth a darn. Tried cleaning, free floating barrel, making sure all screws/bolts are tight. finally put another scope on it and found the problem. Turrets were a little loose.

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              #7
              I had the same issue with my No 1. The forearm must beloose enough to be pulled away from the bank with apps 16 pounds of force or so River told me. Loosen it up and gradually tighten until you hit the sweet spot.

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                #8
                Originally posted by txchuck View Post
                I had the same issue with my No 1. The forearm must beloose enough to be pulled away from the bank with apps 16 pounds of force or so River told me. Loosen it up and gradually tighten until you hit the sweet spot.
                this

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by txchuck View Post
                  I had the same issue with my No 1. The forearm must beloose enough to be pulled away from the bank with apps 16 pounds of force or so River told me. Loosen it up and gradually tighten until you hit the sweet spot.
                  True.

                  These are the Ruger #1 guys.

                  E. Arthur Brown Company is a master craftsman of signature EABCO Accuracy Barrels for for the Thompson Center Encore Pro Hunter, Contender G2, Savage, Remington 700, Ruger 1022 and AR15. With an expert eye for accuracy, EABCO also retails brands like Volquartsen, MDT, Choate, Revolution, Rifle Basic and many more.

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                    #10
                    I used to have a Ruger number 1. Never got it to shoot very well. It turns out the brand new very expensive scope I had on the rifle was the problem, but I decided it had to be the rifle and sold it. But during my time trying to find a cure for the accuracy problem. I read a story about drilling and tapping the lug under the barrel, that the forearm is attached to. Then putting a screw in the lug and tighten it against the barrel. Shoot the gun, then adjust the tension. It does not take much tension, you just need to find the right tension, then the gun is supposed to shoot much better. It did not seem to work for me. But at the same time, it did seem to make the gun group better. What I got, was the gun would shoot a three shot group, probably 3/8", then the point of impact would shift 3" to 6" vertically, either up or down. Then shoot another 3/8" three shot group, then shift up or down from that group. I would make a line on the center of the target almost 1' tall. I could make the three shot groups larger or smaller by adjusting tension on the barrel, but I could not stop the point of impact from shifting every three shots. I bought anther rifle, put the scope on that rifle and it did exactly the same thing. Then I felt dumb, right off.

                    I would say the problem is either the tension on the barrel or a problem with the scope mount, scope rings or the scope.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by RifleBowPistol View Post
                      I used to have a Ruger number 1. Never got it to shoot very well. It turns out the brand new very expensive scope I had on the rifle was the problem, but I decided it had to be the rifle and sold it. But during my time trying to find a cure for the accuracy problem. I read a story about drilling and tapping the lug under the barrel, that the forearm is attached to. Then putting a screw in the lug and tighten it against the barrel. Shoot the gun, then adjust the tension. It does not take much tension, you just need to find the right tension, then the gun is supposed to shoot much better. It did not seem to work for me. But at the same time, it did seem to make the gun group better. What I got, was the gun would shoot a three shot group, probably 3/8", then the point of impact would shift 3" to 6" vertically, either up or down. Then shoot another 3/8" three shot group, then shift up or down from that group. I would make a line on the center of the target almost 1' tall. I could make the three shot groups larger or smaller by adjusting tension on the barrel, but I could not stop the point of impact from shifting every three shots. I bought anther rifle, put the scope on that rifle and it did exactly the same thing. Then I felt dumb, right off.

                      I would say the problem is either the tension on the barrel or a problem with the scope mount, scope rings or the scope.
                      Its not the scope already swapped . So looks like this fore end is design to have contact with barrel. Its touching at receiver and fore end tip to barrel and floated in between. I'll try the above suggestion of loosening and then tightening half turns and see if I can find that sweet spot again. I may bed the last 1" of fore end first so over time the wood wont crush or wear.

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