Food plot soil ph question - TexasBowhunter.com Community Discussion Forums

txhunter1 · 08-13-2018, 09:04 PM

We had soil test done on 4 spots. Need little help with direction of what to do with results. We planted oats last year but just a last minute idea.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Darton · 08-13-2018, 09:11 PM

Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.

txhunter1 · 08-13-2018, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darton

Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.

Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Darton · 08-13-2018, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by txhunter1

Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

No worries, we all have been there! N/P/K is the combo formula, so if N is what you need something like 48/0/0 should do the trick for everything but the last plot. For that one I would go with 48/20/0.

txhunter1 · 08-13-2018, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darton

No worries, we all have been there! N/P/K is the combo formula, so if N is what you need something like 48/0/0 should do the trick!

Ok thank you very much. Do I add it before or just at same time with oats?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Drycreek3189 · 08-13-2018, 09:34 PM

Urea is nitrogen and nothing else, but when you put it out you need to disc it in the soil. Otherwise it will "evaporate". I can't remember what you add to soil with a high ph, mainly because soils where I plot all have low ph and I've never had that problem. A search on the QDMA website might turn that info up or just google it. Your soil is not extremely alkaline, and may be ok with just the N recommended per acre. Soil tests are a guideline, and not necesarily written in stone. Most all crops like ph between 6 and 7 but I've grown some pretty good plots at less than perfect.

Darton · 08-13-2018, 09:34 PM

It really needs six months or so to get in the ground well, but the sooner the better. You will see a big difference regardless. I would put it in ASAP or when you plant and then do a huge dose in Feb or Mar in preparation for the upcoming fall!

MadHatter · 08-13-2018, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by txhunter1

Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

First research the particular plant your growing and see what N-P-K works best for it. That N-P-K number isn't a direct relation to your PH number you asked about. Totally different things.
Secondly it will take and ammonium product to drop your ph. A nitrate product can actually cause you to be more alkaline sometimes. Nitrogen fertilizer come both ways. You are wanting a more acidic soil.

Darton · 08-13-2018, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drycreek3189

Urea is nitrogen and nothing else, but when you put it out you need to disc it in the soil. Otherwise it will "evaporate". I can't remember what you add to soil with a high ph, mainly because soils where I plot all have low ph and I've never had that problem. A search on the QDMA website might turn that info up or just google it. Your soil is not extremely alkaline, and may be ok with just the N recommended per acre. Soil tests are a guideline, and not necesarily written in stone. Most all crops like ph between 6 and 7 but I've grown some pretty good plots at less than perfect.

Another valid solution that works well

Dushon · 08-13-2018, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darton

It really needs six months or so to get in the ground well, but the sooner the better. You will see a big difference regardless. I would put it in ASAP or when you plant and then do a huge dose in Feb or Mar in preparation for the upcoming fall!

What needs 6 months?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Darton · 08-13-2018, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dushon

What needs 6 months?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depending on what you are adding in terms of its composition, IE liquid/granular/pelletized, could take up to six months, depending on rainfall, to actually begin to change composition of your soil.

lovemylegacy · 08-13-2018, 10:23 PM

If you are planting clover you should be good. When in doubt, spread some chicken manure...cant go wrong with that

Huggybear · 08-13-2018, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darton

Depending on what you are adding in terms of its composition, IE liquid/granular/pelletized, could take up to six months, depending on rainfall, to actually begin the change the composition of your soil.

You look dumb but just might be smart!????😂

Booner Sooner · 08-13-2018, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darton

Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.

Do you prefer “Dr. Deer” or “Dr. Dirt”?

Killer · 08-14-2018, 11:11 AM

Oats and clover should grow in that PH no problem. I would add the nitrogen and the phosphorus on the last plot when you plant per the recommendation of the test. Your biggest problem will be rain/water when you need it!

Madhatter explained the different types of nitrogen fertilizer to use to lower your PH to get it closer to 7.0, like ammonium sulfate. Your PH is ok for these crops I would not worry about it.

ren087 · 08-14-2018, 12:33 PM

All good suggestions.

DNTRanch · 08-14-2018, 01:25 PM

Sulfur lowers your PH and Lime raises it. When you get your fert. try and get sulfur coated urea, that will help. Good luck, hope it all works out for you!!

txhunter1 · 08-14-2018, 01:37 PM

Guys thanks for the reply's. I will keep updated how the plots turn out.

Lungbustr · 08-14-2018, 01:45 PM

If you are going to be doing food plots this book is almost q must have. https://shop.qdma.com/quality-food-p...r-hunting.html

bgleaton · 08-14-2018, 02:39 PM

It's very hard to lower the pH. Our soils are also 8.0. The best way to lower the pH is to add organic matter to the soil (i.e. planting sorghum, sun hemp, beans, etc. in the Spring), which takes time to do. We have to add nitrogen and phosphorus to our plots and disk it into the soil right before planting. We started doing fall plots two years ago and are still learning. We are buying a cultipacker to firm up the soil after we disk in the oats and wheat this year to see if it helps our plots.

txhunter1 · 11-05-2018, 09:17 PM

Well with the good rain we got in val Verde the food plots came up. Deer are keeping them mowed down. We planted oats and wheat. It's a start with not much experience Name: IMG_0166.jpeg
Views: 47
Size: 52.2 KB

Name: IMG_0166.jpeg
Views: 47
Size: 52.2 KB

Name: 20181102_151910.jpg
Views: 47
Size: 79.2 KB

Name: IMG_0158.jpeg
Views: 47
Size: 83.7 KB

Name: 20181102_152102.jpg
Views: 48
Size: 51.3 KB

Name: IMG_0157.jpeg
Views: 48
Size: 70.2 KB

Name: IMG_0167.jpeg
Views: 47
Size: 44.3 KB

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

08-13-2018, 09:04 PM	#1
txhunter1 Eight Point Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Austin	Food plot soil ph question We had soil test done on 4 spots. Need little help with direction of what to do with results. We planted oats last year but just a last minute idea. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

11-05-2018, 09:17 PM	#21
txhunter1 Eight Point Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Austin	Well with the good rain we got in val Verde the food plots came up. Deer are keeping them mowed down. We planted oats and wheat. It's a start with not much experience Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

08-13-2018, 09:11 PM	#2
Darton Ten Point Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lake Eufaula, OK Hunt In: Oklahoma	Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.

08-13-2018, 09:34 PM	#6
Drycreek3189 Pope & Young Join Date: Jun 2013	Urea is nitrogen and nothing else, but when you put it out you need to disc it in the soil. Otherwise it will "evaporate". I can't remember what you add to soil with a high ph, mainly because soils where I plot all have low ph and I've never had that problem. A search on the QDMA website might turn that info up or just google it. Your soil is not extremely alkaline, and may be ok with just the N recommended per acre. Soil tests are a guideline, and not necesarily written in stone. Most all crops like ph between 6 and 7 but I've grown some pretty good plots at less than perfect.

08-13-2018, 10:23 PM	#12
lovemylegacy Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mauriceville Hunt In: SETx,La,Il,Ks,Mo	If you are planting clover you should be good. When in doubt, spread some chicken manure...cant go wrong with that

08-14-2018, 11:11 AM	#15
Killer Ten Point Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Powderly, TX Hunt In: God's green earth	Oats and clover should grow in that PH no problem. I would add the nitrogen and the phosphorus on the last plot when you plant per the recommendation of the test. Your biggest problem will be rain/water when you need it! Madhatter explained the different types of nitrogen fertilizer to use to lower your PH to get it closer to 7.0, like ammonium sulfate. Your PH is ok for these crops I would not worry about it.

08-14-2018, 12:33 PM	#16
ren087 Eight Point Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Spring Hunt In: East Texas	All good suggestions.

08-14-2018, 01:25 PM	#17
DNTRanch Ten Point Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Fort Worth Hunt In: Runnels County	Sulfur lowers your PH and Lime raises it. When you get your fert. try and get sulfur coated urea, that will help. Good luck, hope it all works out for you!!

08-14-2018, 01:37 PM	#18
txhunter1 Eight Point Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Austin	Guys thanks for the reply's. I will keep updated how the plots turn out.

08-14-2018, 01:45 PM	#19
Lungbustr Pope & Young Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Texas	If you are going to be doing food plots this book is almost q must have. https://shop.qdma.com/quality-food-p...r-hunting.html

08-14-2018, 02:39 PM	#20
bgleaton Ten Point Join Date: Aug 2012 Hunt In: Menard County, TX	It's very hard to lower the pH. Our soils are also 8.0. The best way to lower the pH is to add organic matter to the soil (i.e. planting sorghum, sun hemp, beans, etc. in the Spring), which takes time to do. We have to add nitrogen and phosphorus to our plots and disk it into the soil right before planting. We started doing fall plots two years ago and are still learning. We are buying a cultipacker to firm up the soil after we disk in the oats and wheat this year to see if it helps our plots.