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Old 08-17-2018, 11:26 AM   #1
barnag
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Default steps to the perfect food plot

I'm in Central Texas.

Am I doing this right?
Is there any step I'm missing? Any step not necessary?

step 1: Sept 1 - Mow down the plot with shredder
step 2: Sept 1 - spray the field with Roundup/Water mix (2oz to 1 gallon)
step 3: Sept 15 - disk plow field w/ harrow drag behind disk
step 4: Sept 15 - spread fertilizer on field
step 5: Sept 15 - disk/drag fields again
step 6: Sept 15 - spread seed mix (wheat, oats, winter peas)
step 7: Sept 15 - pull cultipacker over field two times to ensure clods are busted and smoothed over, also to remove any air pockets to help soil retain moisture
step 8: Sept 15 - spread clover mix on top of soil
step 9: Sept 15 - rain dance
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:28 PM   #2
ren087
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My recommendation after much research is first get a soil test. Then, depending on the results, lime.

1. Don't waste time mowing. 9/1
2. Disc 9/1
3. Lime if called for 9/1
4. Spread seed 9/15 or as long as you can wait.
5. Spread fertilizer 9/15
6. Drag 9/15
Pray for rain.
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:37 PM   #3
tdwinklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnag View Post
I'm in Central Texas.

Am I doing this right?
Is there any step I'm missing? Any step not necessary?

step 1: Sept 1 - Mow down the plot with shredder
step 2: Sept 1 - spray the field with Roundup/Water mix (2oz to 1 gallon)
step 3: Sept 15 - disk plow field w/ harrow drag behind disk
step 4: Sept 15 - spread fertilizer on field
step 5: Sept 15 - disk/drag fields again
step 6: Sept 15 - spread seed mix (wheat, oats, winter peas)
step 7: Sept 15 - pull cultipacker over field two times to ensure clods are busted and smoothed over, also to remove any air pockets to help soil retain moisture
step 8: Sept 15 - spread clover mix on top of soil
step 9: Sept 15 - rain dance
looks good to me.
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:53 PM   #4
Drycreek3189
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Yes, you missed the soil test. That's the first step. If you need lime, put it in the lineup but be aware that it won't change your ph overnite. That will happen gradually over the next few months. As to whether you need the mowing step, well I can't see it. You might if it's pretty thick, but only you can judge that. If you do mow, wait a few days to spray gly. Eliminate discing between spreading fertilizer and seed, the seed and fertilizer can be put out at the same time, then run your drag. Cultipack, put out your clover, then cultipack again. Good luck on that rain dance.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:47 PM   #5
Big pig
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Too early for Leon co.
But all the other plans seem right on.

BP
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:48 PM   #6
gingib
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I would not mow, spray and disk. Doing way too much work.

If mowing and spraying then DO NOT Disk. BUild up the thatch layer and just shred the dead stuff after you plant.

Disking will bring many unwanted weeds in the spring
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:51 PM   #7
bgleaton
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Where at in central Texas? We are in Menard county. We’ve planted in mid September the last two years and found that we planted too early. We would get a good rain right away and then get 90+ degree heat for weeks which fried everything. We are planting in mid October this year.

Normally, there’s no need for lime in central /west texas due to high pH levels.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:23 PM   #8
Big pig
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Army Worms are a danger to planting too early also.
I like the thatch method also for my plots now.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:38 PM   #9
Drycreek3189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big pig View Post
Army Worms are a danger to planting too early also.
I like the thatch method also for my plots now.
Y'all must not have many hogs. These ETexas hogs eat anyghing laid on top except little seeds like clover. They've even started eating my beans and peas after they're covered.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:34 AM   #10
barnag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgleaton View Post
Where at in central Texas? We are in Menard county. Weve planted in mid September the last two years and found that we planted too early. We would get a good rain right away and then get 90+ degree heat for weeks which fried everything. We are planting in mid October this year.

Normally, theres no need for lime in central /west texas due to high pH levels.

Yea we are in Bosque County and never need lime due to the high PH.
You know I think we'll wait until mid October this year too.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:35 AM   #11
barnag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gingib View Post
I would not mow, spray and disk. Doing way too much work.

If mowing and spraying then DO NOT Disk. BUild up the thatch layer and just shred the dead stuff after you plant.

Disking will bring many unwanted weeds in the spring

We don't have a no till drill. How do you get the seed to soil contact or under soil 1" and not just lay on top of the thatch?
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:24 AM   #12
SFAbowhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnag View Post
We don't have a no till drill. How do you get the seed to soil contact or under soil 1" and not just lay on top of the thatch?
I think he's meaning you could spray and let it die. Then throw seed and shred the thatch over the seed.

This is exactly what I'll be doing this year.
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Old 08-18-2018, 03:05 PM   #13
Beargrasstx
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I think his question, is "how do you get soil contact for the seed if just throwing it out" It appears you will have a lot of dead vegetation and some seed hitting the ground, but dont some seeds need to be planted an inch deep? So either with a drill or by discing? I am on here to learn as well.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:28 PM   #14
Drycreek3189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beargrasstx View Post
I think his question, is "how do you get soil contact for the seed if just throwing it out" It appears you will have a lot of dead vegetation and some seed hitting the ground, but dont some seeds need to be planted an inch deep? So either with a drill or by discing? I am on here to learn as well.
The thatch will act in the same manner as burying the seed. Lots of guys do it. If you have lots of hungry hogs be ready to replant the conventional way. Been there !

Last edited by Drycreek3189; 08-18-2018 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:17 PM   #15
Grayson
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Step one: move to Iowa or Illinois.
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Old 08-19-2018, 11:23 AM   #16
barnag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson View Post
Step one: move to Iowa or Illinois.

Texas Forever
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:10 PM   #17
Booner Sooner
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Id like to see one or many take pics to document the process that they use. Describe the what, when, and how. Then we can compare results.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:22 PM   #18
bgleaton
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I can document our process. Hopefully we will see better results this year.
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Old 08-22-2018, 02:13 AM   #19
turbowhunter
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After rain dance, set up irrigation system
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Old 08-22-2018, 03:26 PM   #20
SFAbowhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booner Sooner View Post
Id like to see one or many take pics to document the process that they use. Describe the what, when, and how. Then we can compare results.
I'll document my process on my thread.
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Old 08-22-2018, 03:37 PM   #21
Palmetto
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I like to plant the first or second week of October, depending on rain chances.

I used to take time to prepare really nice seedbeds. Now I just spray Gly about 3 weeks before planting, and on planting day I disc/seed/roll. 2 weeks later I fertilize. Works for us.

I have a thread somewhere......haven't updated it in a few years though.

Oh...and you don't want to mow & then spray. The glyphosate is contact killer. You need leaves for it land on, so it can kill them.
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Old 08-22-2018, 03:58 PM   #22
Matt_C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnag View Post
I'm in Central Texas.

Am I doing this right?
Is there any step I'm missing? Any step not necessary?

step 1: Sept 1 - Mow down the plot with shredder
step 2: Sept 1 - spray the field with Roundup/Water mix (2oz to 1 gallon)
step 3: Sept 15 - disk plow field w/ harrow drag behind disk
step 4: Sept 15 - spread fertilizer on field
step 5: Sept 15 - disk/drag fields again
step 6: Sept 15 - spread seed mix (wheat, oats, winter peas)
step 7: Sept 15 - pull cultipacker over field two times to ensure clods are busted and smoothed over, also to remove any air pockets to help soil retain moisture
step 8: Sept 15 - spread clover mix on top of soil
step 9: Sept 15 - rain dance
Ok, before you think I'm crazy, let me run something by you on your steps.

Don't mow,
Spray with the roundup
don't disk
spread seed mix
cultipack or don't depends on you.
why clover mix on top of soil?
do the rain dance (please film and post)

Reasons for my comments are the buffalo system. If you spray existing weeds/plants that will kill them out more than likely. If you leave them standing and plant the oats ect. the oats and stuff will come up protected by the native grasses/weeds from birds etc. and the grasses/weeds will hold moisture for the new seed bed. If you disk plow and harrow you are releasing lot's of nitrogen in the soil that the plants will need and you will have to put back with the fertilizer.

If you could break the stalk on the grass/weed with a crimper the existing grass/weed bed before spraying that would be even better. Once the stalk is broken it will die. If you can't build you a crimper then go ahead and mow but mow 4-6 or 8" if you can, it will provide cover and moisture for the new seeds.

Remember you're not planting grass for cows or goats etc. The animals you're planting for is deer or ungulates right. They by nature are browsers and "pickers" :-)

Go ahead and tell me I'm crazy. When the winter crop is done, simply crimp it again and plant a summer blend. The idea is to build on the base you start with and don't let go of that nitrogen and other good things in the soil. Eagle seed sells soybeans that are for DEER!. Means if they get any rain at all they will get head high :-) and deer love them.

Let me know if you think I'm crazy.

Matt
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:06 PM   #23
Booner Sooner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_C View Post
Ok, before you think I'm crazy, let me run something by you on your steps.

Don't mow,
Spray with the roundup
don't disk
spread seed mix
cultipack or don't depends on you.
why clover mix on top of soil?
do the rain dance (please film and post)

Reasons for my comments are the buffalo system. If you spray existing weeds/plants that will kill them out more than likely. If you leave them standing and plant the oats ect. the oats and stuff will come up protected by the native grasses/weeds from birds etc. and the grasses/weeds will hold moisture for the new seed bed. If you disk plow and harrow you are releasing lot's of nitrogen in the soil that the plants will need and you will have to put back with the fertilizer.

If you could break the stalk on the grass/weed with a crimper the existing grass/weed bed before spraying that would be even better. Once the stalk is broken it will die. If you can't build you a crimper then go ahead and mow but mow 4-6 or 8" if you can, it will provide cover and moisture for the new seeds.

Remember you're not planting grass for cows or goats etc. The animals you're planting for is deer or ungulates right. They by nature are browsers and "pickers" :-)

Go ahead and tell me I'm crazy. When the winter crop is done, simply crimp it again and plant a summer blend. The idea is to build on the base you start with and don't let go of that nitrogen and other good things in the soil. Eagle seed sells soybeans that are for DEER!. Means if they get any rain at all they will get head high :-) and deer love them.

Let me know if you think I'm crazy.

Matt


Matt, you are crazy......crazy like a fox.

Looking forward to seeing someone attempt this! Hoping that this is a winner as it would be quicker and cheaper!
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:36 PM   #24
lovemylegacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnag View Post
I'm in Central Texas.

Am I doing this right?
Is there any step I'm missing? Any step not necessary?

step 1: Sept 1 - Mow down the plot with shredder
step 2: Sept 1 - spray the field with Roundup/Water mix (2oz to 1 gallon)
step 3: Sept 15 - disk plow field w/ harrow drag behind disk
step 4: Sept 15 - spread fertilizer on field
step 5: Sept 15 - disk/drag fields again
step 6: Sept 15 - spread seed mix (wheat, oats, winter peas)
step 7: Sept 15 - pull cultipacker over field two times to ensure clods are busted and smoothed over, also to remove any air pockets to help soil retain moisture
step 8: Sept 15 - spread clover mix on top of soil
step 9: Sept 15 - rain dance
Save yourself some work, just spray/terminate your plot. Keep the thatch as a natural fertilizer. Plant it just before or after a rain. If you have access to a drill, that is way better than plowing. Sir you have way to much work on this list.

Just for what it is worth, plan your planting according to rain, not the date.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:39 PM   #25
lovemylegacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booner Sooner View Post
Matt, you are crazy......crazy like a fox.

Looking forward to seeing someone attempt this! Hoping that this is a winner as it would be quicker and cheaper!
elgato been doing this for awhile.

Grant Woods is the developer of the Buffalo System...check it out.

Last edited by lovemylegacy; 08-22-2018 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:41 PM   #26
Booner Sooner
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Default steps to the perfect food plot

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemylegacy View Post
elgato been doing this for awhile.


Yep. Been watching his thread. His equipment is on a different level than.....was about to say mine but really, most folks here.


Would love for Santa to bring me a Firminator!!!

Last edited by Booner Sooner; 08-22-2018 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 08-22-2018, 11:31 PM   #27
lovemylegacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booner Sooner View Post
Yep. Been watching his thread. His equipment is on a different level than.....was about to say mine but really, most folks here.


Would love for Santa to bring me a Firminator!!!
Yeah, the one for ATV would be great
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:00 AM   #28
Booner Sooner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemylegacy View Post
Yeah, the one for ATV would be great


The price of these are ridiculous.



$6K????

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Old 08-23-2018, 10:27 AM   #29
SFAbowhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_C View Post
Ok, before you think I'm crazy, let me run something by you on your steps.

Don't mow,
Spray with the roundup
don't disk
spread seed mix
cultipack or don't depends on you.
why clover mix on top of soil?
do the rain dance (please film and post)

Reasons for my comments are the buffalo system. If you spray existing weeds/plants that will kill them out more than likely. If you leave them standing and plant the oats ect. the oats and stuff will come up protected by the native grasses/weeds from birds etc. and the grasses/weeds will hold moisture for the new seed bed. If you disk plow and harrow you are releasing lot's of nitrogen in the soil that the plants will need and you will have to put back with the fertilizer.

If you could break the stalk on the grass/weed with a crimper the existing grass/weed bed before spraying that would be even better. Once the stalk is broken it will die. If you can't build you a crimper then go ahead and mow but mow 4-6 or 8" if you can, it will provide cover and moisture for the new seeds.

Remember you're not planting grass for cows or goats etc. The animals you're planting for is deer or ungulates right. They by nature are browsers and "pickers" :-)

Go ahead and tell me I'm crazy. When the winter crop is done, simply crimp it again and plant a summer blend. The idea is to build on the base you start with and don't let go of that nitrogen and other good things in the soil. Eagle seed sells soybeans that are for DEER!. Means if they get any rain at all they will get head high :-) and deer love them.

Let me know if you think I'm crazy.

Matt
This is what I will be doing and I don't think you're crazy. It seems to be the simplest method when you don't have much for implements. I'm planning to spray my plots, then throw seed, then maybe create some sort of drag to knock over the vegetation that is dead to create a thatch.

I'll be using elbon rye to give me a better thatch for the next years spring and fall plots.

I'll report how it goes on my ranch thread.
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:04 AM   #30
sweldo73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFAbowhunter View Post
This is what I will be doing and I don't think you're crazy. It seems to be the simplest method when you don't have much for implements. I'm planning to spray my plots, then throw seed, then maybe create some sort of drag to knock over the vegetation that is dead to create a thatch.

I'll be using elbon rye to give me a better thatch for the next years spring and fall plots.

I'll report how it goes on my ranch thread.
You probably already know this, but hogs (if you've got them) and birds can get a good portion of your seed even under the thatch, so over-seeding is usually recommended. Not sure what rate, though.
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Old 08-23-2018, 02:10 PM   #31
gingib
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No point in spraying if you are going to disk. Disking will kill it anyways. Just doing extra work.

Beware for spring weeds out the A
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