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Which spine for my longbow?

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    Which spine for my longbow?

    I'm a little embarrassed to ask, as I've had input already, but I had a couple of different answers. I also want to make sure I understand...

    For my 44lb longbow, that I'm pulling about 38lb at my 25" DL, in looking at the spine charts do I gauge it on the bow weight or my pulling weight?

    I'm thinking it's on my pulling weight, so with a 175gr field point = 25-30 or 30-35 on a wood arrow (depends which chart you look at...), or 500 on a carbon?

    I spent an inordinate amount of time on arrow selection on my compound... Here we go again, lol!

    Also, to further complicate matters, I may get a few lbs shaved off in the future. If I have to get new arrows at that time, then so be it.

    Thanks folks.

    #2
    I don't see a .500 spine working out. I would think at least .600 spine. I am not sure, at that low of a draw weight that I would want that much weight up front either. Not saying you can't do it but a lot of point weight will really slow your arrow down.

    Bisch

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      #3
      OK, Bisch, I'm all ears. I'm just going on some pointers I've been given. I really want to understand the physics of it to the best of my ability, with my overloaded pea brain.

      The arrows I would like to get are the Gold Tip 1535's. Someone said to get 3555.
      Last edited by Lynda; 01-20-2013, 09:41 PM.

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        #4
        Tuning a trad bow is one of the hardest parts of dealiong with these things! I don't have a lot of experience tuning bows that light but I know lots of people shooting .500 spine arrows well up into the high 40's range. To me, the best way to tell for sure, is to paper tune. Paper tune just like you would with wheels. The tear in the paper will tell you whether your nock point needs to go up or down and whether your arrow spine is weak or stiff. You do need to have a fairly consistent release for paper tuning to be reliable.

        The best thing to do would be for you to get with a trad shooter in your area who knows how to tune and have them show you the ropes. It will greatly lessen the learning and frustration curve!

        Bisch

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          #5
          Shhhhhhh don't tell my Longbow that, it shoots what ever I've got at the time. It don't know it's suppose to be finicky.

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            #6
            @Bisch, OK, that sounds like a good plan. I had a basic understanding of paper tuning, but the new USA Archery book has an easy to understand breakdown. I can even make a stand if I need to.

            As for getting with others, yes I plan to. I'm in no rush to get this fine tuned, although I will be practicing for muscle conditioning. I'll be shooting 3D with my wheels again this year. Maybe next year I'll get down with the trad 3D.

            Thanks for your help!

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              #7
              Originally posted by Greywolf in Hawaii View Post
              Shhhhhhh don't tell my Longbow that, it shoots what ever I've got at the time. It don't know it's suppose to be finicky.
              Bwahaha. Your secret's safe with us.

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                #8
                I ran your numbers through Stu's and it looks like 1535 GT full length with 175gr up front will work but they will be very heavy for your setup at 12.2 GPP. I would recommend studying Stu's Calculator and it will get you close JMO.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by caughtandhobble View Post
                  I ran your numbers through Stu's and it looks like 1535 GT full length with 175gr up front will work but they will be very heavy for your setup at 12.2 GPP. I would recommend studying Stu's Calculator and it will get you close JMO.
                  Yes - this is what I had been running with originally on your rec., but got a different answer recently.

                  Here's the good news... I managed to snag half a doz for a good price right here on TBH.


                  This will be a great start. Gotta start somewhere, right?!

                  Thanks Ben! btw, have been taking your recurve to my classes to show the students. It's been great to expand their horizons with more options to consider.

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                    #10
                    How is the window cut on your bow? if it's to or past center those will work great out of your bow. I add a bit to my risers now and cut 1/8th past center and everything flies great out of it.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Greywolf in Hawaii View Post
                      How is the window cut on your bow? if it's to or past center those will work great out of your bow. I add a bit to my risers now and cut 1/8th past center and everything flies great out of it.
                      Excuse my ignorance... You mean the horizontal depth of the shelf in the riser? Looks pretty centered to me.

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                        #12
                        If that helps.

                        That's good to know on the arrows. I'm super excited... I defaulted to some yellow feathers because that's all that was left, but another buyer agreed to let me have the red ones to match my bow. Weeee.
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