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    #16
    Originally posted by coachmas View Post
    Moved into our house (4.5 acres of mostly sand)a year ago this November. Preemergent applied in Feb and missed late spring. Been hitting them every couple months with killer. I lost the battle in july and they are everywhere except an area in my back yard wher the kids play and we pull them up. I’m going hard on them with preemwrgent starting in Feb. Coach
    What pre emergent are you using Coach?

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      #17
      Just thought of the pre-emergent I used--AMAZE

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        #18
        Best thing I’ve found is to have your grass thick enough to choke them out. I put out some crab grass seed last spring and it took off. Had about 1/4 the stickers this year. I normally wouldn’t go the crab grass route, but I was desperate. We had thick Bermuda grass, but the stickers were always there. That being said, our yard was just fenced off pasture. Lol.


        Skinny

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          #19
          I used pendulum 3.3 EC liquid. Mixed and sprayed from 15 gallon sprayer.

          I believe there is also a granular version.

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            #20
            Irrigated and non-irrigated turfgrass covers over 63,000 mi2 of land area in the United States, which is greater than that of every other irrigated crop. Texas is becoming an increasingly urbanized state with nearly 88 percent of Texans now living in urban areas. Houston, the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex, and San Antonio rank among the 12... Read More →

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              #21
              Wear shoes.....


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                #22
                I've been using Prowl pre-emergent. Use a high nitrogen fertilizer also. Pull up as many as you can, or bag clippings. Takes a while, but I'm making headway.

                Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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                  #23
                  Been fighting them for almost 60 years. Here are the bullet points I know:
                  1. Success requires multiple approaches. There is no Silver Bullet available to cover all situations.
                  2. Sandburs like poor soil. Enrich your soil and good grasses will BEGIN to choke them out but it will seem like forever.
                  3. The only post-emergent that I know works is a fine particle that mixes with water, available only at farm/ranch stores called “Pastora”. It is expensive but kills the green plant best PRIOR to the burrs forming on the stem. It doesn’t bother Bermuda grass much but will kill Bahia and St Augustine grass.
                  4. Hoeing them up helps ONLY if the burrs are still green and not loose on the stem. Once they get dry and loose on the stem, any movement of the plant causes them to drop to the ground. Dry burr plants at my place get BURNT with a portable pear burner. And yes, it is satisfying to watch the bastages burn!!!
                  5. Performing a controlled burn on your ground will reduce this years crop very well. Sandburs are so hard to eliminate because the dried burr can set dormant in your soil for over 10 YEARS waiting for good moisture to sprout.

                  Good luck!
                  Last edited by Tejas Wildlife; 10-19-2017, 02:34 AM.

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                    #24
                    I dont think you can eliminate them 100%, but you should be able to control them with a good stand of grass. I fertilize my yard twice a year but never use a weed and feed. I also put peat moss on my yard in the spring which is good for the carpet grass. I use a push mower with a bag system.
                    I had a sprinkler system put in years ago and it covers 1/3 of an acre around the house. My house sits on 5 acres, the rest of my yard is grass burs and native grass. I shred it once a month. I like to keep the grass burs out there for a theft deterrent system.

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                      #25
                      I don't know how old that article is, but MSMA is not on the market anymore and has not been for 7 years. A few weeks ago the the Producers Co-Op Sandbur control class, they said it is illegal to put it out on pastures - it is deadly to horses and goats, and can be toxic to cattle. Furthermore, the OP said his lawn is St. Augustine. MSMA will kill St. Augustine.

                      OP - there are several options as far as pre-emergents and post emergent for turf grasses. Some are glandular and can be mixed with fertilizer. Some are sprays. I cannot recall the names but I have it in my file at home. I'll see if I can find it and remember to post it. Perhaps the Co-op will send it to me.

                      The biggest thing - fertilize now and in the spring. Sandburs do not handle nitrogen well.

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                        #26
                        Or another way to do it. My Mom had gotten her backyard finally sticker free except on one side of the fence where they would pop up from time to time. She looked over the fence one day and saw that the neighbors yard was covered in them. She asked them multiple times to take car of it. Long story short they didn't and she may or may not have gotten a 2 gallon sprayer and sprayed kerosene all over that side. she has not had a sticker problem for a couple of years now.

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                          #27
                          Granular surflan can be purchased at site1/john deere landscapes or online. pendulum and add a 2,4-d supposedly is offered online and would be another option. I've had my applicator's license since 2001 and these would be my top 2 pics.

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                            #28
                            Pre-emergent is really the only way to get rid of grass burrs permanently.

                            Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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                              #29
                              Does this stuff work or is it snake oil?
                              Contains multiple active ingredients to provide excellent broadleaf weed control in established warm-season and cool-season grasses. Weeds controlled include dandelion, chickweed, clover, dollar weed and spurge.

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                                #30
                                Ok, I got my notes from the class.
                                The key points to sand bur control are - dense grass is best control so fertilize to keep tall grass healthy. Sand burs prefer the sun and tall, thick grass keeps the sun off sand burs.

                                For lawns:
                                Pre-emergents are Pendulum, Amaze and Surflan.
                                Pendulum - active ingredient is pendimethalin. It needs 1/2" of rain within 30 days. That is the key to this pre-emergent. Put it out in February - March. This is the same as Prowl H2O for pastures. It is key that it comes in contact with the soil. If you can't get contact with the soil, do not use it. You will put out 2-3 pounds per 1000 sq feet. 4.6 pound for long term effectiveness. One bag will treat 15-20,000 sq feet.

                                Amaze - really good for flower beds. Put mulch over the top of it.

                                Surflan - primarily used on turf farms.

                                Preen - Organic - This is corn gluten meal. Put out 20# per 1000 sq feet and apply monthly.

                                Post emergent - Image and Atrizine.
                                Image - takes 3-4 weeks to see results. Often you will need 2 applications. It will kill bahia and nut grass, too.

                                Atrizine 4L - apply with a pump sprayer only, not a hose end sprayer. Pre and post emergerent. It will damage turf grass but not kill it. Do not use on alkaline soil.

                                For pastures
                                -
                                Prowl H20 - Pendiumethalin - Pre-emergent for bermuda grass pasture - Put of as close to but after Feb 15. and before early March. There used to be a 45 day grazing restriction but there is a supplemental label that removed it. Must have rain on it within 14 days, must have soil contact when sprayed.

                                Pastora - Nicosulfuron and Metsulfuron - post emergent on bermuda grass only. It is key to spray when plants are 2-3" tall, usually mid April, but could be earlier or later. Do no use with annual grasses. No grazing restrictions.

                                Plateau / Panoramic - Imazapic - pre and post emergent. May stunt bermuda grass for a month. This is good to put out immediately (2-3 days) after haying or shredding. Prefer to spray at 4-12 oz per acre, 12 oz will knock out bermuda for more than 30 days.

                                Roundup Power Max - glyhosate - post emergent - immdieately after 1st baling at 8-11 oz per acre. 1 gal per acre will kill bermuda grass. There is no soil activity with glyphosate, so it must contact the leaf of the plant.


                                Good luck!

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