Speed vs Momentum

[hogdaddy]

mo, speed, ke, foc, etc. doesn't take much of any of them when things go well. like insurance, they are only needed when things go terribly wrong, too late to buy them then.

hear lots of people say "i only take close ethical broadside shots", a good shot doesn't guarrantee a good hit . animals move, i make mistakes as does everyone else.

i'll take an arrow built for a worst case any day, and hope its not needed.

[Frederick D. Be]

One other thing to add to the mix is that the resistance to penetration in most fluid or semi fluid materials goes up exponentially with speed of penetration.
Chuck

Good one...had not really thought of that one. More like parasitic drag (coefficient of drag must be higher of course). So, are we getting to the 200 ton train explanation yet? Cheers!
Fred

[Strong Slinger]

I shoot a 754gr arrow out of a 80# Monster at 272fps. The chart only goes to 700grns so my momentum should be around .89.


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[Frederick D. Be]

I shoot a 754gr arrow out of a 80# Monster at 272fps. The chart only goes to 700grns so my momentum should be around .89.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Now there is the 200 ton train!!! How in the world can you take 80 lbs???? Bet you can drive that arrow through a few 2x4s. Cheers!
Fred

[muddyfuzzy]

i'll take an arrow built for a worst case any day, and hope its not needed.

real solid logic right here^^^^ I had this epiphany myself some time back and took my arrows in a different direction. my arrow weight went from 376 to 440 and foc changed from 9 to 17%. I also ditched the mechanical and other fixed blade heads and went with a classic two blade single bevel.

I subscribe to the "if it can happen, it will happen" approach.

[bphillips]

I wanna be able to break bones, any bones I may hit accidentally.. Same reason I shoot a 300rum over a 25-06 because there is no such thing as overkill.

[rocky]

I will not disagree with any post, but I will say that I want a speed of 280 fps, (for yardage estimation forgiveness) @ around 6 gr. per lb or more, with an approximate 12%(or more) FOC, and a well designed broadhead.
This set-up will kill anything I hit well.
I've never lost an animal because of low K.E. or momentum.
All animals I've lost were due to poor shot placement.
There are many theories, backed by "tests" and all have merit.
Don't fret if you don't shoot 280 fps, or 90lbs of K.E, or have .7 momentum.
If you shoot them right, they'll die.

[chrischop04]

I hunt whitetail so I wanna go fast the flatter I can shoot the better I don't have to be perfect on my yardage just gotta be close. Now if I was hunting elk maybe I would go with a heavy arrow. But if a lady can get a pass threw on a elk a 30 yards only drawing back 40 lbs why worry about it at all

[hogdaddy]

I hunt whitetail so I wanna go fast the flatter I can shoot the better I don't have to be perfect on my yardage just gotta be close. Now if I was hunting elk maybe I would go with a heavy arrow. But if a lady can get a pass threw on a elk a 30 yards only drawing back 40 lbs why worry about it at all

how light is light? how fast is fast? just curious

[12RingKing]

I agree with building an arrow for the worst case situation. It makes sense to me.

Having a certain speed in mind to have a hunting bow hit I believe is a little flawed in logic. I like a quick arrow, but I've hit them in the shoulder before too, would have sucked with a lightweight arrow.

I'm also a believer in the point of diminishing returns......500 grains is a pretty good arrow weight for a 60 lb bow imo.

[12RingKing]

I hunt whitetail so I wanna go fast the flatter I can shoot the better I don't have to be perfect on my yardage just gotta be close. Now if I was hunting elk maybe I would go with a heavy arrow. But if a lady can get a pass threw on a elk a 30 yards only drawing back 40 lbs why worry about it at all

I worry about making the shot.....not my setup. I deal with that all year. Proper setup is the first piece to success in the field, then practice and proper planning/strategy.

[enewman]

Here is a chart. Also has a high res .pdf to download.

http://archeryreport.com/2009/12/arr...rence. -chart/

This is just a chart that shows weight and speed to get what momentum. That's no difference then using a calculator. What I'm talking about is we all know by charts that 25 to 41 k.e. is all you need to kill a deer how much momentum to kill a deer.

Yes we could all set down and run different speeds and weights of arrows to find the 25 k.e to kill a deer and calculate the momentum from that.

I do believe shot placement is the number one priority, but we all know that perfect shot does not always happen.

The comment about picking a speed. You have to decide and start some where. I can shot anywhere from 300 fps with a lite arrow are as slow as 187 with a1080 gn arrow. I had to choose I picked 220 with a 790 gn arrow.

There is a lot of argument about fast arrows to help a bad distance shot. I say use a range finder then you know. I mainly keep my shots to 20 yards or less.
So I don't worry about it. This is just me, and yes I do take long shots,but it has to be almost perfect before I do

The good thing about living in America is that we can do almost what we want

[rocky]

I agree with building an arrow for the worst case situation. It makes sense to me.

Having a certain speed in mind to have a hunting bow hit I believe is a little flawed in logic. I like a quick arrow, but I've hit them in the shoulder before too, would have sucked with a lightweight arrow.

I'm also a believer in the point of diminishing returns......500 grains is a pretty good arrow weight for a 60 lb bow imo.

This is just a chart that shows weight and speed to get what momentum. That's no difference then using a calculator. What I'm talking about is we all know by charts that 25 to 41 k.e. is all you need to kill a deer how much momentum to kill a deer.

Yes we could all set down and run different speeds and weights of arrows to find the 25 k.e to kill a deer and calculate the momentum from that.

I do believe shot placement is the number one priority, but we all know that perfect shot does not always happen.

The comment about picking a speed. You have to decide and start some where. I can shot anywhere from 300 fps with a lite arrow are as slow as 187 with a1080 gn arrow. I had to choose I picked 220 with a 790 gn arrow.

There is a lot of argument about fast arrows to help a bad distance shot. I say use a range finder then you know. I mainly keep my shots to 20 yards or less.
So I don't worry about it. This is just me, and yes I do take long shots,but it has to be almost perfect before I do

The good thing about living in America is that we can do almost what we want

Not arguing either point, but with a bow shooting 280 fps, I can set a pin for 25 yards, and kill everything I shoot at to 30 yards, without any compensation.
I don't know my momentum, but my K.E. is about 68 lbs.
I shoot a 65 lb bow, at 28 DL, with a 390 grain arrow to achieve this.
In KS, I opt for a 3 pin sight with pins set at 20, 30, 40, and have killed everything I shot properly.
I think this is good "middle ground".

[enewman]

Not arguing either point, but with a bow shooting 280 fps, I can set a pin for 25 yards, and kill everything I shoot at to 30 yards, without any compensation.
I don't know my momentum, but my K.E. is about 68 lbs.
I shoot a 65 lb bow, at 28 DL, with a 390 grain arrow to achieve this.
In KS, I opt for a 3 pin sight with pins set at 20, 30, 40, and have killed everything I shot properly.
I think this is good "middle ground".

I think you are correct, and after this hunt I'm going on 9 August I might go back to my lite arrow which is 575 gn or heck I might even go from a 230 gn head back to a 125 gn, but for now I'm just playing.

[12RingKing]

I don't have a problem with that logic....I've just never picked a speed. I've picked a bow and arrow, and speed just kinda fell into place where it was. I usually hunt around 265-270 fps it seems. Except this year. I'm going a little heavier. Most my shots seem to be within 30 yards and usually within 15.